Spirol pin substitute
 

I'm a cheapskate. Plain and simple. So, without any serious intent to put anyone out of business, specifically our sponsors here at OCC, I'm sharing my substitute for the 1/4" spiral pins listed by Cub Cadet for driveshafts.

I didn't want to just use roll pins in place of spiral pins, they're a risk. So, I inserted (hammered) a 5/32" roll pin into a 1/4" roll pin which virtually doubles the thinkness of the pins which brings their shear strength closer to that of the spiral pin. Also, since both pins will still compress, I had NO trouble at all driving these "modified" pins into the 1/4" holes in my CRS driveshaft. I feel safer using these than a single roll pin.

The 5/32" pins retail at $0.23 each, the 1/4" roll pins retail for $0.31 each... The spiral pins retail for as much as $5.00 each. Cheaper, yes... and likely just as strong.

Now, if I could just find a suitable substitute for work... :bigthink: :biggrin2:

Most people buy them from Master Carr.:beerchug:

You can buy a bag of 25 1/4"x 1 1/2" coiled spirol pins from McMaster carr for about $12. I would not slam one of them larger pins in the coupling that is on the transmission end. Being a cheap skate will cost you in the long run. JUst saying.

I didn't need a bag of 25 spiral pins. I just needed a couple of them and paying $8-$10 for shipping a couple of pins is absurd.

These aren't larger pins, they're just doubled up. One inside the other, the 1/4" pin is still within the min./max. dimensions given for a 1/4" roll pin. And, they still compress as required for the hole size. I hammered the small one into the other only because it fits snugly and it doesn't greatly increase the outer diameter of the 1/4" pin.

The minimum diameter of the 1/4" roll pin is listed at .258, wall thickness is .048. Subtract the wall thickness to find the inside of the 1/4" pin is .162", the exact same measurement as the outside diameter of the 5/32" roll pin which is listed as .167" max to .162" min.

Tim they are doubled for a reason but it's your tractor and your repair when and if it fails. I hope you haven't used the silver ones from the big box stores those are not very hard.

To have any thing shipped these days, is a minimum of $8.00 to $10.00 from either UPS or FedEx. I know... I get and pay for parts shipments every day.

For such a small part (physical and monetary wise) it is better to buy locally.

Nope, these are the black ones. I guess I've not been clear enough on this whole thing. I'll try to get a picture of the pin set up and show you guys what I'm doing...

Been there....Done that. It doesn't hold up. You need to use a coil/spirol pin. A coil/spirol pin will absorb shock and vibration. A roll pin...even one doubled up will not absorb shock and vibration and will not be as strong and will fail faster.


The few pennies you think your saving will cast you more in the long run. Hydraulic pumps has pulses and vibrations. Single cylinder motors do vibrate.

I bought a bag of 25 pins and sold at least 15 to different Cub owners for a few dollars a pin.

It's your Cub....do as you want.

Funny you should say that Roland because I am a firm believer in supporting local business. Them coiled/spirol pins are not to be found in my little corner of the world. Hardware stores and tractor stores look at you like you have a third eyeball when you ask for coiled/spirol pins. Most have never heard of them. Nearest Cub dealer is 27 miles away and by the time you put $15 in the tank to make the trip I find it a better option to pay the shipping and have them on my doorstep the next day. And I have 20 to spare.

No need for photos then, sounds like you understand what I meant. Thanks for your feedback everyone. :beerchug: