1450 problems
 

I am having engine problems with that 1450 along with others. I'm glad I picked up that 122, thats what Ive been using as the 1450 has had one issue after another. Are they known for problems? Anyway, It wont run. I was mowing and it acted like it was running out of gas. Gas was fine. I rebuilt the carburator with kit#25 757 023 from IH dealer. While I was at it I checked the timming. I used the static timming method that Matt had posted which brings other questions, I understand that the volt meter set on ohms is checking continuity across the points and when they start to open you will lose it and the s should be in the window. But I don't know what is ment by "moving the point gap ever so slightly to either side". I am rotating the engine to the left when you would be sitting on the seat. I do this by turning the key on and engagining the elec pto switch,(plug is out of engine) Are these engines timed by the key in the flywheel and @ TDC the points should be open? When I static timed the S was nowhere in sight, but it did start and run poorly and backfired and then quit and now won't try to fire. The point gap seems to change on this engine each time I check it. Should I just get another set of points? If I go to Advance Auto Parts and get points tommorrow what aftermarket points will work. I used a point file on the ones in it and don't see anythimg wrong with them, they look new. What other common problems can I look for? Sorry about all the questions.

By 'moving the point gap slightly to either side' you are rotating the flywheel back and forth a bit to verify that you do, in fact, have the "S" mark centered in the window when the points are just starting to break. The timing is set by having the points open at 20 degrees BTDC, and the timing marks on the flywheel are kept in the proper position because of the flywheel key.

If it fires/tries to run, you don't need new points. You say the "S" mark is nowhere in sight when you time it...that means it isn't timed correctly and therefore is going to run like crap or not at all. If you get it timed right per the instructions I made, it will run. If the point gap keeps changing, you are either not getting them tight, or you're changing the gap when you tighten the screw. Also, I doubt you'll find points at Advance Auto Parts. NAPA, maybe, but a Kohler or CC dealer will have them, but once again- I don't think you need them at this point.

By 'moving the point gap slightly to either side' you are rotating the flywheel back and forth a bit to verify that you do, in fact, have the "S" mark centered in the window when the points are just starting to break. The timing is set by having the points open at 20 degrees BTDC, and the timing marks on the flywheel are kept in the proper position because of the flywheel key.

Could you just center the S in the window and close the points and then with a meter just open them until they break without having to turn it over by hand?

No, it will be off because of the backlash in the gears between the crank and cam. And to further clarify my previous statement, you're only checking for proper timing when you are rotating the engine in the correct direction; you go backwards a bit so you don't have to turn the engine twice in the normal direction.

Thanks Matt, am I turning in the right direction, if you were sitting on the seat I am rotating it to the left? Oh. and I forgot to ask, what is the "T" mark used for?

The T is top dead center.

To ensure your turning the motor the right direction bump the starter and watch which way it turns over.

While I was trying to get this timed, I noticed while turning the engine over by hand the 4, 1/4" bolts that attatch the driveshaft to engine at what you guys call the rag joint are all backed out and loose. I looked in the service manual and can't seem to find a teardown section for that joint, could someone point me in the right direction. It looks to me like it may be a job to get at. If the bolt holes are shot, whats my options?
thanks