Hour Meter
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I've just completed rebuilding the engine in my sisters 1250. The hour meter was not turning so I figured before I replace it I may as well see what "makes it tick". Or in this case, what kept it from ticking.
I took some pics so anybody interested in trying to fix one might jump in. I also reset the needles to "0" for the fresh engine, you can see in the one pic they merely press on the shaft with spring tension. *pic 1 shows the small pick i used to pull the flange back/open on the face ring. (it's quite soft and was east to do) *pic 2 shows the ring removed *pic 3 is obviously the inside, in my case it just need a light blast of air to clean it out. (sorry i cant say any of your meters will be repaired as easily :GoodLuck:) *pic 4 shows the needle removed, it simply pulls straight off the shaft with a little tug. *pic 5 shows i used a flat drift pin to simply "roll" the edges back closed around the circumference of the gauge when finished inside. *pic 6 is the finished piece. you can easily see it was done, but not when placed back in the dash. *and finally pic 8 shows the "new" zeroed hour meter ready for another 45 years of service! and last but not least, the tractor proper. |
In the days before everything became electronic in automobiles, the dashboard clocks operated by passing power through a set of contact points inside the clock to a relay arm that would kick back and simultaneously open the contact points and wind the clocks spring to make it run. As the clock ran the spring would gradually wind down and the relay arm would slowly move back to hthe position where the contact points would close and the whole thing would repeat, and the clock kept ticking. Usually when the clocks quit working it was because the contact points had become pitted, just like the ones in your engine.
I have not had one of these hour meters apart but being of the same era I assumed they operate the same way. When you had it open, did you see anything such as I have described? |
You can hear the clock spring wind when you first turn the key.
That is if your ears are still any good like mine aren't! |
I found that the old lube in the bearings would get stiff and keep the gears from turning. A spray of tv tuner cleaner would usually fix the problem.
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It's right there in your hand when you start the tractor.....
The ignition key!! |
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electro magnetic wind impulse. When you turn the key off it continues to run maybe half a minute. While the car clocks used a longer spring. IIRR they ran about 3 minutes between impulses. They were not a coiled spring like a 8 day clock or a rope starter spring they are about the size of a ball point pen spring, like a mini screen door spring. Still remember hearing the clock "click/rewind" when sitting in my '56 chevy, Now I'd be lucky to hear the engine running.:bash2: |
George, I had a 54 Olds 98, 2 door hardtop.
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DAD: '28, '32,'40, '50 '56 HT..'58 post,'63 HT, Me: '54 HT. '55 post '57 conv., '60 ElCamino, '64ss. Then I got married and quit counting. I still have Dads '63 Impala HT.:beerchug: Other collectables also yes, all Bowties :biggrin2: Opps, off topic AGAIN :bash2: |
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