1882/2082 engine extrange
 

Are the engines from the 1882 and the 2082 interchangeable? Specifically the 20hp into the 1882 tractor.
I'm asking as my 1882 has developed a serious oil leak. Not burning - just leaking. I haven't been able to determine yet, where the leak is coming from. Just happened to notice it on the driveway under the front - approximately between the tires. As time permits I will start removing guards and panels to get an approximation of where the problem is.
Thanks

Yeah it's the same motor so swap is a breeze. You're not looking at the one offered in MI are you? Way too much money for a used motor. Seals are cheap and easy. I need a 18M for a build I'm working one so send yours my way.


Oil travels BTW and where it drips from is not necissarily where it leaks from.




Scott

Thanks Scott for the answers and input.

yeah take your time pin pointing that leak as it could be a very simple fix. I'm with murphy, if it's a good running engine, i'd just repair that one even if its a seal

My PTO side seal on my Onan went last Friday, I was on an incline grading a driveway and the oil flowed back into the flyweel fan and blew everywhere including the air cleaner and began to smoke. Thought I blew the motor. I ordered the bearing plate gasket and new seal yesterday and they cost me $33 shipped, Onan parts are 2-3 times the cost of Kohler. I'd like to have that 20 Magnum myself but not at $400+ and not at a 3rd party word that's it's a good motor.

Scott

At least a couple of bidders thought the eBay engine was a deal at over $600.00

Yeah, there is a limited supply of product out there and guys are humgry for it.

Scott

Gosh i think i'd rather bite the bullet and buy a newly rebuilt engine with some kind of warranty or have mine professionally rebuilt rather than pay 600.00 for something that could be junk.

Source of the leak ??
 

After removing the heat shields and guards, it "appears" my oil leak is coming from behind the pto.
I may try to mow a little bit with it to confirm, but I'm pretty confident of its location.
So, any helpful do's and/or don'ts before I tear in any further?
If responding, please remember I'm mechanically challenged and need to be talked to as such.
Thanks for the help

That's the easiest seal to replace on the engine. Time to get a service manual for the tractor if you don't already have one. Start by disconnecting the battery and removing the heat shield from around the muffler. It'll probably help a lot to remove the nose, hood, and side panels as well. Disconnect the PTO clutch wire, and get out your impact wrench and remove the bolt in the center of the pulley of the PTO clutch. Remove the washer and spacer and put them aside. Take off the 3 adjustment nuts for the clutch, at which point you can slide off the ring that was under the 3 nuts, the pulley, and whatever other parts slide off at this point (been awhile since I've had one off, I can't remember exactly how many pieces there are). Now, you can remove the 4? bolts holding the coil on. I would also remove the muffler to let you see what's going on. It's usually easiest to spray some PB blaster on the 4 nuts that hold the manifolds on and remove the manifolds and muffler as an assembly. Be careful taking those off so you don't twist a stud off. It's ok if the stud turns instead of the nut, as long as it's turning and not twisting off. Clean up the front of the engine and all of the parts you removed.

Now to remove the seal, they make seal pullers, but I usually use an assortment of screwdrivers and those little things that you pry up small nails with (don't know what they're called). You can also take an old flat screwdriver and grind the end into a hook. Pry out the old seal and clean the hole in the engine and the area on the crankshaft where the seal rides. Also, this would be a good time to clean any rust off the end of the crankshaft with some emery paper to make the clutch go back on easier. To install the new seal, you should lubricate the surface that rides on the crank with some grease, oil, petroleum jelly, etc. They even make oil seal lube. When installing the new seal, make sure not to cock it in the hole...slowly drive it in with a block of wood and a small hammer, alternating hits around in a circle around the edge of the seal...basically, don't keep hitting the same side to drive it in. When the seal is flush with the engine block, the seal is in as far as it goes. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly; however, I'd put a small amount of anti-seize compound on the crankshaft before you put the clutch on so that it can't rust to the crank and give you trouble in the future. I would also put it on all bolts that you removed, especially the exhaust manifold studs/nuts. Torque everything to the spec in the manual. The manual also tells you how to set the air gap on the PTO clutch, which you'll need to do after you've removed it.

Thanks so much. I'll let you know how bad I mess it up. LOL

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinec.../52_590_02.pdf


Here is the manual.

Scott

Awesome. Thanks ever so much "all" of you. I'm getting more confident every day.

Can anyone share the specific part number of the seal I'll be needing to make this repair?
Thanks Again

CM:

As found in the Parts Manual.....

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...l/1-1882-A.jpg

Again - ThanksMuch,

HOLD UP!

He needs part #10, NOT part #20 in there....Roland, you showed the flywheel end seal. He needs the PTO end crank seal.

KH-52-032-08

CM:

:Sorry:

Matt is right. I got the wrong end of the motor. My bad.:bash2:

Beggers can't be choosy. Just imagine me trying to figure out why the part I was attempting to install looked very little like the part removed. LOL It would not have been pretty.

Is there a link to the manual you folks are sharing here? The one received earlier in this thread doesn't include the parts breakouts.
Thanks

CM:

You can get a Service Manual from here.... Manual

You can look up parts from two sources...

(A) Get your Kohler Model and Spec number and go here.......Parts and login as a "Guest"

(B) Click on this link with your tractor model number.... Cub Cadet

:IH Trusted Hand:

So....I replaced the seal. Everything went surprisingly well (hardware all came off without incident). Alas....it continues to leak from the new seal. I THOUGHT/THINK I was careful and installed it correctly. But NOOOooooo. Oh well, I'll try one more time before punting it to a professional.

As an aside. Retailers sure do like to tack shipping onto their sales (even when they hand the in stock item across the counter to you) $11.75 to $15.00 for a $3.50 seal. Cut me a break.

If it's still leaking, I wonder if your crankcase breather is functioning correctly. You can make a U-tube manometer to check the crankcase vacuum. If there is no vacuum, it might be developing pressure and blowing oil out past the seal.

I'd find a new dealer, they shouldn't be charging you shipping even if they have to order it, or at least mine doesn't. If it's the breather that's a simple and cheap fix.

About the pricing;

First stop - price plus freight
Second stop - in stock $11.76
Third via phone - in stock $13 and change
Fourth - $3 plus $10.00 freight

So on and so forth.

CM:

I would to offer you some insight on shipping as being a owner of a business. I have parts shipped in all the time, several times a week from a variety of vendors and suppliers. Each has their own shipping and cost policies. Some charge a "handling" on top of the actual freight charge. The days of $2.00 shipping are long gone. The minimum shipping that I see (UPS or FedEx) is $8.00

There are two types of orders. (A) Normal Stock Orders, and (B) Specialty Orders. Normal Stock orders usually require a Dollar or Weight value to hit and is usually free shipping from the supplier. Usually this order is a couple of hundred dollars at a minimum. Specialty (hurry up and get it here) orders that don't meet the Normal Stock criteria, are subject to the actual freight costs and often a $5.00 handling charge. So, it is nothing to see a $13.00 freight charge.

It has been MY policy in my business, to charge for these "Special" orders since it benefits only the individual requesting the parts. Of course, I am up front about it too and give them the choices. I do not charge freight on Normal Stock orders.

I find most business have the above policy or something close.

BUT, as with anything, ask UP FRONT before you order anything and ask for options.

I understand the charging for shipping on specials or rush orders. Not so understanding for the in stock items. That said, I paid it once, and if need be, will again.

OK, I'll bite. But I find no mention of a crankcase breather in my manual. I do see "oil pressure relief valve". But the photos are so poor I'm not sure what I'm looking at.
On my tractor - viewing from the front - there is a tube between the air cleaner and the top-left of the motor. It terminates at a cover. Under that cover is an orange diaphram and a piece of very course, crumbly, filter material.
Am I getting anywhere close to what you're referring to?

Thanks

that is your breather.

OK! So what am I looking for - as far as correct functioning goes?

Sometime it seems like customer is getting ripped.I just ordered a stumpjumper blade assy for woods bush hog at work was given estimate of
$370 when came in was $465 did not ask for rush shipping.I would think that the item could have been included in a stock order or been given the option of special ordering. To me just another black mark on that dealer.

CM:

:HeadScratch:

The crankshaft is in good order......there is no gouges or scratches not allowing the seal to do it's job...???

The current leak is definitely coming from where the shaft and the seal meet. You can actually see it blowing out - plus I positioned a piece of cardboard out front to 'catch' the spray.

I thought the shaft felt smooth to the touch - but maybe I should focus on the key way specifically (that I did not do)

As one who is both mechanically disinclined and a cheapskate all this input is very helpful. I believe all the needed manuals are here and together now. So some of what you folks tell me may start to make more and more sense.

ThanksAgain. And please don't lose patience.

Yes your breather tube comes out of one of the valve covers. Clear or replace the tube and clean breather or replace breather filter.

I suspect something else is awry though. Seals are directional, is it in backwards? Burrs on the crank?

Scott

The seal was put in spring side first, and flush with the housing (tapped in gently using the rounded handle end of a screwdriver)
__________________________________________
NEW INFORMATION
I can move the shaft in and out, maybe 1/8 of an inch. There is no movement up and down or side to side. (this is a horizontal engine).

Some endplay is normal, but that seems excessive.

Talked to a couple of small engine guys today. They seem to think I have a valve issue - stuck likely.

Sure hope my Craftsman deck shows up soon. That'll take the pressure off the Cub repair.

A stuck valve will make your engine run like crap, but I don't know why it'd pressurize the crankcase and blow oil past the seals. I'd still check out the crankcase breather.

I removed the crankcase breather cover, but I don't know what I'm looking for as far as proper functioning goes.
What is the next step?

In order to tell if it's working correctly, you should really measure the crankcase vacuum (with the breather reinstalled). To do this, you can make a U-tube manometer (I've attached the service manual page that explains it) and connect it up. If you don't have a vacuum, then the breather is most likely your problem. If you do, then it's something else.

I'm trying to remember what the Kohler twin breather looks like inside, but I think you're looking for a dirty or broken reed valve, for starters. Deteriorated gaskets don't help either.

Thanks Much.