Carburetor Bushing for throttle shaft
 

No pics yet, I will snap some when I install them, I made several bushing for the throttle shaft/carb body for my 1450 today, it was not worn much at all, however some play in it. My son has a John Deere 214 that has pretty much the same motor, and his having a lot more play, so I turned off enough bushings to fix them both. I had all the stuff to do it with, . I purchased a 1/4" reamer awhile back, and that took longer than anything finding it !! All I had was 360 brass around, so that was used, ID came out perfect using a pin gauge, and calipers measuring exactly .2500". I will install these tomorrow, and looking at ordering some bronze for future bushings as it seems making bushings come up often in my tinkering.

For those that have put bushings in is it a light press fit, or a really hard press fit ?

I would think you'd want it kind of light so you can get it out again to replace in the future. The bushings in the briggs carbs aren't in there too hard.

I made these to 7/16" (.4375")OD that's the specs I found when searching were .250" ID, .4375" OD 1/8" long. I was just wondering how much of a press fit they are. I started way to many things on the 1450 at once, finished the drive shaft up, I want to finish the carb up, then the wiring harness, a few more odds and ends I hope. The mistake was doing it all at once.

Clint

The ones i bought at the hardware store were just snug. I used a small socket and a few light taps with a screwdriver handle to seat them. I wouldnt think you would want them very tight or you might split the aluminum when you were pressing them in. just my :TwoCents:

For those of you that don't have a lathe, you could obtain & install one of these....

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...bBushing-B.jpg

Try your local friendly hardware store and get yourself a couple of Hillman 58087-A bronze thrust bushings!!...perfect fit at about .85-.95 cents each....

I use a GreatNeck 6mm long socket to tamp them down squarely. The GreatNeck doesn't have a shoulder inside like some other brands, so it fits right over the throttle shaft.

Myron B

Oh man that hurts my feelings, I spent more time hunting down the reamer than a couple dollars is worth !! I looked on McMaster, and a couple other places before I decided to make some, the ones I found were $4 each, so at that price with two carburetors needing them I thought it would be worth making them. Maybe I should have looked harder before making some, also not sure what bronze alloy it is, but the brass 360 I used is not the best choice, it will last a LONG time, however I had rather used a SAE 660 bushing bronze which the store bought bushings are probably made from.

clint,

Here in Toledo, Ohio none of the hardware stores or auto part stores have even heard of Hillman. So depending on where you live it might not be "that simple". You didn't say where you finally found a 1/4 inch reamer. I'm still looking for one.

Hillman is a major national hardware supplier. All the Ace hardware's around here can order them if not in stock!!

Myron B

They are not in Toledo, Ohio.

Myron:

I am glad that the Ace Hardware in Joaquin TX carries that Hillman bushing.

In checking a 25 mile radius around my home, not one Ace Hardware stocks that bushing.

Hi Roland..Joaquin, (Pop 900) isn't big enough for an Ace Hdw. But Center TX, 22 miles away is...and they had to order it...got it over nite from the Dallas Distribution Center...Actually, I bought a packet of 10 of 'em (the minimum order for the store).

Now, as for as Toledo Oh is concerned:

http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?qu...lTopBox.search

Me thinks someone didn't look too hard for an Ace Hdw in Toledo.

Myron B

RPalmer

I picked the reamer up used on ebay, super cheap, it's always a gamble on used reamers however. Just search for hand reamers, 1/4" is a easy find. I always go overboard when making anything I turned all the OD dimensions first, I also made it about 4" long, then center drilled, drilled a .180 hole using a cobalt screw machine drill (short with no flex) then used a .215 drill, then reamed to size, then parted them off to .125" length, I also had to chuck them after this to put a small radii on the ID from the parting operation, so both sides of the ID, and OD got a small radius, all on the lathe without ever un-chucking (using collets so accuracy is in the .0000) . I need to pick up some more tools as well on ebay, it's still a great place for used reamers, taps, drills of odd ball sizes that work great for projects like drilling undersize for final ream, or for tapping as well you can be abit off.

I looked all around here I could find no bushing that could even be modified to work, that pretty much is the reason I decided to make my own. Now of course I left the cam at home, however I still have my carb off, I fixed my sons today, his just slid in as his shaft had worn the carb housing some, however with everything together it was still a tight fit with no side play at all. Both of the carburetors were missing the bushings.

I will get some pics, Clint

From the factory, no bushing was installed. All the bushings are installed after wear has occurred and not when new.

Thanks, that sure makes more sense now why no bushings in these two, I have two more to do as well !! I do have to question why no bushing was installed from the factory, keep in mind I'm not questioning you, just why they went to the trouble to counter-bore the housing for a bushing, and aluminum is by far not the best "bushing material" as for the factory OEM with just the shaft going through the housing, however they did last a long time. I have read where a loose throttle shaft has ruined more motors on the Kohler K series in these type than anything by sucking in dirt, and it seems I have read loosing vacuum as well.

Myron, You don't understand. It's Hillman that is not found at any hardware or auto parts store. I have no idea how you got no ace hardware stores from my post.

clint,
I'll be checking eBay. The reason I'm looking for one is because when I installed a bushing for the throttle shaft like the one R Bedell pictured below it was so tight that it distorted a little after installing. Should this happen again I want a reamer to straighten it out, so to speak.

Know one ever says if they install this bushing with the bowl on or off. The manual shows the process with the bowl off so perhaps that is the way it is mostly done. My only experience with replacing the bushing has led me to believe I want/need two tools. 1.) 1/4" reamer 2.) Arbor press.

One other thing. As hard as it may be to believe... the throttle shaft can wear down. I would not think that aluminum could wear away steel but I found a shaft and that is exactly what happened. So look over your shaft as well for wear or "necking".

R Palmer:

The process of installing the bushing would require the Carb being off the motor.

It's been a couple of year since I done mine, but IIRC, there was an insertion tool with the kit and I used my bench vise to press the bushing. Now, after installing the bushing, no reaming was required on my end. The press was snug but not that tight. BTW....I used the Kohler Bushing.


:IH Trusted Hand:

I did not have to remove the bowl, however I did thinking they were two bushings involved ( I'm new, and ignorant to this) after learning a bit, just remove the two screws from the butterfly, remove throttle shaft, and your ready to go...if the screws on the butterfly do not break or give trouble, and the carb is already off, as slow as I am it's a 5 minute job. I just put my carb in a vice, made a small aluminum punch from some scrap, and it was just a snug fit in my 1450 carb. No wear on the shaft at all, very little on the carb housing if any, however the bushing did tighten up what play was there.

I did mine per MBounds: I use a GreatNeck 6mm long socket to tamp them down squarely.
The tamp them down squarely part distorted the top of the bushing to where a reamer was needed. I cheated and used a 1/4" drill bit. Without reaming, the shaft was binding. Your mileage may vary. I guess on the next ones I'll but them in my vise. (but an arbor press would be nice.)

Clint-

They probably didn't originally install it because it would wear out after 35 years, too, and then you'd have to get the old one out before installing a new one, which isn't always the easiest thing in the world. Some people don't have a tap to thread the ID of it to pull it out. Briggs twin carbs are full of things like that....for example, the seat in the carb is that way; you have to tap it 1/4-20 and thread a bolt in to pull it out. The Kohler carbs are so much easier to rebuild.

MattG

I suppose you are right, still as a general engineering standpoint it seems they would have put the bushing in. I'm not fussing because they didn't, I'm really glad they counterbored the housing, that would be a huge pain compared to playing with a bushing. I have not run into the specific problem on tapping/removing bushings yet, no problem if I do as you said tap and put a allen screw etc to pull it out, or would a easy out work just as well ?

I rebuilt the carb on my 1450, and I agree with you, it is super easy job, I have rebuilt several carbs before from complicated quadrajet, to this one, the Kohler was one of the simple straight forward, and that seems to last longer, and work better.

Clint-

I don't think an ez-out would work. I think you'd just grind out the ID of the bushing with it. Ez-outs don't work well in softer stuff in my opinion. It's REALLY easy to tap threads in bronze bushings.

I've never done a car carb, but the worst I've dealt with is the briggs twin carb...it's got about 5000 parts. A lot of briggs engine carbs don't even have a counterbore for a bushing...you'd have to ream the hole larger and install a bushing.

When I finally took the time, it took about 5 minutes and a phone call to the Hillman Group to turn up:

Fleeger's Ace Hardware
7828 West Bancroft Street
Toledo Ohio
(419) 841-5411

"They order regularly" and can order ANY Hillman item at any time!!!

Strange, how I can find that out all the way down in Texas....Geeesh...
"they're not in this area"...Hmmmph...

For others interested, just call The Hillman Group at 1-800-800-4900 and simply ask for the retailer nearest you. So, please, no more of this "I can't find'em" nonsense.

Myron B

Myron, That's super. I wonder why that particular store was not in the yellow pages dot aol listing you supplied of the Ace Hardware stores? Now all you have to do is hook up R Bedell. Thanks for the five minuets. I owe you. :biggrin2.gif:

RPalmer:

Uh...I am good. I use the Kohler Bushing. I know where to get them.

:biggrin2.gif:

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