Slam-O-Matic drive
 

Just getting the 129 ready for it's used engine. While I was babysitting the J.B. weld I put on the front axle bushing I saw this. And the drive shaft's fan is crap too. Hey at least it's not raining.

R Bedell, Do ya think you could rework the drive coupler for me if I ship it to you?:Duh:

I forgot to turn it around. So I'm guessing I now need a shaft too?!

Richard:

How about modifying your drive with an Upgrade.

Here is a few images what Engineer David Kirk came up with....

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...HubAdapt-1.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...HubAdapt-2.jpg

PARTS LIST ...... nuts and bolts available locally

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...HubAdapt-3.jpg

The Drive Shaft will have to be cut and one hole have to be drilled to accommodate the 1/4" Spirol Pin.

This will upgrade the drive shaft similar to what is on Quietline Series and later.

:ThumbsUp:

R Bedell,

Thanks for the information and pictures to with it. I had even thought of adding another disc to the one already there and then cut the drive shaft. But I never thought of going to the front and thereby have symmetry. It looks like I could just flip the drive shaft on the 129?

This is a case of if all you have is a hammer.... Last night I put some liquid weld to my drive cup. About 12 hours latter this is what I have. But unless the J.B. gets much harder it'll never work.

Richard:

On the 82 Series Cubs, there are Double Flex Disc Couplers on each end of the Drive Shaft, and that certainly can be done as a modification to your 129.

Palmer

I have no experience with the older Cubs however the same rules apply. Each end of the shaft MUST ride in a healthy bushing, cutting the worn portion of the shaft off or turning it or adding another flex will NOT solve your problem. The flex couple will NOT center your shaft, that's what the bushing does, without the bushing in place you will have wobble and further deterioration. As Roland pointed out the correct fix, I've bought all these parts new for a QL I had and IIRR should run you about $100 to replace. The shaft you can purchase at a hydraulic shop as cylinder rod for about $12, at least that's what paid.

Scott

I'll tell ya I could fix this stuff with a welder, a drill press and a file. If I were to get oxygen/acetylene I would have to invest several hundred dollars in equipment and leases. Before I can even think about tig or mig I would not only need a 220 line, I would have to get my wiring upgraded from 100 amp to 200 amp service. For the amount of welding I need to do and can foresee doing it just isn't practical. :bash2: :bash2:

I just did this front coupler mod on a 149, and the driveshaft does not have to be cut, but you do have to drill a new hole for the spirol pin. It cost less to buy the QL parts to change the front coupler, than to buy the stock 129 (and below, hydro models) coupler/drive hub. It's not a lot less, but is cheaper, and you also shouldn't have to replace anything again. The slot in the new stock replacement coupler/drive hub will wear in a short time.

pbell,

Thanks. I really want to keep it OEM, but time does prove out improvements and "World Trade" has proven inferior products starting with the steel. So I need to rethink the gospel of OEM.

murphycc,

The 129 does not use bushings in this part of the drive line. Starting with the QL series is when bushings came into play along with a different drive shaft and couplers.

BTW J.B. is too soft.

http://cgi.ebay.com/cub-cadet-hydros...A30%7C294%3A50

Check this out Palmer.

Scott

Looks nice! Thank you!

I just received the drive cup from the link in the last post. This is superior to OEM. Look and see. OEM (mine) two piece welded. This one is made from a solid billet. The OEM back side shows a gap between the pieces. This one will never have that because it is made from a solid billet.

murphycc, or anyone else,
The flex couple will NOT center your shaft, that's what the bushing does, without the bushing in place you will have wobble and further deterioration.

I have searched to the point of utter frustration for the bearing in the electronic parts look up. I have looked at 129,149,169 and 127 all nada. This bearing should fit in the rear coupler and then the rear coupler would go on the transmission. I'm asking for help. Thanks.

That's because previous to about 1978 in the middle of QL production, the spherical ball bushing coupler was not in use. Later Quietlines on up used the spherical ball bushing to center the driveshaft. Previous to that, the earlier QLs (and MAYBE the 1x9s) used a steel ball and a large indentation in the back of the driveshaft to center it. Previous to this, all narrowframes (and possibly the 1x9s; I don't know because I've never owned a 1x9) had a 5/16" dia. or so nub on the back of the shaft that very loosely centered in the input shaft coupler with no bushing whatsoever. In that case, the rubber coupling had to keep it somewhat coaxial, but the rear coupler itself kept the driveshaft loosely constrained on the rotating axis of the input shaft. Does that clear anything up?

It sure does! The quote above is exactly what I have. I have been going nuts over this. When I found nothing the the parts look up I told some people that there was not a bearing. They were certain I was wrong and I prepared myself to look each one up and apologize. This also explains why I have a rubber coupling disc and the others I have from some used parts are layered cloth. I owe you one Matt. Thanks.

Done
 

Thanks to all for the help and advise. I kept it factory complete with runs in some paint. I just got to bolt everything up.

Looks good RPalmer

Sure gives you a piece of mind on a drive shaft rebuild/replacement. I went over your thread while working on mine, and I agree the one piece drive cup should be a end to any problems with that. Our pictures look a lot alike, I sure wished I had the time, energy, and money to restore my cub from the frame up, and at one time I had a chance at basic free powder coat painting, of large parts like cubs broke down into frame, hood etc, that would be the ultimate restore in my opinion.

Thanks. I'm with you on the wishing part. I really don't know how these guys get some of their Cubs looking so perfect. I had runs on the drive shaft. Then scuffed it all up putting on the fan. I got the bolt heads but forgot to do the nuts. I redid my Garden trailer wheels at the same time. Wired brushed them. Straightened out some minor "dents" . Filed the bead nice and smooth and then gave them 3 coats of paint. They looked like brand new. Then I put on the tires and chipped some paint and put in a couple of scratches. I guess I'll have to be happy with sorta clean working machines. I don't think I 'll ever be able to build a show horse.

I like the idea of the powder coat. I don't know the process but I bet it looks like colored chrome. And that would be the ultimate. Thanks for the props and thanks to every member out there who has given me their time and sage advise. It means alot to this old man. And my tractors mean a lot to me.