New guy 127 ?'s
 

Greetings,
I just picked up a 127 Hydro, the IH serial number dates it Nov '69. Now the questions. Supposedly it ran 6 months ago, gas cap is rusted onto the tank, and with a new battery nothing happens so I doubt it. The insulation on some of the wires coming out of the harness are frayed and corroded. I know I can jump the solenoid to get it to turn over, but are there any neutral safety switches I need to look for? Also is there a way to release the brakes so I can drag it onto a trailer. I'd rather not have to work on it in the dirt, on the side of the highway. Any tips, hints or check this first would be great. Other than the above it looks in great shape, I don't believe it has been restored, all the decals on the motor and the sheet metal are readable, a little faded but in really nice shape. I have a lot of experience with Allis-Chalmers B series, and IH TD series dozers, my first Cub though.
Thanks for any info in advance.
Terry

TBell ,
I'm not sure of your color codes for the safety switches. The might be orange. There will be a two pronged female connector on them. They are found in the lower dash area. If you see something like this not connected check out your wiring diagram to make sure what you are looking at.

There is a lever to set the brake on the pedal, push the pedal down and pull the lever back. I'm guessing that the pedal isn't locked down though, If the pedal is "up" then you need to release the relief valves on the transaxle. On the right side of the tunnel there should be a lever to release the valves with (I believe you pull the lever up) then the transaxle should "freewheel" and can be moved. If it's been setting long, the valves may or may not work. In any event you should be able to push the tractor onto a trailer (with some difficulty). Do not, Do not, Do not tow the tractor without popping the relief valves, as this is pretty-much the only way to ruin the hydro unit in a Cub Cadet.

The neutral safety switch is located just in front of the brake pedal shaft almost directly in the center of the tractor. Sometimes the switches are bad and the plug is removed and a jumper wire is put in the plug. The wires should be orange (one should have a black stripe). There is no safety switch for the PTO.

Cracked insulation/freyed wires is a pretty common problem. The fix is pretty-much a judgement call for the owner.

Be careful trying to get the rusted cap off of the tank, pliars will usually distort the cap or the neck of the tank making it difficult to use in the future.

Good Luck

Thanks, I was mostly concerned about the hydro. As this is the first hydro i've had the last thing I want to do is junk it before I even get it started! I will be tinker on it tonight or tomorrow. I will also post a few pictures as soon as I get it off the side of the road!
Thanks again
Terry

Update. Finally got around to tinkering and got her running last night. For a machine that hasn't run in at least six months I must say I am impressed! Needs a little carb work as it will only run on full choke, but lit right off and not a puff of smoke and idles very smooth. I was extremely careful removing the gas cap and have no damage. I am curious about the dump valve for the hydro. Should that be opened and closed with motor running or off? Any chance of damage if run for a few minutes with it open? As I had said this is my first hydro and I'm trying to be careful.
Thanks
Terry

I don't believe you will damage the hydro running it with the valves open. The relief valves are there just for the purpose of moving the tractor when it is not running.

AJ

Thanks AJ, I didn't think it would hurt but wanted to make sure. Hopefully I will have it moving tonight and into the shop tomorrow. Then a good going through.
Thanks again
Terry

Wild Bill,
Thanks for the info. I got her running and removed the access plate and hosed down the pins with penetrating oil, I can now go backwards and a good solid neutral. But no forward yet. I let it soak over the weekend and will try again tonight or tomorrow. Surprisingly the the unloader flap is in really nice shape. I think it was locked down(unload) for quite a while as the pin for reverse took a little coaxing but popped up and now moves freely. If forward is still stuck I will try to wiggle it with a pair of needle nose. It does have a steering issue though, makes a full left turn but barely anything to the right. Is this a common, easy fix?
Thanks again
Terry

Changing the length of the drag link slightly will change how far it steers to either side. Most tractors that were used strictly for mowing are set up to turn tighter to the left to go around trees and stuff. Yours sounds like the PO got a little carried away with that:biggrin2.gif:

TBell, Matt is correct about the drag link. Something else you might want to look into is centering the steering wheel. A 100 I got had the same problem. Disconnect the right side steering link. Turn the wheel all the way to the left. Now turn it all the way to the right and count the number of turns. Divide that by two and turn the wheel back to the left that much. The wheel is now centered. And all things being equal you will have a full range of steering.

I think it was Mr. Bedel that made this information available when I needed it. Although he didn't know I needed it.:biggrin2.gif:. Anyway I centered the wheel, put on new tie rod ends and a good used left side steering spindle and it works like a champ.