3235 hydrostat
 

Has anyone torn into the differential unit on their 3200 series? Just wondering what Im in for this weekend when I yank it out and split the halves apart. Also if anyone has a repair manual and wouldnt mind emailing me the teardown and assembly procedures, it would be greatly appreciated. I wont make it to the dealer to get a manual before I start teardown. Gotta keep this tractor running, it is my only mode of snow removal short of a shovel! LOL!! :bigthink:

What is wrong with it?

The other night when I finished plowin snow and was backing into my shed, it just STOPPED. Then when I went forward made this odd scraping sound. Sounds kinda like a maybe a ring gear bolt backed out or something along those lines. After I moved it forward for a little bit, then it seemed fine. But Im not gonna take a chance!

3000 series
 

I have had a couple apart and have some used parts avail. they are not real fun to work on.is yours the cast iron rear or aluminum?

Mine is cast iron. I work as a mechanic, it cant be any worse than some of the cars I work on. I already know the rear fenders and the fuel tank have to come out to get the thing out of the frame. And the axle nuts have to come off the split the case apart.

Tore the trans out of the 3235 yesterday morning, and tore it apart. I found all 4 differential bolts loose!! They were backed out about a 1/2" and rubbing the drive gear. The gear survived, but 3 of the bolts didnt have any head left and 1 was bent. I couldnt believe there was no lock washers or thread locker on these bolts!!!!! Well, they do NOW!!!! All back together and running like new again!!! This trans was VERY simple to tear apart, even without a service manual.:biggrin2::biggrin2:

Great news! Glad you put it back together the right way.

Best news I've had in a long time! LOL!

Here are some pics.

Pa Cooner

Would you have a better set of photos of the plow setup on your 3235?

It looks completely different than the one I have on my 3235

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...ttke/82680.jpg

Dont hold me to it, but I think the plow came off of a 1420 model cub. It required some modifications to make it work. I had to lengthen it by about 8inches, and I had to remove my front pto pulleys for clearence. It bolts to the hitch hole in the rear, then has a plate that mounts in the front quick latch. i used a piece of chain around the deck lift arms and under the plow spine to lift it with the hydraulics. It works good so far. If i get a chance, I will take some pics of it tonight when I get home.

Plow pics. The plate in the front keeps the plow from walking side to side. It had to be modified in the middle for the extra length of this tractor. The chain utilizes the factory mower lift arms to lift the plow. The backend of the plow bolts to the hitch hole in the drawbar. The only downside to this plow is that it is only 42" wide. 46" would be much better. This setup actually went on easier than what I thought it would. Best part is the whole thing, tractor, plow and all repairs to get it running so far, I have a total of $125 bucks in it! :beerchug:

Well for that price you defently can't go wrong.

Seeing how it is attached now, I can defently tell it aint the plow setup made for your tractor.

Heres what the book shows for a 3235
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f.../3235hitch.gif
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f.../3235blade.gif

A bit more complicated and not so easy to take off in the spring and put back on in the fall.

Yeah lonny. It is much simpler to hook up. I can have it off of the tractor in like 10 mins tops! And as long as this works, Im not gonna bother looking for the proper plow. It is only manual angle, but Im young! LOL!!