Cub 1200 3-pin driven/flex disc
 

Picked up a nicer Cub 1200 recently to mow with. Ran good, but it had a bad 3-pin flex (clutch) disc at time of puchase.

Replaced the disc with a new one, lubed up the pilot bearings and saw no other obvious problems, but it failed after about 3hrs use. The thin backing plate appears to have fractured.

Questions--

Is this a common problem with the 3-pin flex style plates? Typical causes?
Does anyone make a solid-plate version?

Thanks--

Check your ISO mounts, if they are worn they will take out the clutch. It happened on my 1200.:bash2:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=12584

Thanks for the info. That's a very good thread for 1200 owners. I don't believe our motor was shaking, but it was likely sitting off-center as I did notice the lengths of exposed pins on the driver disc were not all the same--maybe a 1/4" to 3/8" variance between the three.

Going to pull the motor this week and check them out. I'm sure they're the originals. Also going to do that ISO rail mod. Will post updates as we make progress.

Also, I noticed a guy (A-1) fabs and sells solid replacement discs and ISO mounts--I'm guessing this setup may be too inflexible for general purpose (mowing lawns) use?

I wouldn't use solid mounts myself.

I agree with Duke. The original mounts lasted at least 30 years so why take a chance on the extra vibration (through the solid mounts) hurting something.:TwoCents:

Drive plates
 

I agree with Duke and SCLEVE on the mounts, but interested in the other part of the question, asking if a solid drive plate can be used in place of the flex plate design??
Thanks,
Dick

I'd also go with the Cub Cadet mounts. :beerchug:

I've heard of it being done before but takes some mods. I have not done the mod myself.

You have to have the flex disc at the tranny end if you still have the iso mounts. That engine is going to move and you have to account for it.

I think if you redo the iso mounts and the driveshaft at the same time you should be back to good.

It lasted a long time the first time around and it should last a long time again.




Randy

update
 

Okay--we have the clutch out. Couple of questions--

Looking at the pictures,

--Is the hole in the "fork" lever supposed to be significantly larger than the shank on the throwout bearing? It seems overly large and I'm not understanding how the fork stays centered in this arrangement.

--Having dealt with automotive clutches in the past, I'm used to seeing the throw-out bearing attach to the fork by means of a groove, or sometimes a clip. In addition to the teaser spring, is there anything else that appears to be missing?

If anyone sees anything wrong in these pictures please post.

Thanks--

http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_0076.jpg

http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_0077.jpg