I haven't fully decided on how I will synch the front drive with the rear. I think to start with I will mount an electric clutch on the hydraulic motor so I can completely disengage it from driving the front differential when not needed. I know Case 220 and 446 tractors have hydraulic motors that are control with a valve mounted under the dash. If I can use something like that I may be able to connect it to the lever control on the cub rears. I think it would be a trial and error situation to sync them as close as possible. Additionally I consider the front an "assist" rather than full time. I think if I have a momentary switch hooked to the electric clutch I could just engage the front when needed. Lots to figure out there yet. My plan is to get the grader functional with the rear drive first befor I tackle the addition of the front drive.
|
For the front drive I am planning on using a Case 220 speed controller and hook it to the other linkage and see if I can synchronize them.
I have a hydro question if someone can answer it. One of the rears I am using has the manual release valves. Can I replace them with the automatic valves? I looked at the post that shows a place to order them and in the pictures they appear to be the same. |
2 Attachment(s)
I'm using a one inch driveshaft between the hydros. That should reduce any flex. I have mounted a pillow block as well. I wanted to bolt the pillow block directly to the front rear as there are bolts already in the top but the bearing was too tall to fit.
The engine is a K582 Kohler. 58 cubic inch opposed twin. It came off a Jacobsen commercial reel mower that was used by a golf course. I wanted to use an electric clutch to disengage the drive during start up but the 1-7/16 shaft size presents a problem. Not truly impossible to find one but at $350 I decided to put a manual release on it. |
That's the size of a JD 318 shaft... see if you can find a parts machine on CL or FB for the clutch...
|
Quote:
|
Short answer is no. But you could easily mount a pump to the front of the front hydro. Be tricky to synchronize the front drive speed to the others. Best would be a small, mechanically variable displacemnt piston pump to a geroler motor and a separate oil tank. Probably cost a $1,000.
|
And yes, you can exchange the manual release valves for the auto version, no problem.
My front hydro is ported and that's what I used for all the hydraulics. If you do the same, you'll have a problem with room to mount a pump there. You, of course, could use the pump for all your hydraulics, and won't need to use the ports. |
Quote:
|
3 Attachment(s)
Quote:
This is the one I bought--bi directional/3600 rpm, pump or motor. Probably not "industrial" grade, but for my needs I felt the price was right. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...1989_200641989 I don't know about using the rear axle for a reservoir for a gear pump. Ambush talked me out of it, basically. He's got a lot more experience with such stuff. It was enough uncertainty for me to fall back to the belt drive which is much simpler. I am using the rear axle reservoir for my tandem dump, and it has a motor running constantly, (about 2 gpm) circulating to the rear axle reservoir, but it's not doing any work unless it's lifting the bed which is pretty infrequent. So the work being done is much less (like 5%) of the work being done by a full time hydraulic drive system which is constantly under a lot of load. That heavy load creates a lot more heat and potentially more wear on components, which creates the concern that Ambush identified. What's the worse case? A failed hydro? What's that cost to replace? Like $50 to $100, so not a huge consequence if you decide to go down that path anyway. It's not like you are building something for market, it's a toy, so who cares if it has an occasional failure? You know, how many hours will it actually be used anyway? Maybe 10 to 20 hours/yr? A filter would certainly be a good idea. The fluid fed from the axle's reservoir to the axle's hydro is filtered by the hydro's own filter so I think any debris sent to the axle reservoir would get filtered out before it got to the hydro itself. If I needed to drive the front axle, I think I'd seriously consider using the rear axle for a reservoir, despite the risks, since the consequences are rather small. Maybe Ambush will add some advice. Here's the Tandem set up. I used the forward axle's housing for the reservoir to avoid all the plumbing right beside the Lovejoy driving the pump behind the rear axle. |
Excellent information! Thank you. i'm still sorting out the front drive but I want to know more about what I am doing by the time I get there. I picked up a speed control from a Case tractor and I think it is going to work for controlling the front axle. I still have to build the rear bulkhead and seat box but I want to get the hydraulics worked out while everything is still wide open. On a side note a friend on mine who just found out that I am building this offered me a 905E Kubota diesel that I would have loved to use for this but I already have the K582 in place and don't want to change it. I am going to pick up the Kubota anyway. I will need it somewhere!
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:27 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.