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-   -   How to Bench Start an AQS Engine (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=54276)

AL Farmall Boy 01-09-2019 09:07 PM

How to Bench Start an AQS Engine
 
4 Attachment(s)
How would I start this Kohler K-321 AQS engine that I pulled out of a Cub Cadet 1450 quietline parts tractor? I have ghenengine on the engine on the bench and want to test it. I filed the points and checked the wiring diagram and found the coil gets battery power from the switch and since it's out of the tractor I just used a jumper wire from coil (+) to battery (+). I then put a large jumper cable on a bolt on the engine head and the other end to the (-) battery post. Went around to move points to see if I had spark and it sparked and the "spring" part of the points that allow them to move caught fire and warped. The little harness plug that you see goes to regulator piece.......2 outer wires went to the stator on the engine so I left those unplugged since it has been removed. I think (I'm away from it now) that The middle wire on the regulator piece goes to negative side of coil.

Here are a couple of pictures so you can see what is going on. thenengine came out of a parts tractor and after pulling the oil pan it looks really good, so I want to see how well it will run. I thought it was stuck but it was just the PTO clutch that was stuck. The red battery cable on the starter was never hooked to the battery. Please tell me I just overlooked something simple. I was in a bit of a hurry because I was about to head home.

cubby102 01-09-2019 10:38 PM

Bolt it down to something solid. Negative cable bolted to block. Switched wire to the coil positive. Then need a wire with a heavy duty push button to the starter. Or wire in a solinoid

Edit : I should have read the post first lol

finsruskw 01-10-2019 08:26 AM

I'd static time it and drop it in the tractor.

If it has been properly assembled, there's not much you can do while it's on the bench that you can't do once it's SAFELY installed.

If its static timed and the points and plug are clean, with fuel it should be running darn near before you can let go of the key.

I've rebuilt several engines and about to reassemble one for my 1650.
Have never felt the need to bench test one yet.
Just more work for no gain

Oh, one more thing DON'T FORGET THE OIL!!!

R Bedell 01-10-2019 09:23 AM

This may help you..... Bench test

AL Farmall Boy 01-10-2019 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finsruskw (Post 475902)
I'd static time it and drop it in the tractor.

If it has been properly assembled, there's not much you can do while it's on the bench that you can't do once it's SAFELY installed.

If its static timed and the points and plug are clean, with fuel it should be running darn near before you can let go of the key.

I've rebuilt several engines and about to reassemble one for my 1650.
Have never felt the need to bench test one yet.
Just more work for no gain

Oh, one more thing DON'T FORGET THE OIL!!!

This one was pulled from a parts tractor that I thought was stuck, but turned out that the PTO clutch was the one that was stuck. I want to start and run it so I can see if it is worth using in something or parting out. It does have oil now.

AL Farmall Boy 01-10-2019 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R Bedell (Post 475908)
This may help you..... Bench test

Thank you. I'll check all connections against that diagram.

Does it really matter if the condenser is grounded? Mine was just connected to the coil and left resting from the coil mounting stud since this is a temporary run.

Also, I had hooked up a large jumper cable to the lifting eye bolt and the other end to the (-) battery cable to ground the engine. Is this imperative to run it, or would that have caused the problem I had with the points?

R Bedell 01-10-2019 11:05 AM

Quote:

Does it really matter if the condenser is grounded?
Absolutely.

On a Quietline (with ISO mounts) it is imperative that a Ground Cable be used between the Engine Block and the Frame.

AL Farmall Boy 01-10-2019 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R Bedell (Post 475920)
Absolutely.

On a Quietline (with ISO mounts) it is imperative that a Ground Cable be used between the Engine Block and the Frame.

That is probably what sent straight voltage to the points then. I'll fix it all and try to start it again. Where do you all recommend grounding the engine? Is what I did sufficient, or should I just bolt a cable to the side of the engine and hook to battery?

R Bedell 01-10-2019 11:48 AM

As a Suggestion. I ran my ground cable from the Starter Mounting Bolt.

Gompers 01-10-2019 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finsruskw (Post 475902)
I'd static time it and drop it in the tractor.

If it has been properly assembled, there's not much you can do while it's on the bench that you can't do once it's SAFELY installed.

If its static timed and the points and plug are clean, with fuel it should be running darn near before you can let go of the key.

I've rebuilt several engines and about to reassemble one for my 1650.
Have never felt the need to bench test one yet.
Just more work for no gain

Oh, one more thing DON'T FORGET THE OIL!!!

I've been meaning to build a static test rig since it's kinda a hassle to get a KT/Mag wedged into an 82 series, and once it's in there, if you have an issue with the charging system or with the starter, it's a giant PITA to get at without pulling it out.

I'd also like to be able to run engines of unknown condition without having to mount them in a tractor. Someday I hope to have more engines than tractors :D (just a good spare KT/Mag and a good spare K301/321 or so laying around).


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