No crank situation with a CC 122
 

I have a no crank CC 122, battery is good, no click.


1- If i don't hear a click, if it's not the battery, what else would it be?
2- How do I hot wire a CC 122? (is that the same thing as jumping the solenoid?)


Thanks for your help. I am a complete newbie to troubleshooting a mower of any kind that doesn't start.

Simple circuit really. It is more than likely your clutch start switch. Trace the circuit using this. The switch is located under the tractor on the clutch/brake linkage, it interrupts the start path to the start solenoid until clutch/brake is depressed.

1X2/3

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=35

Thank you. Is that the same as the "safety switch" in the diagram?

I will look in the morning. Thank you!

How could one bypass that switch to hot-wire start the engine?

Hey welcome to OCC ! I never encourage a “hot wire/by-pass” recommendation especially since you are new to the tractor and it’s wire diagram. Seriously, people can get hurt this way. So, sounds like to me that you are not getting power back to the starter solenoid, which would allow power to your starter generator. A test light and multi meter are great tools to understand and have. To begin, search the problem here and expert advice is written and given. Also check into the 122 Operator’s manual for the schematic of your tractor here in the Tec section of OCC. Learn and enjoy the journey!

Theres no reason you cant jump the safety switch "for testing" by the way... ALL my cubs are currently undergoing "testing" lmao. Jumping the safety is just like it sounds. Use a piece of wire to connect them together.

As Far as safety switches go,
they are a pain in the ass, but have good intentions and the clutch/brake ones I feel, are very important and the only ones I will not bypass.
That said, a simple test light or CHEEP meter will quickly determine if a switch is functioning, especially the simple 2 connection normally closed or normally open variety.:beerchug:
Also check the IGN switch as many are known to corrode and loose contact.
Sometimes a simple wiggling of the wire connector on the back will yield results.
Let us know what you find

A test light works just the same. You can locate power right to the problem. The only time I ever had to by pass a SAFETY switch was when the spring steel engagement lever broke. If the safety switch was bad you should have power going to it. So it’s pretty easy to track this down on these models. But to each their own.

Good news. After cleaning the contacts very well, shaking wires, and tightening the connections it now turns. What a good feeling that is. :)

It does start but only starts when I pour starting fluid directly into the spark plug opening. The spark plug looks dirty (at least 3yrs old) but it does create a spark (i turned the key with the plug out and saw it spark), and it does start for a few seconds (with white smoke) only when i pour starting fluid in.

Took the filter out, it's not so bad.

I did add fresh fuel a week ago, and mixed in starting fluid into the tank today.

Now, onto the next step, where do I go from here in getting it to start and keep running?

Does this have a fuel pump or is it gravity fed? In the past, when on un-even ground, while having little fuel in the tank it did die on me, so i feel this is gravity fed. Is this a fuel line issue?

Ditch the pouring in starting fluid!!
Not a good idea.
Fix the carb and be done with it, that's where the issue lies.
You might just wash down the cylinder walls and score the surface.

Next time you have it running, adjust the carb.
It should start w/just a bit of choke when cold
If not, you have other issues

Hi finsruskw, thank you!
Any videos or diagrams you can recommend to help with this?