New shop
 

I'm in the process of getting the permits and all the other crap needed to start my new Cubby shop & MIL apartment and have a few questions.

I plan on heating the slab with a Pex type tubing and probably a tankless water heater. This is pretty much unheard of here in Georgia so I don't really have anyone at work to ask and I know there is a ton of knowledge from our members here. I've watched tons of videos on YouTube but we all know how that is. Has anyone here installed hydronic heat in the slab?

Pretty much anything like I'm building they always do a monolithic slab here because it doesn't get that cold(slab & footer are all one). Since I'm doing all the plumbing and slab heat myself I was wanting to have them pour the footer, stem wall and then they can start framing. That way I could do my stuff and not be rushed.

I dread the day I gotta drag all the crap I collected for the last 15 years out into the back of my yard and cover it with a tarp until this thing is complete. I will probably have to sell off some of my stuff too.

So, if anyone has any tips they can pass on please let me know.

TIA, Todd

No tips buddy, but you mean to say, the Cubs are moving out of the "chicken coop?" :biggrin2:
You know the drill, :callyou:

so you gotta tear one down to build another? thats no fun. been there done that. gotta do it again as my side building is wooden, and falling in slowly.
I'm not sure on the pex in the floor. Theres a special kind of stuff to run but I don't know the ins and outs of it. I'm sure someone on here will though.

Oak... Its called Angie's List....

Also Home Advisor and its free,
Oak, are you an AC guy? You should be able to handle the installation then.

I did a few of those radiant heat systems in a slab, easy to do, you do not have issues with freezing temps, so no antifreeze, I never used pex, but I am sure it will last. I used braided rubber hose made for radiant heat, works fine.

I just did 7000 Sq feet fire station. You need to insulate you're slab from your footing. So pour the footing and then roll the concrete barrier around the inside footer. Lay the 2" foam insulation down starting at one corner working out. Lay the foam down tight. The goal is for the slab, and slab only, to be the heat sink. You do not want all of your heat going into the footer and subsequently, the ground. Roll out your 5/8" oxygen barrier pex tubing on 12" centers, and keep your loops or zones equal lengths for a consistent pressure drop across the manifold. I use strut and 1" sch 40 conduit els to bring up through concrete. Pressurize to 50 psi. Pour the slab.

Hose is OK. Pex is more economical, and lays down nice if it's above 60. If it's freezing while your putting the tubing down, you will have to use hose. We always put glycol in the loops. Up here it's suicide not to. Hate to go to all that effort and have something happen. Not quite as simple to change out as a 98%heat x

There is a special tubing for in-floor heat and is joined and manifolded in the same manner as PEX but the tubing is of a material that will hold up to life long exposure to concrete. The biggest issue is tying the tubing onto the stanchions to position the tube in the slab. You create your forms, lay in the insulation, lay your bar or mesh reinforcements, then carefully lay out your heat runs (zones) and twist tie the tube onto little plastic stanchions (risers). The trick is to not cut or chafe the tube while rolling it out. When we poured 35 yards for the floor in a museum, we rented a couple of rechargeable tie guns that twisted the preformed loop of wire. Some guys swear by zip ties, but the professionals all use the wire as it is faster. Make sure to sketch an accurate drawing of the exact location of each tube. Pictures help. If the slab must be cut for expansion joints, you need to know where the tubes are. Also if you ever drill and bolt to the floor for a lift or some other machine the same thing goes!
You will love the in-floor heat. No noise, no dust or cold drafts, and the floor dries very quickly when water is spilled or the floor is washed. If you work under vehicles as I do, you will be working in shirt sleeves!

Here are a few pictures of south bay.

Diesel doctor, you are wrong.

It has an oxygen barrier that prevents oxygen from penetrating the tubing keeping from over oxygenation the water.

Has nothing to do with concrete protection.

All slabs should be cut

Rebar sits on chairs and is installed after in floor is laid.

At no point do I want anything wire metal anything touching my in floor tubing.