CC 100 resurrection
 

I spoke with the PO yesterday. Turns out this cub has been sitting for more than 15 years. I can't believe it started up and does not smoke!!

I got the severely frozen axle pin out. It needed gobs of heat and an impact chisel and it finally came out. There was no grease fitting, but I did install a fitting. We shall see how long the axle holds up after all that heat and a new hole.

I got the points wire reconnected and the cover installed into the repaired holes. Much nicer to have that cover on tight.

I also got my steering shaft back with a new thread end welded on and a much nicer cap nut to hold on the wheel. Much better than the long bolt protruding an inch or so out of the center of the wheel.

Rain tomorrow so I hope to get the front end back together. I will also reassemble the steering gear with fresh grease.

I wish I had a digital camera to show you guys my slow progress.

Oh, I also got an email back from Merk on the PTO. I may also try to dig into that tomorrow. Seems like a good project to tackle while the engine is sitting on my workbench.

Sounds like you're making some really nice headway...keep up the good work!
Jason

Good deal Bob, glad everything is working out for you! :cool:

I got the front end put back together. I just need a new pin to stick it back on the tractor. The wheel bearings were fine once I removed the old grease. I discovered that the wheels were different. One wheel is threaded for a grease fitting, but no fitting, and the other does not have such a threaded hole. The PO told me his brother wrecked the tractor once. Rode it down a steep hill with the clutch in and hit a big bump which tore off one of the spindles. Must have also damaged the wheel. This tractor has had a beating. I am not sure if it is happier being brought back to life or if it would rather just sit in a field somewhere and rust away.

I had no joy today looking for parts locally. I will have to try my Napa shop tomorrow to see what they have for me. I want to get a new grease fitting in the steering gear before I reassemble. But I don't want to assemble it if I have to tap the hole. I would rather just use the press in fittings, but having a hard time finding the right one with the 9 degree bend.

I am hoping Brian receives my parts tomorrow and I hear from him. Looking forward to getting it back together!

Bob
Sounds like you got your hands full there!Just think how enjoyable it will be when your finished and operating that beauty of yours!
Jason

Wild Bill, There was no grease fitting or hole for a grease fitting. My axle was never drilled for a grease fitting from the factory. I had the axle out of the tractor and heated it to cherry with a torch. I reamed the hole lightly with a 3/4" drill bit to remove some of the crud. I wire brushed the outside of the axle. Absolutely no sign of a grease fitting through all of that. But it has one now.

So far this morning I chased the oil drain plug hole and installed a new plug. Hopefully no more oil leak! I can't believe how hard it was to find a 3/8" NPT tap! I also bought some new battery cables. Not exactly what I wanted, but it will do for now. Much better than the old ones for sure.

I still didn't find a 1/4" press fit angle grease zerk for the steering gear. I bought a straight fitting which will fit, but I am not sure if I will ever be able to get grease into the zerk. I am going to keep looking but at some point I am going to have to put it together and it will have a grease fitting this time!

My 70 and 100 did not have a grease zerk from the factory.
I was told that the 71, 1X2 and 123 (not sure) is when they added the grease zerk.

Bob

Sounds like you have made a lot of progress.

I'm guessing that your local dealer doesn't have or can't get the grease zirk?

Yosemite Sam, Now that would have just been too easy! To be quite honest I never thought of going to the cub cadet dealer for a grease fitting. I went to 2 Napa's, Autozone, Home Depot, Tractor Supply, and maybe somewhere else. Places I thought would carry grease fittings. I probably should start thinking about going to the dealer for stuff like that.

I did get the grease fitting in the one front wheel that takes a fitting. I needed to tap the treads as they were fried. Then I rolled the axle and wheels under the frame and installed it with a big bolt for now. That will make it easier to move around until I get a new axle pin. Feels like progress!

It was easier for me to work on the axle assembly off the frame and in a vise. Once I had it all together I rolled it under the frame and propped up the end of the frame with a cinder block. Then I used a big quick clamp to hoist the axle up into the frame yoke. That way everything was held in place and I was easily able to slide the bolt in place. It worked pretty slick!

Looking foward to see pics of the 100. making progress.;)

This is a Wide frame axle.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...eframe0109.jpg
In the center of the white area is the factory grease zerk. This was on the right rear side(driver on seat) when the axle was on the tractor.

I hope to see some pics soon too. nice to hear progress is being made somewhere.

M 100 doesn't have a zerk in the front axle either. The frame bushings are worn pretty good too.

Keith, You should check to see if your pin is frozen in the axle. It shouldn't be rotating in the frame. If it is you will get a lot of frame wear as those frame bosses are not made for that. When I removed the spiral pin which holds the axle pin in place it came out in 3 pieces because it had sheared off and the axle pin was held by the axle and rotating in the frame. Brian Miller makes a repair kit for the frame bosses. But I have seen the work you have done on other projects and I bet you could make your own and weld them on? The trouble for me was just getting the pin out of the axle and the axle out of the frame so I could work on it.

Merk, thanks for the photo. I wish I saw that before I put in my grease fitting. I just drilled into the bottom. I think it will work but I like the way that fitting is recessed in the casting like that. Less likelihood it will get broken.

Yeah, I'm sure the pin is rusted to the axle. Just one more thing I don't have time for.

Yup, In the 70/100 parts manual they do not show a zirk for the pivit in the axle.

I guess if you wanted one, you could get an axle from another narrow frame to replace it with.

I really don't like the idea of drilling a hole in the middle of the underside of the axle and putting a zirk in there. That one spot probably has more stress on it than any other place on the tractor.

On a new axle, it probably would, but on one with cuts in the front from the mule drive, the location of maximum stress would be in those wear marks. The axle is also thickest at the pivot point, so I don't think I would worry too much about it. I've seen a number of broken axles, none of which broke anywhere near the pivot pin...

Thanks for the encouragement Matt!

I got my stearing gear reassembled yesterday. I am just waiting for the gaskets to get it finished. Felt nice to be full of fresh grease!

I looked at my deck a couple times today. It is propped up against the outside wall of the garage since I took it off to work on the tractor. I pass by it every time I go in and out of the garage. I think I can fix it...

Pictures!
 

We got our camera battery charged. Long story...

Here are some current photos my cub. As you can see it is in pretty sad shape and torn apart. There are a couple close ups of problem areas. I have a crack in the frame right over the axle yoke. I would guess this happened when the spindle broke off and the axle dug into the pavement at high speed. I don't have any plan to fix this. I don't think it will be a problem? The other is of my drain plug. I replaced the plug and chased the threads in the pan. Is there anything special about this plug or am I just fine with a regular plumbing fitting? I could probably just chase these threads and it would be fine but for $.55 I replaced it. You can't see it too well but my hood is in bad shape. It is worn where it rests on the buttons by the wheel and the front hinge washers are broken off their spot welds. I am hoping to get this fixed, but not an urgent priority.

Still waiting on parts so I can put it all back together. I am posting pictures of my deck under the implements thread and of my wheels under the restoration thread if you care to look!

I gotta get to bed, but I know you and I were talking tires the other night...FYI, you have 16-6.50-8 fronts and looks like 23-8.50-12 rears, not the 4.80s and 6-12s you told me you have. That crack in the frame will continue to grow if you don't at least stop-drill the terminations. You should really weld that up.

Hey Matt, I was going by the manual and didn't look at the tires. I can barely make out the front, but you are absolutely right 16-6.5-8. The rears are 8x12. I think that opens up more options for the rear? What do I put on the front?

You've got a lot of options now. Hopefully some other people will chime in, as I'm kinda busy with too many things at the moment, but for what you were telling me you were going to do with it, I'd still recommend some sort of lug tire for the rear, whether they be Firestone 23s, Titan/Carlisle Tru-Powers or Super Lugs, or something else. For the fronts, I'd avoid the smooth mulit-rib tires like it would have originally come with. Those suck. You can get lug tires in that size, and Firestone makes 3-rib tires that size, but they are VERY expensive.

:Announce:

Hey Everyone!
I have not been on the site in a LONG time. I just noticed it was Jan 6, 2011! Then I noticed I haven't posted on my Cub 100 resurrection project since 2009. Oh boy, no wonder the wife is frustrated with that tractor :) But I just finished up with my project 100. I have decided not to do a complete restoration with paint, etc. But am going to sell this one and look for a hydro model. The hydro would be much better for me. It was a lot of fun to get back together, it only took a couple days as I had everything, except motivation. It runs amazingly well. I am happy to be done with it and will be sad to see it go. I learned a lot and made some friends along the way which is what it is all about anyway.

I have gone through everything and cleaned, greased and replaced anything broken or missing. It starts up very easily and runs strong without smoke. The engine is not an original, but an original factory short block was replaced prior to me getting the tractor. So the engine is not "original", but it has all the original tin work as it is the identical replacement to the original engine. The engine is very strong. I also had the clutch plates resurfaced and a new heavy duty clutch spring installed. The clutch works very well. The PTO clutch also works perfectly. All axle pins have been removed, cleaned and greased with new grease fittings where needed. I added a grease fitting to the main axle pivot pin. I removed the steering gear and cleaned it completely and installed fresh grease. It drives very well for a 50 year old machine! One reflector on the rear fender is broken and it does not have the front grill screen. All the tin, including the fenders are in good shape. I had to braze the front pivot bushings back onto the hood which caused some cosmetic damage. But the hood works very well.

I have a 682 that needs to be fixed. But I am not sure if I would rather have a 129...

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/p...pictureid=3522

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/p...pictureid=3523

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/p...pictureid=3524

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/p...pictureid=3525

Great to see you back, Bob! Thanks for the update on your 100.

Same here!

At least around here, places like Autozone, CarQuest, etc all carry zerks.... I'm sure Napa does too somewhere.