125 flywheel or drive cup help needed
 

The dowel in the front of my drive shaft broke the other day. I was looking all over for a 1/4" x 1 1/2" dowel.My lousy local Cub dealer had nothing and didn't even know if he could get one, and neither of my local hardware stores had anything. I bought a grade 8 1/4" bolt and went home to see what I could do. I found what looks like the remains of a brass door hinge pin under the tractor where it stopped driving (luckily just outside and up hill of the barn door) and some more of it om the pan under the drive shaft.
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...5/DSC06558.jpg
The shaft and cup are worn enough that I was able to get the 1/4" bolt ib there and put a nut on it.
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...5/DSC06562.jpg
The tractor drives OK now but I know that there are some parts that have to be replaced. The drive cup and flywheel have a bunch of play in them. Click on the picture for a video. http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_MOV06559.jpg

What parts do I need here and how involved a job is this gonna be? I figure that I will need the drive plate, flywheel drive, maybe a flywheel, and drive shaft? I am not clear on how I would get to these parts either. Split the tractor? Remove the engine? Please let me know what I an getting into here.
Thanks

I don't like using the bolt to fix a problem that will only get worse...The Drive pin and cup are available at one of our sponsors.

Should be able to get to the broken parts by unbolting the motor from the frame. You may have enough slack in your fuel line, wiring harness, and choke/throttle cable to slide the engine forward about 3/4-1" to get the drive shaft to drop out of the pin cup. You will need to remove the mesh cover that attaches to the frame that covers this area to make accessing the offending parts easier. If anything is holding you up from sliding the engine forward, just unhook those items. If you want to remove the entire drive shaft you will have remove the engine and unbolt it at the hydro pump from underneath the tractor, remove 2 bolts from the flex disk.

Mc master carr has the harden pins. I might have extras. I'll look for ya. Send me your addy and if I have 1 I'll send it to you.
Mike

I've replaced some of what your refuring to on my 125 and 123, it's not that bad. I found it easier to just pull the engine. Undo the throttle and choke cable at the carb. Remove the wire to the coil, and the one's to the S.G.
Next thing I did was to disconect the PTO rod at the turnbuckle followed by the four engine bolts and it makes it easier to take the muffler out too. Oh, and take the two bolts out that hold the regulator to the front to get it out of the way.
Pull the engine forward to disconect it from the driveshaft and pull it out. You may have to wiggle it a little, but it will pop out.
And I too could get you the the pins if need be, my dealer has them on hand, as well as all the parts you would need.
I went to another cub dealer in another town, and they had nothing on hand for these old tractors, everything had to be ordered, sure glad I've got a good dealer near by with most parts on the shelf.
Good luck, it's not really to bad once you get into it.

Wow, and I though mine 129 was bad - that's a lot o play there!

Is there an upgrade for him that would help eliminate the problem in the future?

I can't remember where I saw this, but I read that the WF models can use the dual flex-coupling driveshaft out of the Quietline model. Could that also be adapted for a NF model?

I don't think anyone mentioned this, but if you continue to use your worn cup, you will continue to break pins. You need to replace the worn cup.

AJ

Call Rich at Patton Acres. I believe he has new steel drive cups, driveshafts, with the pins. You could get the pins from Mcmaster carr.

Thanks for the help. I guess I'll have to slide the engine forward and see what I need. My local Cub dealer sucks! They were a JD dealer until only a few years ago. They have just about nothing in stock and now they want to charge me for the shipping to them! Whatever I need, I will have to buy elsewhere. I hate the idea of getting into something like this and not being able to get parts quickly and easily. I'd rather not have the tractor in pieces for weeks waiting for parts.

As we all knew it would, the 1/4" bolt either broke or fell out today. This time at was across the street in an empty lot that I have been clearing. I put another bolt in there so I could drive it home. Once back in the barn, I decided that I would take some time to look a little deeper into the problem. I couldn't sllide the engine forward enough to get the drive shaft out so I went ahead and took the hood and grill off, disconnected the choke and throttle cables, and the wire harness and lifted the engine out.
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...0617111546.jpg
Once I got it all out I found that the bolt that tightens the drive cup to the flywheel had come loose! Only the pressure if the drives haft and the pin were holding it all together! The threads on the nut are ruined and the threads on the flywheel are a little bunged up on the end. Just enough that I can't get my new 5/8 18 nylock nut started. I need a thread chaser to clean it up. I have a friend who may have one, otherwise, I guess I'll have to take the engine to a machine shop and have somebody do it for me. The drive shaft is now a little thinner where it was spinning in the hub and the hole has been rounded or rather ovaled out. The drive cup and plate don't look that bad, I'm not sure what should be replaced.
How do I get the drive shaft out? Do I work from under the tractor, or do I take some sheet metal off and work from the top?
Thanks.