Super lift arm support strap!
 

It seems I'm not the only one who has had some bad luck with the implement lift arm on the supers. I had a run in last winter with an immovable object and my Haban plow. Snapped the arm right off the rock shaft. Seems Cub had a fix for this but as usual I found out after the OOPS! The fix is Cub part# 14297 "cross shaft support strap". You need that and a 1/2" bolt.

Ouch!
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...re160Small.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...re159Small.jpg

The whole assembly in pieces.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...re001Small.jpg

The fix.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...043Small-1.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...re042Small.jpg

The strap connects the pin on the right side mower lift arm on the large shaft with the implement lift arm via the drilled hole in the arm. This requires a 1/2" bolt.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...041Small-1.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...re044Small.jpg

Looks like it will add quite a bit of support to the lift arm. The Haban plow and 450 snow blower are a pretty heavy load for this part. Hope this helps keep someone else from having to go replacing the rock shaft. It's not much fun!

Cool...I bet I can make one of those in about 10 minutes and save myself whatever $$$ CC wants for it. I have a spare rockshaft for my 1872 but I'd rather not use it if possible.:beerchug:

thank you very much for posting the pictures. I had looked at my rockshaft and the pin was tilted back being that it was supported on one side but not on the other were the hair pin is. So to support the end of the pin I took two plates one half inch thick and cut the middle one shorter so I could add my implement lift arm. Basically I am sandwiching the lift arm with the stock rockshaft and a plate with a plate in between to keep the lift arm from binding. I no longer use the hairpin but use the same bolt hole that the factory support uses. But I must say I will make one like the factory sells and make it twice as strong.

Thanks for some great pictures! I got up close and personal with my rockshaft and rollpins last night. Heading to the garage shortly to put it all back together. I will be making that strap soon.

Glad I could help. It wouldn't be a big deal to make after seeing one. It is thick. I didn't measure but it looks like 5/16" thick flat stock. Price wasn't too bad by Cub prices. Around $25 at a not so cheap dealer.

Can someone give the measurements for the cross shaft support/strap or if someone has an extra one they want to sell? They went NLA.

Well I ended up making one this morning. It looks like it'll hold up just as well as the factory strap. I'll have to paint it tonight at work. It took about 20 minutes and costed zero bucks so I'm kind of glad I wasn't able to buy one.

I'm surprized at the NLA. I bought mine from local dealer who ordered it for me a couple of weeks before I posted this.

I'm glad you got yours made up.

I started to order one straight from cub cadet a couple weeks ago and they showed it as being in stock, went to order it two days ago and it showed NLA. In my opinion the people at cub cadet do a very poor job at paying attention to what the demand is for these older cubs and attachments.

My experience with the nearest Cub Cadet/Case dealer is that they really don't have much time bothering with my piddle-poo inquiries for parts for my "old and small potatoes" garden tractor.

Anyone have the dimensions for this thing?

I would like to second Cubcrazy's request for dimensions. Thanks

It wouldn't be that hard to figure out, as you can just measure the offset between the two arms that you have to connect together, bend a piece to match, drill one hole for the peg in the mower lift arm, and then trace the hole in the blade lift arm and then drill it. That way you've got one that perfectly fits your machine. There can be some variation between tractors as to the angle between those two pieces. 1/4"-5/16" x 1 1/4" or so steel should be fine.

I did exactly what matt said. I did a quick measurement to determine the angles for the piece, drill hole for the peg and left the other end extra long. Then attached the piece to the peg, swung it up to the hole ne the arm, marked where to drill, took the piece off and drilled the other hole and cut that end to final length.

Here's a pick of the strap I made. Please ignore the PO's fancy safety orange lift bar. I put it on just to test the lift. I had to flip the cutting blade since the PO used this Haban without the skid feet on. Luckily it didn't wear all the way down to the blade assembly. I've still got to clean up the blade real good and prime and paint it. I love how high these Haban blades lift.

When I set up the plow on my 2084 a month ago I was missing the bell crank sort of piece (not sure what it is called) that you show in your pictures that operates the plow lift arm. I tried to order that, and the cross brace, both showed up as NLA. A guy at work fabbed up the bell crank for me, is working fine, but now seeing your pics I'll definitely add the cross brace.

How critical is the hole placement, if it's off will the 2 lift points bind when operated?

If you do what I mentioned a couple posts up you should be able to get the holes to line up perfectly. Just make your 1/2 inch hole for the mower lift arm, swing your fabbed brace up to the blade lift arm and mark your spot to make the 2nd 1/2 inch hole. Of course you have to do your bends after making the first hole.

Thanks, with your pictures I see how to do it. What I was wondering is, with my home made arm off the rock shaft, if the hole on that arm is a little higher it has less travel distance, a little lower it has more travel distance, if the travel doesn't match the travel of the other lift arm it will bind up. I'll guess at where to drill that hole based on your setup, then leave it loose and operate the lift to see if I got it right.

When I first set up the plow and saw how much pressure it takes on the plow lift arm to lift it, I doubted that the bell crank we made would hold up. We through bolted with grade 8 bolts and so far so good, but I'll feel better with the support strap.

If I'm understanding you correctly I think with both the arms moving in unison, it shouldn't make a difference but I may be assuming incorrectly.

Hopefully this will help clarify. The top piece in this pic is the implement lift arm (bell crank). Last I looked they were still availible. The lower and larger piece is the rock shaft. No longer avail through CUB. The implement lift inserts through the frame rail, Through the rock shaft, and out the other frame rail. Then they are pinned together. Yes they move in unison.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...re001Small.jpg

The lift cylinder moves the larger outer shaft which is also the mower deck lift. This is much stronger due to size than the inner implement lift shaft and arm. Tieing the mower lift arm to the implement lift arm takes the leverage off of the implement lift which makes it a lot harder to rip it off the end of the shaft. In theory anyway.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...041Small-1.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...re044Small.jpg

I don't have deminsions handy. This should be easy enough to mock up. I think differences in different machines might affect the measurements anyway.

Aagitch Did you say something about lifting high?
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...20020Small.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...10015Small.jpg

Someone on here had asked me for pics of the plow a while ago. Here is the only thing I have handy.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...20013Small.jpg

I've got my plow painted but haven't got the frame done yet. I used rustolieum rusty metal primer on the whole blade. I used rustoliem flat black on the back of the blade 2 coats. and ez-slide graphite paint on the face. It seems to work better on the blade than the blower. My edge is pretty worn as well. For the time being I flipped it. Extreme motor works sells new edges for these in Stainless steel. Hopefully before next winter I'll have one.

I think my setup may be a bit different, here's a pic showing it. This is actually from the parts diagram for a 451 snowblower, for some reason they don't show the crank arm on the plow diagram.

Mine is home made, but same idea. A slot in the crank fits over the flat's of the end of the rock shaft (maybe I'm calling the wrong thing the rock shaft?). Two cap screws bolt through the shaft end. This shaft end sticks out of the frame by the turning brakes.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_h...Handle.gif.jpg

Squatch,

Real nice photos, thanks. That's what this forum is all about for me. I have 2 1872s and on one I damaged the rockshaft trying to lift my snowblower. I was looking at it the other day and I can't figure out how to remove the rockshaft without taking almost everything out and pretty much taking the frame apart. Is there an easier way?

Thanks

Thanks squatch,

I found a haban blade last year and had no idea what that strap was for, so of course I didn't put it on and I broke the implement end off my rockshaft just like your pic. I had the end welded back on because I could not get the bell end driven thru the rockshaft no matter how hard i beat on it, the pins came out ok but that thing wasn't budgin'. anyway I had it welded back on the end and now the holes on the support strap are about a half inch off ! I will just drill another hole and hopefully that will work. Wish I had used that strap in the first place! arghh!

1872 from last winters biggest snow.
look familiar?

Read here.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=2912

Hate to tell you this but that is one of the worst jobs you will encounter with these tractors. Getting out a broken rock shaft. Probably the easiest way is to take a sawall and cut out the center section and install another unit. Make sure you already have the other unit that has been seperated into 2 pieces before you start cutting. I would try to get a used one from one of our sponsers here. In my case I was surprised to find That mine came apart easy. I had put such an impact on the shaft from running my plow into an immovable object at speed that it broke the rust loose between the inner shaf and outer tube. I posted one link above but feel free to go to my profile and look up my old threads. There are a couple that address this broken shaft. I used it as an excuse to take the tractor apart and resto it myself.

I have repaired many of these rock shafts. Its an easy fix, clean the paint off and remove some of the old plug weld and weld it back on. Even if you have to pay someone to weld it it would still be cheaper than $25.00. If you look at it close you will notice that the real problem is the factory got cheap and didn't take the few extra minutes to weld the backside of the plate. A small plug weld is very weak but is plenty strong enough to hold a deck , not the force of a plow snagging something solid. I would suggest to anyone needing to remove their rock shaft for whatever reason to put a good weld pass on the back side of that plate before reinstalling it.

CC parts site
 

I have been using the cc parts site for over two months pretty frequently and just last week they had a big redo on the entire "Older" model tractors. I actually ordered several parts that they showed available and then was notified that they were NLA. That must have happend quite a few times for them to realise that the site was no longer current and they redid it. Our sponsors above have a lot of good stuff a very reasonable prices so we are not totally lost.