1450 Front Axle
 

The steering has a lot of play. One tierod joint needs replaced and the front axle has a lot of front to back play. I have never removed the axle of a Cub before. Is there a bushing in there that could need replaced? Also the one steering rod that goes under the oil pan rub on the drain plug sometimes. At some point I will pull the steering shaft and do a super upgrade to it. I also found a cheap axle from a 782 with the big spindles. If it would fit my 1450 that would be a nice upgrade.Thanks

The bushings are welded to the frame, but usually don't wear out. The C-channel that the axle is pinned into spreads out over time, and needs to be squeezed back together. If you remove the engine and front axle, you can get a 3/4" bolt to squeeze the C-channel back together, and then put the axle back in. Better yet, you could put in a 3/4" bolt, but you have to machine down the head so it clears the oil pan. That's odd that the tie rod rubs on the drain plug. If you could post a picture, that would be great. It sounds like something is bent.

Get these for tie rod ends...they'll never wear out. 60645K441 at www.mcmaster.com

The 782 front axle will fit, but all you'd need is the spindles and wheels...the axle casting is identical.

Here are some pics. Thanks Matt G.:American Flag 1:

That just doesn't seem right. It's been years since I've messed with a Q/L so maybe Matt will confirm.

Thanks these are what I need!

I had to redo the front axle on my 149 a while back; it had so much play in it that it was almost unsafe to drive. What I found when a buddy and I tore it apart was the front "C" frame bushing was completely gone, and the hole was badly wallowed out. We also found that sometime in the 149's life my dad had replaced the axle pivot pin with a plain bolt that didn't have the grease relief cut into it; luckily the axle pivot pin hole was still ok. The "C" channel the axle fits up in was spread apart a little too.

This is what we did to fix it, it's not factory original so if you're looking for originality, this is not your fix.

We pulled the "C" channel back together using a large bolt and washers.

We centered a shaft collar with a set screw the best we could over the "C" channel pivot pin bushing hole and welded it in place. We did the same for the other bushing. Since the collars were a little thicker than the original bushings, the new pivot pin I had bought was not long enough for our liking so my friend turned a longer one out on his lathe. We reassembled the axle ……. No more slop!

I also rebuilt the steering gearbox and put some new tie rod ends on at the same time. The 149 steers nice again!

superduty5.9
I just went out to the garage and looked at my 149 and 169. Mine rides right in front of the drain plug. It would hit if the motor was forward or the axle was back. If i remember right the 1450 i had looked just like these. Here are a few pictures. Dont know if it will help or not.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...TieRods002.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...TieRods003.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...TieRods004.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...TieRods005.jpg

Like Matt G. said mabey the C-Channel just needs squeezed back together.

Superdudy Your engine doesn't mount solid so it will not be like the 149 or 169.

Check the distance from the bottom of the frame to the top of the tie rod and you should have about 2 1/2 inches. If you don't you could have a bent front cross member. Not very likely but I have seen one that was bent up.

The distance from the top of the tie rod to the drain plug should be about 1/2 inch.

If the frame to tie rod distance is correct then you have bad ISO mounts.

I think I found the problem, I have 2 1/2" between top of tierod and frame. Must be bad rubbers. Thanks.:beerchug:

3 kids later......Now I know why!!!:bash2: