Inside the K181 - take a look
 

Well..... In my expert opinion it looks like the "do-hicky" gear busted which made all of the "thingy-ma-bobs" fly everywhere and break the camshaft. I apologize for using all the highly technical terms, but I don't want anyone to know that I have no idea what I am talking about. Good news is the cylinder walls still show the factory crosshatch, the piston still has the machining marks and the rod journal looks prefect. I have not checked the ring gap yet because I am still planing to replace it all anyway, just need to find the tool box with all my engine hones and cylinder dial meters.

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Only ran into one setback getting the engine off when the clutch "springs" shot off and vanished, I did manage to find two of them. I also found that the clutch "flex plate" is cracked. One question I have is how do you get the flywheel off this engine?

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Ouch!!! :bigeyes:

:bigthink: I hope the Governor gear in my 169 doesn't look that bad LOL. At least it was nothing too catastrophic. Keep us posted.

Ouch! Typical fragged junk plastic governor gear. It would be nice to try and locate a metal replacement, but they are getting hard to find. Cant say Ive seen a cam break like that, but when things let go in these engines, its always a surprise when you open them up. Thankfully the cylinder is in great shape as you say....looks like a strait forward repair :biggrin2.gif:

Jeff (teet)

Okay then.... So my "do-hicky" gear is the governor gear? Learned something new already. Thanks for the info

As soon as I seen the plastic gear in pieces I knew I was not the first person to have seen one bust. Why would they use plastic? That is some straight up box store Briggs & Stratton stuff there.

I'm pretty sure it boils down to manufacturing cost...but I'm not certain. All the new replacements that are currently available are plastic, unless you can locate a NOS or used metal gear which is obviously more durable. Ive rebuilt engines with both metal and plastic...the plastic ones definitely wont last forever, but they usually last quiet a while.

Jeff (teet)

back to your question...
 

pull that bushing out of the aluminum hub your screen is over, and you will find a large nut. remove the screen, crankshaft nut and washer, then, using a puller( should have 2 threaded holes in flywheel, 180 degrees apart) put some tension on flywheel against crankshaft. I agree with most here. tap on puller and flywheel should come loose fairly easily.

so as not to confuse you
 

looks as if the screen comes off last on a k -181. in your pics there are no screws holding the screen to the flywheel.

Photos
 

Thats an excellent set of photos. Very informative. Cameras, photography and website has come a long way in the last few years.
Dave

Thank you for that info. Once I got the bushing out I removed the large nut then the aluminum hub and screen came out together, no screws holding the screen itself.

And the story comes together. Looks like one of the many pieces of metal got caught between the cam lobe and tappet.

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I suggest putting the large nut back on when you start to remove the flywheel. That thing can fly off and land right on your toes, ask me I know :bash2:. It will pop pretty loud when it breaks free.

Actually it didn't pop at all. I bolted on the puller, tightened the draw bolt down about a quarter turn past hand tight and tapped the flywheel once. That is what you get when the engine was stored in a temperature controlled garage for the last 35 years, no "rust welding" going on here.

keep nut on...
 

thats sound advise. I luckily never had one launch.

Your engine has a story written in about 1-2 seconds...

youre great with a camera
 

you need to replace that entire governor shaft . There should be a 'flag' welded onto the end of the shaft that runs through the case to the throttle control governor linkage. The 'flag' is what the governor gear's weights push against that resist high rpms without load.

Incredible pictures! You're lucky in that when she broke, she quit running pretty much right there. No scoring of the cylinder wall. Lucky.

I got the one that didn't let loose, and somebody ran the snot of my engine. I was able to rebuild it without too much trouble though. About the only difference is you have to find a camshaft for yours.

Check those big ball bearings for the crankshaft - if they ingested some bits-n-pieces during the post "ah, crap" spin down, they might need replaced as well.

That is exactly why we NEVER re-use a plastic governor. Also check the teeth on the crank shaft, you don't want any chips or other damage there either.

I found the "flag" in the oil pan and I half suspect it is what caused the broken cam, or it may have been a pin out of the governor gear.

I have found new bearings for $15 each, so I am going to replace them either way. The bearing on the output side seemed a little "sticky" feeling, I don't want to risk another tear down.

Nice pics Roanoker . Thanks for sharing . Good luck on your rebuild .
I'm just down the road from you in the NRV .

The process has started, I just ordered a Stens gasket kit. Going to check with the local dealer on the other parts before I start much searching online.

Ahhh.... The 350 million year old NEW River Valley..... You know the New River is one of only a very few in the world that flows south to north? It is also believed that the only river older than the New River is the Nile in Egypt.

Now that the history lesson is over.....

I have family around Claytor Lake and I am through there sometimes, I catch I-77 and run it into Bluefield West Virginia.

The NEW River
 

I have relatives in West Jefferson, North Carolina along the New River . It is a very very interesting river :beerchug:

There be some mighty big catfish in those waters also. I have a buddy that lives on the New River, right were it comes out of West Virginia, and we drug a 70lbs mud cat out on 30lbs test line. Took the two of us working together for two and a half hours to finally get the thing on land.

Very nice Roanoker!! I like a little history and geography. Thank you, very nice!

Your clutch plate cracking is likely caused by drive shaft mis-alignment. I'd check the engine mounts. I had a 1200 with the same problem.

Thank you for the info. After the mess I found inside the engine I had forgotten about the drive plate being cracked. I will check those mounts before I install the engine.

I would just replace the mounts with new OEM ones while you are in there, and do the crossbrace mod at the same time. Then you won't have to touch it again.

I had seen a feller selling modded cross braces and had meant to ask what purpose it served. The man had a few oem Kohler cross braces and quite a few aftermarket braces available.

Edit:
I know I seen NOS iso mounts on one of the sponsors links, I will just have to remember which one it was.

They are available brand new from any CC dealer or the sponsors. No need for NOS ones that may or may not still be good anymore.

This tractor has not been abandoned, just been waiting for some money to work with. So far I have gotten the gaskets, seals, new governor gear and a used cam. The only things left is the governor shaft, av bushings and a drive plate. A local shop told me they could probably repair my drive plate for $20-$30, they specialize in repairs/alterations of automotive drive shafts, flex plates and flywheels.