Only Cub Cadets

Only Cub Cadets (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/index.php)
-   IH Cub Cadet Tractors (GT) (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=9)
-   -   1974 Cub cadet 1250 partial restoration (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=52128)

Mudrig150 05-14-2018 09:50 AM

1974 Cub cadet 1250 partial restoration
 
Here's my 1974 Cub 1250, got her for 200$ at an estate auction, along with a deck, and snow blade. She has ag tires and wheel weights, had tire chains and goofy headlights. She's a little anemic, but it's okay. We removed the one tire and swapped it, turns out my spindles are dead from the bearings seizing and
scoring the hell outta them, so she's gonna need new spindles. She has a weird pepper can exhaust, which sticks out like a sore thumb and is a burn hazard. She is, of course, missing the expensive parts, and she has no headlights, but it's fine.
http://preview.ibb.co/dnvWyy/20180509_172030.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/i2Wh5d/20180509_172051.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/d6DvQd/20180509_171003.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/hFfLrJ/20180509_165826.jpg

john hall 05-14-2018 12:09 PM

I see potential!

Mudrig150 05-14-2018 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john hall (Post 453629)
I see potential!

My plan is to put new decals on, install factory headlights, fix the muffler, repair the steering, and replace a few parts.

I might put a hydraulic lift in it once everything's done like my brother did.

john hall 05-14-2018 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 453630)
My plan is to put new decals on, install factory headlights, fix the muffler, repair the steering, and replace a few parts.

I might put a hydraulic lift in it once everything's done like my brother did.

Yeah its rather hard to say "I'll only repair this and that". Every time I set out to fix one thing, I see something else, next thing you know its all apart and I say, well I might as well fix_____. But its nice when its done and I can count on it being rather reliable.

Mudrig150 05-15-2018 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john hall (Post 453637)
Yeah its rather hard to say "I'll only repair this and that". Every time I set out to fix one thing, I see something else, next thing you know its all apart and I say, well I might as well fix_____. But its nice when its done and I can count on it being rather reliable.

Yeah, that's been me with my Powr kraft (Piece of junk), all I've found are issues, and it's pretty cheaply built. My 1974 Single cylinder 1250 runs better than my twin cylinder 1995 Powr kraft... It's kind of sad.

So far I've had multiple issues with the Powr kraft and one issue with my 1250: The hydro is severely anemic.

Mudrig150 05-21-2018 10:18 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I've figured out some issues with my tractor.
1. The thing misfires like mad. It misfires when on rough terrain and when throttled up. It is running lean? Or is it some other issue?

2. The hydro is weak. The tractor can barely make it up hills, and the pump gets hot. I think it is low on fluid.

3. Amp meter barely works. It goes up upon startup, but then slowly drifts back to 0 when running. Wiring issue or is it broke?

Thanks in advance, I'll post more later.
Here are some pics:

zippy1 05-21-2018 11:19 PM

And, your headlights are crooked.:biggrin2:
As for the weak hydro. Have you replaced fluid and filter? MAY BE a good place to start...:bigthink:

jsoluna 05-22-2018 04:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 454217)
I've figured out some issues with my tractor.

3. Amp meter barely works. It goes up upon startup, but then slowly drifts back to 0 when running. Wiring issue or is it broke?


It is operating properly. The ammeter measures current flowing in both polarities, so what you're seeing is that after you've cranked the engine and the charging circuit is active, your battery is receiving current. The battery, if in good shape, stabilizes soon after and the current drops back towards the center of the scale, close to "0". What you will see is that increasing the loads on the charging system while running will result in a change in the amperage output as seen on the meter. The engine running by itself doesn't require much amperage so that is why it rests close to the "0" on the scale.

If the current is flowing in the opposite direction the meter will read towards the "D" side of the scale. This means your battery is discharging.

Mudrig150 05-22-2018 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsoluna (Post 454269)
It is operating properly. The ammeter meausures current flowing in both polarities, so what you're seeing is that after you've cranked the engine and the charging circuit is active, your battery is receiving current. The battery, if in good shape, stabilizes soon after and the current drops back towards the center of the scale, close to "0". What you will see is that increasing the loads on the charging system while running will result in a change in the amperage output as seen on the meter. The engine running by itself doesn't require much amperage so that why it rests close to the "0" on the scale.

If the current is flowing in the opposite direction the meter will read towards the "D" side of the scale. This means your battery is discharging.

Good explanation, really helped. I still need to figure out the misfiring. I think it might be the pushrod for the points being essentially sanded short and flopping around. I think this might be it because it only misfires when on bumpy terrain and when throttled up.

J-Mech 05-22-2018 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 454275)
I think it might be the pushrod for the points being essentially sanded short and flopping around. I think this might be it because it only misfires when on bumpy terrain and when throttled up.

I'm betting you're wrong on that diagnosis.

Where did you come up with that?


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:59 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.