CC 189 Sub Super
 

I have been working on making a 189 Sub Super from an 1860 and a 149. If you are interested in how it started, what I have done to this point and for pictures you can look at this thread, http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=6202

I haven't worked on it in months but just got back to it yesterday. I got all of the fenders and dash fit with spacers to fit the super front and rear tires. My next big obstacle was the front grille from the 149 mating up with the wider front frame of the 1860. I cut the front of the frame off of the 149 and cut out a section from the 1860 frame for it to fit into. I wanted to make it look as close to a factory job as I could so I used the rounded edges from the 1860 frame and angled them up and welded them to the 149 frame piece to make a "saddle" for the engine. I then filled in with steel and welded it all together.

Here are a series of pictures. The first one is what I started with (1860).
#2 and 3 are showing how wide the front of the frame is on the 1860 and how the grille from the 149 didn't match up.
#4 and 5 are pics of fitting the 149 front frame in.
the rest are of the finished product.
The last picture, well I thought I would take a permanent marker and make a temporary decal for inspiration for me. And yes that is a 1250 dash. I wanted to use the hydro lever on the right of the dash instead of the left.
I choose the name Sub Super but saw that Scott Murphy had used it also, sorry for stealing your name but it is just to good not to use. I tried Micro Super and some others but they just don't have the "to the point" sound of Sub Super. Do you have any ideas of a name with Super in it that would work, i.e. Micro Super. I'll listen to anything you can come up with.

Things left to do are install power steering, find a cat0 3pt hitch, try to work out a set of turning brakes, etc....... I might be done with it next year.

This probably isn't that great to most of you but I am having a blast and learning a ton about these machines in the process. My fabrication skills are probably a little archaic but hey, it's getting done none the less. There is still a ton of work to do but just thought I would share what I have done so far.
Thanks to all that have helped me out so far with answers to questions and parts.

I forgot one thing, I need to figure out how to exit the muffler exhaust. Not sure if I want to take it through the front grille or try to pipe it out the side somehow? Any ideas on that?

Looking good Chip!

This is going to be very interesting. Looking forward to seeing how this progresses. :beerchug:

Nice job, Chip! Thanks for the update. :beerchug:

That thing looks like a beast with the 149 grill and big front tire combination

Looks awesome Chip! I think it would look sweet if you could figure out a way to rout the exhaust on the side somehow, resembling a diesel....awesome progress! :beerchug:

Jeff (teet)

The easy way to route the exhaust would probably be out the front using a QL grille screen. It doesn't look like there is much room to bring it out the side. About the only thing I could think of that might be close would be the muffler from a JD317, as they used a Kohler twin with a side-exit muffler.

Thanks, now that's a good idea. I'll try that out.

Thanks Matt, I looked at a 317 muffler and the exit pipe is to far forward on the end cap.
I googled muffler and found this write up on a guy making a muffler. I think this is exactly what I will do and I can get the exhaust pipe exiting where I need it on the end cap. It will have to be towards the back side since the front part of the end cap is behind the front grille. I will open up the one that is on it now and see what condition it is in. If good I think it will work and be cheap enough.
Oh well, I still have plenty of time to work that out. I'm not even close to worrying about the engine. Wiring will be the largest hurdle for me. I do have a friend that is knowledgeable about circuitry so hopefully we can get it worked out.

:Bowdown2: I like it, I have been thinking about a couple different projects that I would like to do and I think that a rebody is climbing the list. You are doing a great job, looks awesome!:beer2:

If you opt to exhaust out the front, take a look on my post in this forum "Electric PTO installation in a 1X8, 1X9 series". Here I replaced the plastic 149 grill with expanded metal from Home Depot and cut a hole for a QL muffler. I attached the expanded metal with 1/4" bolts/nuts instead of the spring clips, had to enlarge the holes in the housing a bit. I don't care much for those plastic grills anyway.

Thanks. I looked at your post and it looks good, I'll keep that as an option

I edited this post because it didn't make sense!!! and I think I may have figured it out in the next post.

OK, I was a little confused:HeadScratch:
I went back an looked the the drawing of the brake set up again. I was thinking it used both brake set ups but I was wrong, duh.
This is what I am coming up with.

Pull out the cross shaft from the old braking system and put in the SGT one. In the diagram below (for a 2072) part # 14 would have to be moved to the right side to catch the brake linkage #11 on the SGT. That way I can leave the neutral linkage where it is now on the 1860 (this is where #10 is on the SGT)
I will have to lenghthen the pedals a good bit. I think this will work. Any thoughts?
I am a little confused on one area still. Where part #'s 10, 11, and 14 hook together. I understand that the slot is so when using the turning brakes the linkage for the left pedal floats so it doesn't work the brakes or hydro neutral. What I can't figure out is when you step on the left brake it will only pull the left brake. There is no connection between the left and right brakes unless you use the locking lever on the turning brakes to connect them. I need this explained to me.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...tebrakes-1.png

I have brakes and PS!
 

I figured out the turning brakes and have it all installed. I had to lengthen the pedals, add a piece where the brake rods connect so I could put the return springs on. I was able to use the old brackets that where on there but had to change out the bushings, the ones on it had a lip on the outside of the bracket that took up to much room, so I welded on the bushings that came with the 2072 brakes.
In the diagram above, part #14, I was able to move it over to the right side and use it with the original linkage from the 1860. I tapped a hole and used a bolt to hold it in place to find the correct position for it. I will drill and pin it once I get the tractor running and can make final adjustments.

The power steering wasn't to bad. I used one out of a 2072. I was able to use the bracket that was with it. I cut part off the bracket off then heated, bent and drilled holes to match up with the mounting holes of the manual steering. I will have to shorten the steering column a few inches as it is way to long.

The third picture is of the original set up on the 1860.

It's getting there, but still a lot to do.

Looks great, Chip! Thanks for the update. :beerchug:

Looking good! You might want to consider making new linkages between the pedal arm and the brake caliper, as the supers don't have the spring in there, it's just a plain rod.

Thanks for the complements.

Yeah, I have the solid rods from the 2072 but everything is offset to get the pedals over enough to clear the rockshaft and rod that will go to a front blade. This being said, it puts the linkage on the right off a good bit and it binds. I will have to ream out the hole to make it work. I really want them on there so the brake pedal pushes the brake pads of the rotor open and you don't have to rely on those really weak springs on the pads to keep the pads open.

It looks great!

That thing is going to be beastly when you get her done. The heart of a super and the vintage good looks of 1x9 series, I'm sooo jealous. Nice work man!

dual remote hydraulics
 

Well after a lot of work and test fitting I think I have the dual hydraulics figured out. I can't afford a nice dual valve so I used what I had, two single valves, one from a 149 and the other from a 1450. I mounted one on the left side that will be for the lift cylinder. I was able to use the handle from a 149, just reversed everything so the handle would be on the left side.
The valve for the front remotes is on the right side of the pedestal and I used the PTO lever from a 149 to work it with. I had to cut the handle shorter since it had to be mounted up so high. I had to make a spacer for the valve to clear the hydro lever, man is it tight inside that pedestal! I like this set up because it keeps the looks of the 149, only difference is the levers are on the opposite sides that they should be on.
I spent a day and a half just making the hydraulic lines. I've never done that before and it was a challenge. All of the bends had to be spot on. I have to brag here, I only made on bad bend and had to throw that line out. I just pray that there are no leaks. I used a 37° flaring tool, a cheap one but it sure looked like good flares to me and it flared the tubing easily.
I put the drive-shaft in place to work around to make sure I cleared it. I couldn't think of anything else that would be in the area so I went for it.
Since there are so many lines under the power steering valve I think I will make a skid plate for extra protection. This will never have a mowing deck on it so the plate wouldn't be in the way. Also, in the pictures, the steering valve isn't as low as it looks. It is right where the steering is on an 1862.

That looks great Chip! The bends look great too!

Thats awsome, I can't wait to see it in action!!

Thanks Duke and Dale. Hey, "Duke and Dale", that sounds like a movie or a song title.

I don't know how it will turn out but I have to say, I have learned more about CCs from doing this than anything I have done so far. If it aint so great it is still a great experience that I wouldn't regret for one second.

Personally I like the Chip and Dale movies better!

Nice job, Chip! :beerchug:

I seen his name and just knew someone would "go there" hahaha

I went there and signed my name!

You sure did didn't you. I should have seen that one coming:biggrin2:

Isn't it about time for another update? I've been waiting, I need some inspiration and some warm weather to get my butt in gear.:Whistle:

I agree....Your doing pretty good so far....definately time for an update!? :WWP: :WWP:

Thanks for asking, actually I just got through with my last hydraulic lines. I ran a set of hard lines to the front for my front remotes. Since I used an 82 series lift cylinder I had to shorten the soft lines and have new end couplings (that fit the old style valve) put on at the tractor shop yesterday and installed them today. I have the hydraulics finished:beerchug:
I took the starter off the M18 and cleaned it. I also had to put a new return spring on and new boot, now it works nice and smooth.
I am now having to retro-fit the air breather assembly. It bumps the gas tank so I need to move it forward about 3/4" . I have a couple of options in mind, just haven't taken the plunge yet.
The biggest thing coming up is to make a new wiring harness. Once that is done it will be ready to start up and test drive. Oh, and put in new axle seals. And I am sure I am forgetting something but I'm close to having a driver. Then it will have to be completely taken apart and painted:angry:
I haven't had as much time lately to work on it but it's coming along. I have a new project now that is not Cub related, an 82 VW Diesel Rabbit ( so I can drive to work for about $15/week vs my truck at $75/wk.

Got a pic of your air filter interference problem? The early KT-17's had a flat air cleaner that might work...

I have to say I have invested alot of money in my flaring and bending tools. And your bends and routing look great real good job. Can't wait to see more pics.:Bowdown2:

Thanks for the update pics, Chip! :ThumbsUp:

That project looks killer! Good luck with the vw rabbit diesel- that will save some serious bucks! :beerchug:

holy hydraulics lol. i cant wait to see this beast finished! keep up the good work :beerchug:

:Bowdown2: Thanks I needed that! Great work!

Here are some pics of the air breather assembly problem. As you can see the filter is to close to the gas tank and the lid will not go on. I already moved the tank back as far as it will go. Do you know of an assembly that will fit? I have some options to fix this but if I could find a bolt and go unit that would be great!