Lets get this clutch working again
 

Ok guys I just got my 100 home last nite. The guy I bought it from says the clutch is out. What are some things I can check to make sure what exactly is wrong?

The motor runs but when you push the clutch pedal down it is very hard to shift. Once in gear it goes great until you need to shift again. What could it be?

Number 12 the adjusting nut should be set so that there should be 3/16 of an inch between the clutch pedal and the pedal stop, the pilot bushing may need greased also it is in the center of number 8, the only way I know to do that is to unbolt the engine, slide it forward, and the pump it full of grease. It also might help if you replaced the friction disk number 7. When you say it doesn't shift well do you mean it grinds gears?

And here is the parts blow up.

As has been said, the pilot bushing may need to be relubed, but only smear enough grease over the end of the driveshaft to thinly coat it...no more. You don't want to glob a whole bunch in there and then have it get between the friction disc and pressure plates.

If it were mine, I'd replace the pilot bushing, driveshaft, teaser spring, main spring, throwout bearing, friction disc, the spirol pins, and have the pressure plates cleaned up on a lathe. It's not really worth the downtime to replace individual parts, like the friction disc, for instance, as everything else probably needs attention, too.

I highly suggest Mark Hellrung, one of our sponsors and member for turning your pressure plates. He did mine and they look great. And his price is great. He also has new drive shafts made of stainless. I bought one and once again, am very impressed with his work. I know for a fact he sells complete Clutch assemblies for around $175 plus your old core. All you have to do is install it.

And another one of our fine site sponsors too!

http://ihcubcadetparts.net46.net/1_2_Products.html

With all the good input you've gotten in this thread you'll be able to get that clutch working as it should in no time flat.:beer2:

thanks a lot guys. ive been busy tonite tearing this thing apart. I took a few pics of the clutch area before I stated. here they are.

Oh I would say you are ready for a complete new clutch.. That tractor won't know how to act with new momentum :). Looks quite tired and worn out in there.

and here is what it looks like right now...

I tell you what. Since you have it down that far, I would definitely take the steering column out and clean out the old grease and refresh it with new grease, and a Super Steering modification. Would be a good time to make sure the steering bearings are all good and the column is freshly adjusted. Isn't as hard as it sounds. Oh, Mark also sells the steering modification. I bought that too from him.

I do plan to do that. I plan on tearing this thing completly apart and redoing it. Im am new to all this so it may not be as nice a most others on here but Im still going to make the attempt. thanks.

You'll do fine. Some guys just are naturally good with rebuilds. I like to make sure it is mechanically sound then I worry about the looks. I wasn't sure how far you were going to go with it. Sounds like you have a good plan.. Keep us updated with everything. :IH Trusted Hand:

I know Im jumping way ahead of myself but what do you guys think of the vansicle federal yellow and transport yellow that they sell? is either a good match to use on my cub? the reason I ask is I have a gallon of each given to me. I thought about adding some hardener in whichever I decided to use if anyone thinks one will match? thanks.

I have been using vansickel transport yellow rattel cans on some small parts on my 122 and it is a close match to the original paint.

thanks ljones. i appreciate the info.

Thank you guys for the kind words, it's good to know that there are still people out there who appreciate quality and don't necessarily accept just anything that someone shoves across the counter to them.

HOWEVER, please know that I just sold the last three shafts I had on the shelf this past week (I didn't get to use ANY of the last batch for myself!). Tuesday I will order another stick of stainless and will start making another batch of shafts as soon as it comes in.

Thank you guys for all the business, it is really great to get to be a small part of so many repairs, restorations and customizing jobs!

Mark

ok guys I officially have this 100 completly apart. I mean every thing. here is a better look at the clutch. I think the spring is bad.....what do you think? lol.

Also I ended up cutting the axle pin on each side with a sawzall to get it out. The remainder of the pin is really stuck in the axle good. you can see it in the pic. whats the best way to get this out? (without damaging the axle) thanks.

Yeah, your spring looks like someone has gotten ALL the use out of it that they're going to.

Chances are, when you take the clutch apart you will find that the shaft is badly worn, the throw out bearing will probably also be bad... It's sad that so many parts on a clutch/drive shaft need to be replaced to make it work properly, but the shaft drive is one of the things that sets our Cubs apart from everything else. Once you get it rebuilt you will realize that it is SOOO worth the cost.

Good luck with your 100, it is a true classic.

Thank you and the rest of our site sponsers! We couldn't do what we do without your support!

Ok guys I need to get back on this thing. On the clutch lever that goes on the shaft. Is the hole in it suppose to be a perfect circle? Does anyone have a picture of one so I can compare? Thanks

Got a pic of the one that you have now? It might be faster to post a pic of both sides and then we can tell you if it's still good or not.

I can get one tomorrow afternoon. Been really busy at work. But im excited to get back to working on this 100. Thanks

The hole will be longated not round.

like this???

Yeah, that looks right.

ok my next questions is this.... can a throwout bearing be salvaged? I stumbled on a website that says you can drill a hole in the bearing, clean with gasoline, refill with grease, and reseal the hole with gasket sealer. Would this work?

I saw that on BM's site. I don't think I would do that. It would pobably work but if it is messed up on the inside you would be tearing back into it to save $20.

20 bucks??? where can I get a new one for that?? thanks

You can't. They're about $40 from CC and everywhere else. I also would recommend not following that advice given on Brian Miller's page.

Dang, they are more then $20. I got one a year ago and didn't remember paying that much. Sorry.