1782 Turbo Diesel
 

Hi everyone,

I need a little help and guidance. I just installed one of Michael Masheris turbo kits on my 1782. I did the initial start up and ran it for 30 minutes at idle and would occasionally increase throttle speed throughout the break in process. During the break in the process there was no boost at all. I could hear the turbo whining while running. After the 30 minutes I changed the oil and restarted it. I drove it around the yard, engaged the PTO to run the 60" deck and cut a small section of grass. I still had no boost reading at all. I increased the the fuel by a half turn and still have the same result. I decided to go over all of my lines and fittings. I discovered oil in the charge tube. Is this normal? I then tested my new boost gauge to ensure it was working properly, which it was. I hooked everything back up and started the tractor still with no boost. Michael recommended I try hooking the tractor up to a heavy cart and pull it to see if it builds boost. The closest​ thing I have to that was a 1984 VW Rabbit Diesel. I was able to pull the VW with load on the tractor and still no boost. Any guidance, ideas, help would be greatly appreciated. Michael make and awesome kit and I am just trying to get it working properly. I have attached pictures of the build. Thanks in advance.

If you have oil in the tube that runs from the turbo to the intake of the engine and no boost I suspect that you have a failed turbo. I suggest you discuss this with Mike since this is an aftermarket kit. :bigthink:

Like Sam said, should not have oil in the charge line hose. If you do, it's likely a bad turbo. It happens.

As far as not boost goes though, the oil has nothing to do with it. Is the turbine even spinning? Is the wastegate shut? What fuel screw did you mess with?

I've put a lot of turbo's on in my career..... never "broke in" a turbo. Never did an oil change after installing one... Hell, never changed the oil before or after installing one, unless it needed an oil change. Unbolt the old, bolt on the new and out the door it goes.

This is my area of expertise so maybe I can help, the oil drain line for the turbo is horizontal which will cause restriction and force oil past the sealing rings in the turbo. Oil drain lines need to be as close to vertical as possible. Don't run it any more until you get the drain issue resolved or it can cause damage to your new turbo.

On a side note, I just picked up a 1782 myself and have been researching turbos, can someone put me in contact with Michael?

Thank you both for the reply. I figured that oil in the charge pipe probably wasn't a good sign. After far as changing the oil / break. I had read other posts where people recommend it. I figure doing the break process they recommend won't hurt and my tractor was due for and oil change within the next month or two. Figured it wouldn't hurt. I have reached out to Mike and just waiting to hear from him. Thanks again.

I will take more pictures of the line tomorrow. I understand that it's running horizontal but The line has a constant down hill slope. With it having a constant slope do you think I still need to fix it. Thanks

In the last picture you posted it looks like there's a low spot in the drain line right above the starter. If it was me, I would have a 45* fitting off the turbo so you have a steeper, more consistent drop. Any pressure whatsoever in that drain line will cause the oil seals to leak. Which turbo do you have?

I agree the drain isn't the way I would have done it, but I really don't think it's an issue. Changing it wouldn't be bad though. The drain tube is large enough, and even if it isn't draining well, it shouldn't be adding pressure on the seal unless it is restricted somewhere.

You would be surprised how little restriction it takes to cause a turbo to leak, when we build compound kits for the Cummins engines we use -4 AN feed and -12 AN drain lines and 45* MAX drain angle. I've had tons of customers come in with leaking turbos and either too small of a drain or a low spot in the drain. A very popular company is offering -10 drains for newer trucks that have been converted to the older manifold style and they're 6" too long, lots of turbos have been killed thanks to these custom drains. Another thing I noticed in the OP's pictures is the cartridge of the turbo isn't vertical, which I've noticed on all of the smart car turbo swaps I've seen so far. Some turbos are designed this way, but if the smart car engine is tilted and this is to compensate I see this being an issue also, which is why I'm on the fence about putting a smart turbo on my 1782, it looks like the cartridge is bolted solid to the turbine housing so it can't be clocked like most.

I'm not arguing that his turbo isn't bad, because it very well could be, just trying to help diagnose. If he bought one with a larger A/R turbine housing than others are using that would explain the lack of boost, or if the wastegate is stuck open. Typically when a turbo is leaking and not building boost its because something has jammed the compressor or turbine (the inertia created by spinning high RPM is what actually makes the sealing rings work, but he can hear the turbo whistling so this isn't the case.