ROOKIE..LTX1045, No START
 

Hello Folks...New Rookie here.
Product: LTX1045
Engine: 20hp Kohler Courage.

"No Start" issue...Here we go!!!
Last October, mowing, running fine..here some metallic noises...shuts down..
Initially thought it was electrical..again, ROOKIE:)
..New solenoid.
..New Starter.
Investigate more, removed valve cover, discovered broken, fractured rocker arm on Ex.side..Investigate further, discover bent push rod, look through push rod tunnel..no push rod lever:(
So, I remove engine cover,(Lid??) to expose cam gears and the fun stuff..
Drain oil..make sump(oil res) shinny and clean!!
Replace Ex side came gear because the rotating finger was chipped and scared from the push rod stabbing it (exposed cam from broken rod lever)..
Replaced cam gear in proper position(New)
Replaced new push rod lever.
Installed new gasket for cover(Lid)??and socked everything up nicely.
Replace Fly wheel(new) because when I rapped on it to remove from the shaft, three magnets broke free from the wall and wanted a new one rather than trying to re adhere, locking key is in position and fly wheel and shaft are ONE!!..at this point I've been double checking all my work, then triple checking, then, when through, double checking.....Ok..
Replaced new valve, new rocker arms, new push rod, new head, new valve cover gasket...set my rockers to correct spec..Button everything up..replace new plug...I DO HAVE SPARK...fresh charge on battery...Turn Key!!!!!
No start!!! she cranks strong and beautiful and healthy like she wants to fire, but won't...installed new starter module, just cause...was thinking a fuel issue??
I removed fuel line going into carb,...good,strong flow...
I spray engine start into carb, not even a giggle or temporary start,..just crank and crank and bang!!!loud single backfire...My gas in the tank is old(six months sitting) I have new gas on hand and and new carb.kit...I would like to flush the tank and lines(fuel), replace fuel filter and install new carb.kit..
All new parts: Exh.side Cam gear
Exh.side push rod lever
Push rods
Rocker arms
Exh.side valve
Fly wheel
Starter Mod.(have spark)
Solenoid
Spark plug
I don't think this old, diluted watered down gas is igniting, that's why I would like to do the flush, maybe the gross, gummy fuel is complicating the function of the carb. delivery system as well. that's why I would like to replace the carb as well...
Are there any electrical issues or target suspect switches or connectors I can disconnect and re-connect???? I haven't messed with OR have ever had an issue with wiring or connections but, am certainly open to ideas!!!!
Again....Strong, healthy, clean crank....but no fire, she wants to but won't...But why cant I get a temporary run and hiccup with a blast in that carb.choke flap....This is why I'm here today folks.
Again, I'm a rookie and wanted to exhaust all my sources and replace all parts I was running into with each step with NEW parts...parts that did a good job, but their life expectancy was up...THANK YOU TO ALL WHO HAVE TAKEN THE TIME TO READ THIS..any and ALL ideas are welcome..
Thank you again for all your time you have invested in reading this sad, pathetic boy's tractor troubles story...Thank you folks..
Respectfully,
Andrew:bash2:

When you installed the cam gears, did you align the timing marks as directed on page 66, bottom right, of the manual at this link.....

http://resources.kohler.com/power/ko..._690_01_EN.pdf

Yes Sir Ironman....Aligned shaft at 12:00, key facing me..Right side gear aligned at 4 o'clock position with gear dimple marks matched with shaft dimple marks..other side as well in the 8 o'clock position...I turn the flywheel manually when adjusted the rockers and still fill that pocket of resistance for compression...thank you so much for your time....need more ideas!!!!

OK, I think my next step would be to re-check the rocker arms (.005 intake, .007 exhaust, at TDC). If they are good, next I would pull the flywheel to make sure the key didn't shear when you got that "big bang". And by the way, when you put the flywheel back on, the crank and flywheel hole should be crystal clean (i.e. no grease, etc.)

first off, you do not beat on a flywheel to get it off!!
You use the correct puller!
And the flywheel nut should be torqued to the correct spec when re-installed.

Will Do... I'll follow up when completed and give you an update...thanks for your time..

Alright Ironman...well, I doubled checked flywheel and key, both are mated to the shaft as needed and should be..I doubled checked the specs for the rockers, all secure with set bolts and inner T15's are snug...I did check my seat safety switch, function of preasure button was obstructed from a dead mouse and a nest..removed nest and mouse, disconnected switch..cleaned, button has good action and function...installed new carburetor, gaskets and fuel filter, flushed tank and lines..added new gas, cranks strong and healthy, but backfires every other couple cranks...no go.... I'm on the losing end of the batle... I've invested some good time and labor and new parts, but afraid the life of these newer units are just shorter than the older machines, I've gotten 9 yrs.from this pig and might just pull the trigger on a new one... I'm stumped..

My next guess, and I know you said you have spark, but is the air gap between the flywheel magnet and the ignition module set to .010 as per the manual? (bottom of page 71)

http://resources.kohler.com/power/ko..._690_01_EN.pdf

My gap WAS too great, greater than .010...thank you...I loosened up the module, stuck my .010 blade between it and the flywheel mag block, socked down the screws for the module and removed my .010 blade....still no start, but still cranks strong and now has more regular backfires during cranks, before, backfires were VERY seldom to none....thanks for the time you've been investing with this..very much appreciated Sir.

Backfiring says something is out of time. I'm not at all familiar with the Courage engine but from pictures I've seen it doesn't look like ignition timing is adjustable so I would guess the cam is out of time. Or your new flywheel is not the same as the old one. Compare the old flywheel to the new looking at the relationship of the key to where the outside magnets are. If that's not right it will throw the ignition timing off and it will fire at the wrong time and backfire. You could knock the rest of the inside magnets out of the old one and stick it on there to try, if it runs that's the problem.