Suggestions welcomed - removing roll pin in driveshaft coupler
 

For two evenings I have been fighting with the roll pins on the rear coupler on the driveshaft (just in front of the trans) on my 124. I cannot get either of the two pins to budge. I've soaked them for days in liquid wrench, heated the coupling and tried pounding from both directions. My issues are complicated by the limited access I have through the empty creeper slot. I would love any suggestions that some of you who have been through this may have. I need to get this thing removed so I can send my bits to Mark as cores.

Thanks!

Use a roll pin punch (somebody got a pic? I don't) and if you've peened over the ends of the pin, you'll need to grind them flush with the coupler so you aren't trying to force the peened-over end through the coupler. Use a decent-size hammer. On some tractors, it is easier to get them out from underneath. On a NF without a creeper, that's probably the only clear shot you have at it.

Had the same problem, finally ended up basically splitting the tractor, removed all the bolts that connect the rear-end to the frame, also loosened the hydro lines, and disconnected a brake linkage, not really the easy way to do it. but I was able to move the rear end back enough to remove the drive shaft as a whole the remove the pins on a work bench.

That won't work on a 124... you can't pull the clutch all the way through the frame.

Yes it will, That's exactly how I got my roll pins out of my 124 a couple weeks ago. Couldn't get them to budge, so I left the driveshaft and clutch attached to rear end and removed the rear from the frame. Gave me access to the roll pins which took a pounding to get out. A "roll pin punch" is necessary, a standard pin punch will not work.

Let me say this..gotta , gotta have the right punches . There is a pic
here somwhere . They are a must in my book . They are specific to roll
pins.

Oops, I think my brain was in 'short-tunnel-NF' mode because the last time I did this it was on a 70, so that definitely wouldn't have worked.

I think I need less :Work: and more :Snooze:

Not to say that it will always work, but I found out tonight that a center punch works super! I was out of options as I had already mushroomed the end of the pin, and could not keep my flat punch on the pin. I figured a center punch would worsen the mushrooming on the pin, but it didnt. For a one way out not to be re-used pin, it drove right out. :beerchug:

Here is a pic:

Attachment 9733

I have a set of Snap-On roll pin punches and they work great. I also have a Brass Lag Punch that works great for removing roll pins, all types of bearings, and just about anything else you can think of without any damage.

This may also be useful:
http://www.scottishsgiandubhs.com/im...e%20Opener.jpg

Thanks all...I have to admit I was just dwon there staring at her and the idea of splitting her in two crossed my mind. I think that may be my best option at this point. I was using standar flat punches, but this pin won't even budge a fraction of a mm so I don't think peening over the edge is the problem. I think it is truly the poor access I have through the creeper slot.

Tomorrow I'm going to try to break her in two so I can get direct access to everything.

And yes...it is beer time!

Once the motor is out, the front is very light. You could flip it onto the rear cover plate on wood blocks easily. It is unstable but a little creativity could remedy that with some 2 x 4s then the roll pin is more open to opinion:beerchug:

In a pinch, I've used a bolt that was very close to the diameter of the pin...

to get the roll pin out
 

to get the roll pin out i made an air chisel bit make it the same size as the pin and to start it put a 1 /4 5/16 socket on the end

Well, I'm enjoying my celebratory beverage right now. I split the tractor in two to get the access I needed to whale on it with a BFH and numerous punches. Thanks to all of you for your sugestions, it certainly sounds like some of you have fought this battle many times before!