First post 1200 drive clutch replacement
 

I just picked up my first Cub this weekend, a 1200. I have since found the 3 pin flange has come apart and looks like I need a clutch disc too due to the egg shaped holes. I couldn't find anything online referring to how to disassemble the clutch assembly. Any help?
Also, how do I determine the year of the tractor?
Thanks

:Welcome2:

You'll need to download the manuals for your 1200. If you want hard copies of the manuals site sponser Binder Books at the top of every page has hard copies of the manuals. It's cheaper then printing out the manuals.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4644

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4670

:WWP:

Thanks, I had found the OM but didn't know about the wide frame to find the SM. Looks pretty straight forward to remove the shaft. Does the pilot hub usually need replacing? Looks like I should replace the ISO mounts too? From what I can see the pressure plate hubs look to be good still.
I'll grab pics. Hours show 120, so no clue if accurate, or 720 up. Brake pad shows no wear, and doesn't appear to have ever had anything on the rear lift arm.
I was buying Sears Suburban stuff and he added this was for sale, thought it was a good deal, but parts add up quick.

Not saying anything bad about the sear cub I think you made a great choice on the 1200.:beer2: Some others have some great ways to tell if the ISO mounts need to be replaced. Once you get your pics posted that will help us out. I would say it's got more then 120 hours as they keep rolling over. Once you get this done you'll be good for another 20 years!

To help aid in the repair of your clutch,you should try and build you a clutch disassembly tool. I made my own and it works great. I can taake measurements of it so you can build your own if interested..

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=2313

Here is a set of drawings for a clutch spring compressor I made.

Even if the pressure plates 'look' good from the outside, they probably need truing up on a lathe. If you are replacing the friction disc, you need to anyway so that the whole area of the clutch is being used and so you don't wear the friction disc unevenly. I would also replace the main spring, teaser spring, and throwout bearing while you are in there so you don't have to do it again.

I would replace the iso-mounts while you are in there and perform the cradle mod (do a search for it or look in the tech library) so you don't destroy the new clutch. Bad engine mounts will wreck the clutch in a hurry.

BignastyGS, well I may just fit in here fine ;) I also have a few older JD's and around 50 DB's, walkers and riders.
Here are pics of the 1200.

My connection bytes tonight will try again in the morning

You have a nice looking 1200! :beerchug:

Thanks, looks like the clutch parts will cost more than the tractor did.