K301 timing
 

I have been trying to get the timing set as matt's post states. If I set the points a .020, and open the points w/a multimeter as soon as it fluctuates, the "S" on the flywheel is about a half a revolution off. I took the flywheel off and painted the T and S. I have tried .015 to .025 and always comes up close to the same. I mowed with this tractor before and it ran good. I was working on the tractor and noticed the muffler was glowing red at WOT. The sight window is on the right side of the motor on my 125.:bash2:

I put the S dead center in the window, then go to the other side and open the points ever so slightly until the meter moves. I stop at that point. Rotate the engine until the meter just breaks and check the window. If the S is centered you are done. If it is still off a bit, I center it up in the window and go back and readjust the points. Don't worry about a feeler guage. Use the meter to determine the gap. Also you may want to pick up a new points push rod. Yours may be worn down some.

DX3,
How do you set the points without a feeler gauge?:bigthink:

Matt's procedure tells you. Use the meter to determine the gap. Have the S mark centered in the sight window. Initially have the points loose enough to adjust. Make sure they are closed or touching initially. The meter will read zero. With the meter electrodes touching the points as Matt shows, start adjusting the points open very very slowly. Just as soon as the meter needle moves, this lets you know the points have broken open. This is the spot you want to be at with the S centered in the window. You should visually barely be able to see the points parted. This will have your gap set to exactly where it needs to be. The factory setting of .020 is just to get the points in a general area to where the motor will fire without proper fine tuning. Matt's procedure is a much better way and gets the points as close to perfect as you can get without using a timing light. I hope this helps some. Keep us posted. :beerchug:

here are instructions from the green manual...

Well said Dwayne!

Maybe I'm blind, but I can't find the sight window on my 149... Someone know where it is?

It is probably on the right side of the flywheel shroud, right behind the starter/generator. You will probably have to move the S/G to see in there.

I have set the "S" to the sight hole and adjusted the points just as it moves the meter, I turn the motor over and the "S" does not end up in the sight hole. Would this be caused by the breaker rod and/or the points being bad? Even if I set the points a little wider it only moves it an inch or so. I will get the parts this week and try again. I appreciate the reply DX3:Unknown:

The best way will probably be to have another person there with you as you are adjusting the points. Have them rotate the flywheel back and forth and you watch when the points open. Immediately as soon as the needle flickers let the other person tell you if the S is Centered, low, or hi. Work your points open or closed from that point to determine which way to go with them and keep doing that till they break soon as the S is centered. It just takes a few times and patience. I lucked out, that the engine I did was a quietline engine and the sight hole is on the same side as the points, so I was able to sit and adjust till I got it right. There is a good possibility the push rod could be wore down. A new one is not that much at NAPA. Make sure to get a new condenser if you get new points too.

Just replaced the points and condenser. The points push rod mic'd the same as new so I left it alone. I waited until the points closed and put the probes on the points and the meter went to the right or infinity as Matt described. As soon as the needle moved to the left or "0" I checked the sight hole and lo and behold there was the "S". The motor is out so as soon as I get it back in I will let everyone know how it does. Wish me luck and thanks again DX3.:Pray:

Good luck on the refire:beerchug: Matt's static method is the best:biggrin2:

Fingers are crossed. I think it should do you good now. Sounds like you have it correct.. :beerchug:

Found the sight window on my 149... It's a little hard to see being under the SG bracket.
I don't have an "S" mark though, mine has "SP", is this the one I'm looking for?

Yes should be. The other mark should have a T in it for top dead center.

Great answers Dwayne!:IH Trusted Hand:

Well guys I got it running and it has a very hard time throttling up. I tried adjusting the carb and got nothing. It idles good, but as soon as I rev it up it stumbles badly and won't rev unless I go real slow. I think it still is not close enough. I believe I need a timing light for a single cylinder. Can anyone suggest a good one? At least the mufflers not glowing anymore:bigthink:

UPDATE, I bought a timing light w/a tack signal. Revved it up to 1500 and set the points. It really made it nice to have one. I will see how it does when I put on the 48" deck after I restore it. Thanks for everybody's help.:ThumbsUp:

Newbie in Tenn.
 

So I have a Cub Cadet 149 I recently bought i was told it ran last year and the guy mowed with it .Well i find that hard to believe now since the carb just flooded out the throat and flowed like a river . I replaced the carb and it began to backfire when i finally got it started .In order to rmedy this i found this wonderful site of information called CCO . I would like to thank all of you for the information posted here and have registered as a new member .Now to get to my new problem ....after replacing the carb the coil new coil wire plug points and condencer I NOW HAVE LIFE OUT OF MY NEW OLD CUB ...BUT NOW IT IDLES A LITTLE ROUGH AND SMOKES A LITTLE BUT NOT LIKE RING SMAKE MORE LIKE EXHAUST FUMES ....HOW DO I GET PAST THIS AND ENJOY MY NEW OLD TRACTOR?

If it's idling rough and the exhaust smells like gas then I suspect your carb is set to rich or you have a weak spark that causes the fuel not to burn completely.