149 blow by
 

Hi all, I have come here from the another CC site. I was a reader with a few questions now and then. BTW, I really like this site!
My question today is about my 149. I have owned it for two years now and it has never let me down but it has always had blow by from the dipstick. Now it has some smoke from the exhaust, not terrible mostly when starting or under load and it's not a heavy smoke. It runs good with no knocks, pings, etc.... Would this be valves, worn rings or both? It also uses about a 1/4 qt or so of oil after mowing 3 hours with it. What will it eventually do, just quit or will it slowly start loosing power and compression? As you have figured out by now I don't know to much about working on the engines. I have just never took the time to tear into one.

I am just trying to get by with it until I find one of two tractors to replace it with. One is a CC and I can't mention the other on on here. I will be keeping this one and probably take a shot at a rebuild once another is secured and in service.
This is not my first CC, I had a 1650 that broke a rod and I sold and then regretted it and found this 149. I can't decide which I like the best. I am a little tough on them but do keep up the maintenance.

I know it's hard to make a diagnosis without seeing and hearing it but take a shot. Tell me what to look for or at.

Thanks

It's probably mostly worn rings and piston/bore, but bad valve guides will also let some oil past. Some oil consumption is normal, but that's pretty excessive. I think it's time for a rebuild...

This is just a guess!!!!!!! I also am weak on motor diagnosis!!! BUT there will be others who come along that have a ton of experience with the engine.Ill soon be digging into my first engine.

Maybe the rings,this is just a guess but you say its blowing out the dipstick so the crankcase is pressureized,and its using oil and smoking.
Like I said a guess!!!
WELCOME!!!!!
:Wave::Welcome2:

under edit, Oh man Matts A faster typer!!!! Hes one of the experts though!!!

Can I expect it to last a while yet? As I said, it runs great. How will it die, slowly or unexpectedly/suddenly?

Hard to say. Eventually, it'll get harder and harder to start to the point where you won't be able to start it because it either doesn't have enough compression or because it oil fouls the plug instantly. However, I'd still take it apart and rebuild it rather than wait for it to die, as metal fatigue has taken its toll on the piston and rod by this point as well...you don't want the piston or rod to break and put a window in the block. Then you're really in trouble. If it starts knocking, then it's definitely time for a rebuild. Connecting rod failure isn't far away at that point.

"A stitch in time saves nine" In this case the sooner you act the more money you will save. Don't let her die and then fix her. Give her a rest and a new life. I also favor the rings/cylinder needing attention.

Guys,

I also have a K241 in a 108 that is blowing a little blue smoke, especially when putting a load on the engine. Not excessive smoke, but noticeable at all times even after warm up. I planned on pulling the head anyway to check out the carbon build up and valve seats but I remembered that I have a drill-operated honing gizmo. So, is it advisable to go ahead and hone the cylinder and install new rings? And can anyone direct me as to how to hone the cylinder walls and get that nice cross-hatched look or does that kind of happen naturally? Sorry for the hijack but it might help Cub 149 too. Thanks.

Rich

On one hand you should have someone with experience do this. On the other hand you want the experience. Before you go any further you will need some cylinder gages. And know how to read them. And I'm stopping here because I could go on about the process.

Best thing yo can do is take your motor to a automotive machine shop and let them do the work. They have the proper equipment and know how to do the job right. I will rebuild 4 to 8 motors a year and let my local automotive machine shop do the machine work.

You can use your drill-operated honing gizmo and hone the cylinder wall. Odds are the cylinder wall will be out of spec per a Kohler manual. The rings, piston, connecting rod and governor are replaced everytime I rebuild a motor.

You can do cheap way and "just replace the rings".....Two to three years later the motor will be smoking again. Spend the money upfront and your motor will last for 10 to 20 years.

So I could slip one in and no one would notice? :biggrin2.gif:

Nice thought....I would notice.

I'm looking for motors to rebuild.

149 blowby
 

Hi, I had a similar problem with a model 100. Invested in rebuild: new rings, valves and had valve seats reground, knurled vavle guides, bore only need honing,
put on a good used head, and replaced carb with better used one. By the time I was done, it cost about $400 bucks. I did the tear down and reinstallation myself. The engine assembly I had done, since it was in shop already. An amazing difference! Much more power, uses 1/2 the gas to mow same area, and saved 1/3 of mowing time. I did this 7 years ago. The only problem since then was replacing head gasget. It burned out by the 3 bolts by exhaust vavle.

Thanks for all the advice. The problem I have is the tractor can't be down for more than a week. It is the only one I have to mow with. I know what you are thinking, what if it breaks? Well, there is one solution. I found this on ebay and was hoping one of you rebuilders would check it out for me. Ask the guy specific questions or pick his brain to see if you think he knows what he is doing. I realize it is a shot in the dark but I would atleast have two engines to work with. Hopefully this one would hold out until I get the one I have rebuilt. Here is the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...lenotsupported

And no, I wouldn't hold anything against anyone that thinks it is good and it turns out to be a dog. I know it is impossible to know anything about it without a hands on but if you know what to ask, atleast you can tell by his answers if he really rebuilt it or what his knowledge is, etc........

I have read the advice and greatly appreciate it guys but here is where I am. This is a 108 I bought for $25, the pan is rusted out pretty bad, it has no attachments and honestly, I really don't need it. I have a few other tractors that get pampered and I'll will keep them for years, but I have a buddy whose Son really wants to give garden tractor pulls a try. We want to stay stock and low budget. With the honing and rings, I was looking for a way to improve compression and power a bit.

I'll ask this question:

What is the worst that can happen and what might be the likely result?

Not trying to tempt fate here guys or test your patience; just thinking out loud. Thanks.

Rich

Great question.

Pulling is a game of inches. Sometimes a pull is won by an inch or two. Having the motor in a puller at it's peak is a must to be competive no matter what class the tractor is in.

Worse case the motor will be hard to start-be hard to get any decent compression and down on power.

I would run the motor as it is to see if the friends' Son likes pulling. If he does working on the puller would be a good way for him to learn the mechcanical end of pulling.

The motor could be worth something when you want to upgrade to a stronger motor in a few years if you spend the $$ on the motor now. You never know when another puller may want to buy the motor. Hearing the motor run while going the track can be a good selling tool.



I had a gentleman who has a IH Cub Cadet 1000 that was smoking. He wanted me to look at motor and give him a price on rebuilding the motor. After measuring the cylinder wall for taper and out of round according to a Kohler service manual (page 11.2). The motor was on max limits before any machine work was done. I wanted to go to an .010 oversize piston and rings. The owner did not want to put anymore money in the motor than he had to. Owner just wanted to hone it, install new rings and use old piston. The old piston was in need of replacement. It had some scoring on the piston skirt.

I did manage to talk the owner into new piston, rings and hone the cylinder. There were some fine scoring marks still in the cylinder wall after the hone. He manage to get around 100 hours before the motor start smoking again. This time the motor needed an .020 piston. Motor should have just getting broke in with a 100 hours on it.....not rebuilding it again. Piston, rings and gasket kit isn't cheap.

Most times you can get 2 major rebuilds out of a motor before it needs to be replace or sleeved. A major rebuild should last 10 to 15 years if the owner takes care of the motor.

my 126 needs new rings, one day i was mowing tall grass with it and you really couldnt beleve how heavy it was breathing. You can also tell when your old cub needs a rebuild she loses her power like mine.