more electrical issues
 

okay, everything worked before I replaced the wiring harness but it looked very brittle and decayed so I decided to fix something that wasn't broken... so to speak...

Removing the old wiring harness caused me to break the old neutral safety switch and...

replacing the wiring harness made me realize I had the wrong ignition switch...

The switches came in today! and after hooking them up, I still have no power to the starter when I turn the key yet...

rapidly nearing :bash2:

james

James

I just finish replacing the wire harness, solenoid and ignition switch in a 126.
The back side of you switch should have S-B-I. You need to make sure the orange wire goes to the S terminal. The green wire goes to the B terminal. The blue wire goes to the I terminal. The terminal(s) can be change by inserting a small screw driver in the end the wire comes out. There is a tap on the end of the wire that I lift the up some so the wire stays in the plug.

My wire harness did not have the wire that runs between the solenoid and amp gage. The wire set up I made has a 10 inch long wire with the needed connections on it. Make sure you connect this wire to the side of the soloniod that has the wire (positive) coming from the battery.

The wire diagram from this site and terminal ends on the voltage regulator may not be in the same location. The 126 I just finish had them in a different order. I would double check that too. Make sure your grounds (base of voltage regulator and base of the starter-generator). The amp gage connection points should have a + and -....make sure the right wires are connected to the terminals.

Hope this helps.

they seem to be connected correctly...

the amp gauge doesn't seem to have - and + anywhere... earlier today i hooked them up both ways... i know the wrong way just makes the gauge move backwards...

i'll sleep on it and check it again in the morning...

thanks!

i did notice that the voltage regulator is bigger than the one that came stock...

however, it worked before i replaced the harness...

activate the things you know should run off 12v. take a wire from batt + to say, solenoid coil. it should trigger and run starter. Then, to coil + should have 12 v at - side. then backstep to where you lose 12v . Its nerve racking, but if you have those 2 things with separate feeds, check from ignition switch out. Forget the color codes. Go for the correct target endpoint connections, and make double sure they connect.

Would we be correct in assuming that you are working on a 147..??

Are the switches you ordered in, the genuine and correct Cub Cadets parts for your model..??

My new switches are correct for a 147

The power flow.......

Battery------> Amp Gauge---------> Ignition Switch ----------> Neutral Safety Switch--------> Starter Solenoid.

With a Temporary Long Jumper Wire, connected to the Battery Positive terminal, you can start at Amp Gauge and touch each in & out terminals of the above devices to see where the fault lies. This is in consideration that the Ignition Switch is in the Start position and the Neutral Safety Switch is depressed.

well, now what the heck is supposed to be depressing the neutral safety switch? it seems my old neutral safety switch was in an already "depressed" state. i was wondering how the heck it was supposed to work...

there's a missing piece off my tractor obviously... what does it look like?

i'm starting to think my solenoid isn't working... even though my tractor started up with the "wrong" switch before i began the re-wiring process... not 100% sure how to tell...