First 149 engine swap, need pointers
 

Well, I have finally decided to do an engine swap :buttrock: with two 149's and I need some pointers as this is my first time ever. I know I can handle it all but would like some pointers. My main question is how do I lift the engine out? Can I loosen a couple of head bolts and mount an eye to them and hoist it out or is that risky? How do you lift them out? If it is safer I can get some help to just lift it out by hand.
I am moving everything with the engine, starter, carb, muffler, etc.... so I don't plan on taking anything loose that doesn't need to come off.

I saw that bracket you're talking about and wondered if it would be strong enough, I guess I got my answer.
Thanks

I just lift my Kt17's by hand by myself but that older engine may be heavier. I'd try and hoist it

Definitely use a lift if you can. The K321 and K341 are probably the heaviest engines used in a Cub Cadet second only to the Kubota. I lifted the motor out of a 1650 by myself once, and I'm probably lucky I didn't hurt myself. That sucker is HEAVY.

Gentlemen
We must remember to work our muscle as well as our minds and be in shape because we may not always have access to engine lifts. I have the steel and lifts to make my own lift just never have gotten around to it but I'm presently working on a K341 and it hasn't been all that bad to lift out and move from place to place if you have difficulty you could remove the starter and flywheel and loose a few pounds.

Although not as good as a lift, a decent quality Come-a-Long works ok, when I was younger I used a Come-a-long for car engines.

After the motor job, use it to get your Cub/truck unstuck out of the mud!:biggrin2.gif:

I used to say that.....now have a disk in my back that's going to need surgery on of these days. I use a Come-a-Long to pull motors.

Here here! I have spurs on several of my vertebra and some discs that are deteriorating. Add to that arthritis that keeps getting worse with every tick of the clock in my shoulders, thumb joints ect.. I tried to put a K301 into the back of my pick up... NOT!!! When I took apart a 301 I thought well with this heavy starter off it should be manageable. Nope. Then came off the flywheel. Now I thought I could move it for sure. Nope. A long story a little shorter.. I have a neighbor that I now hi-jack to help me.

Looks like I may be doing the eninge swap. The old engine puked oil out of the dipstick today and almost shot the dipstick completely out. But what amazes me is how good it still runs with all of that blow by.

I know ya'll like pictures so here are some of my progress.
I pulled both engines and have the new one in place in my old tractor. When I removed the engine from the donor, the left front motor mount bolt was missing and I know why, it's a mother to get to! I did replace it when I installed it into the old tractor. I did jack the front up but it is still a PITA. All that is left is mounting the fuel tank and swaping out a few parts.
I used the old trusty come a long to pull the engines with and it worked out much better than expected. Had to make a bracket out of some angle iron to mount to the old engine to pull it with, it didn't have one. All went smooth so far.

I did remove the decks but not the mule drive/lift carriage. My biggest concern it getting the throtle cable attached correctly. If I set the throttle at idle and incert the cable with the throtle lever in idle, will this have everything set right? I don't have a tach to check this with, is there a cheap one on the market that is good? What are the rpm's supposed to be? I think it is 1600 idle and 3600 top end?

Just a bit of advise to get to that problem engine bolt. If you have "family dollar" stores in your area, pick up a cheap socket set from them. I would have to look at mine, but I think it comes with a 1/4" drive 9/16" socket that is rather shallow. It made getting to the engine bolts on my 1250 a whole lot easier. As a added bonus, it comes with a very thin walled 3/8" socket that will fit the valve seat in the carburetor. Dollar General might sell the same kit, but I got mine at Family Dollar. I think it cost around $7. The case for it is blue with a clear plstic lid.

AJ

Idle spec in the book is 1000 no load, but I usually do 1250 or so on mine....1000 just seems too slow.