k321 rebuild
 

I am going to be off work for a couple weeks to hunt rabbitts but wanted to also take some time to find out what the rap may be that I posted about earleir. My question is, apx how much does a rebuild cost on a 14hp, and apx how long would it take. I know that there are all kind of variables in that question, but just looking for ruff ideas.
Thanks

Are you going to do any of the work, or farm it all out and have it done by a shop?

I was going to do, unless it needs bored out, or the crank needs work. I have a well equiped shop. I'm not qiute sure what the rap is, I hope it may just need a rod cap or some replacable bolt on part that I can go to the dealer and get, I has never used oil so I'm just not sure what I'm looking for.

I rebuilt the 12hp motor in my 128. I had to have the block bored .010 over and the crank pin cut .010 under. Mostly after market parts were used except for the governor pieces and the rod and head gasket. I have about $400 in my rebuild.

I just did my K341, here's the approximate numbers:

Stens rebuild kit, ebay: $125
Machining, bore and crank: $105
Carb kit: $15
Kohler head gasket: $15
Muffler clamp: $4
Governor gear, shaft, and bushing: $40
Camshaft shims: $9
Oil: $5
New head bolts: $5
Valve breather filter: $5
Carb gasket: $5

That's about it as far as I recall.

CC1650dave, what did you have machined on the crank, did it need a different rod cap after machining?

I had a K series that the balance gears were knocking, I just removed them and the engine was fine.

CHWNY
I put a heavy load on the engine while pulling a Brinly plow and thats when the noise started. It had been running fine up to that point. What causes them to come loose? What were the symptoms with your noise.

Yeah, I had the crank journal turned to .010" under. When you order your rebuild kit, you specify that you'll need a .010" under rod.

I think the bearings are too small for the load and don't seem to get enough oil, when you take the oil pan off you will be able to wiggle them if bad. You should take the crank out to remove them! At least remove the rod cap to check the bearing surface there. One gear will come out easy, You could break the other one out w/cold chisel and BFH, not the safest way but worked for me.
My engine would have a slight knock; like a rod @ throttle up and under load. There is much debate about removing the gears, however in my case there was no real difference, slight bit more vibration no more than my Harley flat head though.