How properly set my mower deck (441U-1111)
 

I have the manual and it says how to level the deck by measuring the height of the mower blades front to rear. What about the gauge wheels? The rears are down on the ground, but front roller is up in the air. Is that normal?

The deck should hang from the mule drive and not ride 100% on the wheels.
Wheels are to keep it from scalping on humps etc.

Sorry, I meant if I lower the deck all the way, the rear wheels are touching ground the front roller is up in the air. The gauge wheels have several holes for the shoulder bolts. The front roller is off the ground. When cutting, yes the wheels are "hovering". I didn't know if all the wheels should be at the same height/touch ground at the same time.

As long as the wheels aren't riding the ground while your deck is at the height you mow at you will be fine.

To level the deck, Cub sells this gauge. It is part # 490-900-0041. You will need to check each blade for the best cut.
Attachment 98819

When you have the blades parallel with the frame rail you want the front tip about 1/8" lower than the rear of the blade.

https://www.amazon.com/Stens-750-442...80327495&psc=1

I would respectfully disagree. I mow with my 50C with all the wheels on the ground, since 2002, and have had NO problems, other than normal maintenance.

BUT, to each his own.

I leveled my 50C deck by taking it off the tractor. Setting the deck up side down on some saw horses, get a long straight edge. Measure everything from Front to Back, and Side to Side, then adjust to where everything is in the same plane and straight.

Personally speaking, with the tractor sitting on a level concrete surface with the deck lowered all the way, I find it frikken' impossible to measure the blade height other than the one at the chute. How are you supposed to measure where you can't get your hand or see? They should sell a trained mouse that you send in there with a gauge. Maybe I could place lumps of clay under the blade tips, lower the deck, then remove and measure the thickness of the clay. Does anybody have an easy way of doing this or is it just me?

To me it only makes sense to level the blades while they are up and then you can rely on the mule drive frame to work correctly, raising and lowering evenly. My gage wheels would dig into my lawn while making tight turns if I let them ride on the lawn all the time.

I agree with Roland sort of. All my tractors I have ever adjusted I set so that the wheels would just barely touch a freshly cut area. Meaning if you cut your grass high like I do say 2.5 to 3" after cut my wheels will just barely touch the fresh cut grass. As far as leveling. I do the same as ironman. My garage floor is pretty level. I level the deck to the floor while positioned in the height I want to cut at. The wheels should not harm the grass or soil because they should never be HARD pressed down to be buried in the grass deep enough to touch dirt.

I set the tractor on 6x6 wood blocks or any other similar
support,----- (of course taking common sense safety precaution) and go about leveling a deck.
Easy to take measurements and make adjustments that way.
As far as the front roller, most I've seen are quite a bit above the surface of the lawn.
I always figured they are to help in an incline situation, or loading operation.
Way to high to be of help anti- scalping.
As far as the wheel adjustment, I run them just off the surface,allowing the deck to hang on the mule drive.
I do not measure from any deck edges, but from the blade cutting tips both front to rear and then from side to side.