Sleeve hitch
 

I bought a hydro lift hitch on ebay for a wide frame cub and I cannot figure out how it is supposed to attach to my tractor. I have an 1811 hydro and it has a bunch of holes on the frame rails at the rear but the obvious holes are way too big for the pivot bar to fit in. And the bracket has holes in it that do not match any on my rear cover plate. Can someone please send a picture of you hitch and how it attaches?I figures that any wide frame cub would accept any wide frame hitch. I guess I was wrong. Also, I am going to install an oil pressure gage on my 1811 and was wondering if the sender for the idiot light is just an on/off switch or a true sender. Does anyone know? Also, what is the diameter of the threaded part of the oil switch? I love this beast and would appreciate any help with it. I just found another post with the same question about the exact same hitch. It looks like the one I bought is for an older model and does not fit my 1811. I have a four bolt bottom tranny plate not the three hole model and the picture from the other post shows bushings welded inside of the frame rails that match the diameter of the piviot shaft. Anyone looking for an older wide frame hitch? I would be glad to trade for one that I can use.

As for the pivot rod, you will need two Frankenstein bolts to hold the cast lift on with. You will see in my picture what looks like a large bolt on each side and a nut that holds each on from the inside of the frame. Each bolt has a pivot point for the lift to fit onto. I am not sure if the back of your 1811 looks like my 782 but if it does this is how everything fits. The lift bar that attaches to the hydro lift is a straight bar with a hole at each end.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...2/DSC01836.jpg

Lift bar installation:
Attachment 10260

three point hitch
 

Thanks for the great picture. I found the bolts that you mentioned and ordered them from one of our sponsors above. He also told me that due to the aluminum rear end that I would need to order a bracket that goes under the axles and ties into the bolts there as well as the tranny rear plate. He said that Extreme motors makes it. I guess it shows that the newer these things got the less beef there was in them. Once again thanks for the quick response and picture.
Rudy

Glad I could be of help. Yes even tho it may not have the cast iron like some of the older ones, it is still 100X better than most GT's sold today. Just my opinion. I would love to have an 1811 too.

Frankenstien bolts wont work with your 1811. Your going to have to weld a plate on each side. The holes are like an inch and the bolts wont work. I made the plates and made a lower bracket that wraped around the side of the rear. I'll try to find pictures.

Frankenstien bolts
 

I think we are talking about two different type of bolts. The ones I am referring to are these sold by one of our sponsors and he calls them Frankenstien bolts. They are the same diameter as the large hole you are referring to in the rear frame rails. They have just enough thread on them to accept a nut on the inside of each rail and then about one inch of the bolt has been necked down to the diameter of the hole in the casting that normally has a pivot rod through it. I have included a picture of the bolts so that it may be a little clearer. I also bought a lower bracket made for aluminum plates that ties into the axle bolts as well as the rear tranny cover bolts due to the inherent weakness of aluminum over steel.. It came from extreme motorworks.

Some people mistake the frame bolts that the mule drive slides onto as Frankenstein bolts. They are much smaller in size.

Frankenstien bolts installed
 

I got the two Frankenstien bolts today and put them in in about three minutes. Here are a couple of pictures of them. I got them from Patton's above and he gave me a $5 break on them.

Looking good. Now all you need is the lift bar and the lower two point. :beerchug:
Also as a note, that pin is set for a tiller. The hole at the end should be horizontal for plows and the lift straps.

lift pin
 

Is it possible to just pull the cotter pin and rotate it 90 degrees and drill another hole? I plan on using it to lift most of the time. If anyone has a good plan for a lift device I sure would like to see it.
Thanks,
Rudy