New to me 127-Getting it set up right...
 

Hi all!

This is my first post, though I have been lurking here for a while.

I have a couple of questions about my "new" Cub 127.

#1. The P.O. said there was a problem with the governor or carburetor as the engine slows under load. I made some adjustments (as per the blue ribbon manual) and it seems to be better. Motor slows a bit under PTO and more when climbing hills. How much slowing is to be expected?

#2. There is smoke coming from the carburetor and air cleaner. I have checked the oil level as seen in other posts, but it is well within the tolerance XXXXX area on the dipstick. Oil does not smell burnt, but smells like no other oil I have ever smelled. Grayish in color as well.

Any help you might provide is much appreciated!

Thanks!

Kevin

Light grey oil would indicate water. Are you sure the smoke is coming out of the air cleaner? I would suspect that it is coming from the breather hole just below and to the left of the carb. I would change the oil out as soon as possible, only run it enough to be sure of where your smoking from then drain that oil while its warm.

My 122 does the same thing on occasion.

CMA's129: Thanks for the info! I'll see if I can find the source of the smoke more accurately. If it is the breather, I will change the oil straight away. I have also seen a bit of smoke coming from the oil fill/dipstick when opened.

ljones: This has happened every time I run the cub (all three times), except of course when I was trying it out before I bought it! Sometimes the smoke is billowy, other times just a wisp.

Thanks!

Kevin

If it is coming from the dipstik and breather its probably getting due for a rebuild. I have a 129 that only does it after is good and warmed up, but before I put sea foam in it it never smoked at all!

Defiantly do the carbon cleaning that is posted in the http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/f...splay.php?f=19

You can get a good idea then as well on the rings/piston. I think blow-by can cause the issues you are having, however don't get down & out as many of these engines need a rebuild due to age, and of course usage... bringing the engine/mechanical parts up to spec is a real bench point to continue work/build on and also give you much more enjoyment... when i purchase a Cub Cadet now I factor in a engine rebuild when I purchase no matter what the seller says.. if it does work out that the engine had been rebuilt to spec, and parts replaced back to original, or working tolerance it's a big plus...

A few things I do to a new cub... engine oil first thing, I urge you to use a HDEO (heavy duty engine oil) in straight 30 weight such as Shell Rotella HD 30, or Delo HD 30, I think mystic also makes an outstanding HD 30 weight oil these oils can be found at your local walmart or auto parts stores. These oils also have the features that our Kohler engines need like flat tappet etc...

There is a breather below the carb that may need cleaning also, however I'm not sure this would cause your issue... grey colored oil has me baffled... a couple things that come to mind are oil additives which these Kohler cast iron series 9or no engine in my opinion) really need... It could be metal in the oil I hope not, but don't rule it out... If the carb needs a rebuild there may be gas getting into the oil causing problems, but the smell would reak when checking the oil for a sniff test etc...

Just some helpful pointers, welcome aboard, and you will enjoy this garden tractor...

Good info Clint !

Clint,

Thanks for the info! This seems like it may be a little more involved than I am comfortable with. How big is the learning curve when dealing with rings, etc? I am not opposed to doing any of it, but just have never done so before! (As in, the furthest I have ever gone on any motor was to change the oil and spark plugs or fiddle with the carb adjustments.)

I will get it running again this weekend to see if the smoke comes from the breather or not. Carb was rebuilt this year by a shop before I got it and looks squeaky clean. Taking the head off will have to wait till a little later. Should I wait to change the oil until after removing/decarbonizing the head? Of course, I will not be running it again for any length now until the oil is changed.

Thanks!

Kevin

First and foremost you just gave good information when you posted your not sure if you can do the rings etc or not. If you do not feel comfortable beyond purchasing rebuild books, looking for info on the net etc, and there may even be some videos on the net of rebuilds how to... if you still feel this is out of your reach a few more options come to mind as in purchasing a used motor the same model as you have.. then you would still need to get pretty deep in researching things like oil pans, bolt holes lining up etc etc... you could purchase a shortblock/full drop in engine units new or rebuilt this would be expensive, however this would still be a good option if you have no good mechanics close by... don't rule out regular automotive shops that are owned by individuals, ask around who would be a good person to do this at a reasonable price... word of mouth travels fast with this type of business... also step up to the plat when doing this, don't cheap out on the least expensive rate for doing the work.. and while your in there do it right the first time.. if so your looking at a lifetime engine with this awesome engine !!

If I were paying I would want the engine clean, and to spec... make sure the person checks things like the rod/journal, main bearings etc... replace the piston, rings etc.. vatted ( cleaned with heat, and cleaning solution) this is very important to me as I love a clean non leaking engine... Bored if needed, a good engine builder will know all of this, and more.. Don't forget choosing a good paint for the engine etc.. while you have everything apart you can clean the covers etc, and maybe help with part of it... I got long winded here I'm sorry, trying to give you some helpful tips on this.

I would change the oil now before anything else is done, it would not hurt to run the engine to get the oil hot before draining as this will help thin the oil out... getting more contaminates out. Again choose a HDEO your looking at around $12 for a gallon so that will be enough for more than one change, change it now.. if you do clean the head/chamber area then you could change it again after that as a safety factor, and it will also help to get any contaminates out if the sump was really dirty.

Update
 

Thanks for all the help, so far!

Today I finally had a chance to get to the cub again. It is housed by my sister-in-law right now so it is an hour away.

I ran the motor some to see where the smoke was coming out and found it is definitely the breather. The hotter then engine, or when put under load, the more smoke. It is pretty consistent once it starts. Enough that you would notice, but not enough to smoke up the yard.

Likely of more concern is what I found when changing the oil. The oil had a silverish tinge and definitely had a metallic look when put in the sun. As the oil cooled/settled, that went away.

What are the possible causes? I noticed the dipstick was a touch chewed on the end. When I started it up again after refilling with oil, I did not hear a difference with the stick in or out.

So, where do I go from here? As I said earlier, I may be in over my head, but I would like to learn.

Thanks!

Kevin

If the end of the dipstick is messed up, something hit it. I think I would pull the engine and remove the oil pan and see what's going on before you run it anymore. I suspect you will find something broken.

I agree with matt on pulling the engine, for purpose or bringing this engine up to spec...however

If some how the wrong dipstick has been used that may have caused the problem.. I have not really paid any attention to the dipstick relation between the bottom, and the crank etc... That would also cause the metallic color in your oil... The smoke coming from the breather... I would again look at the dipstick as I'm not sure what happens to the vacuum these engines will make if the wrong dipstick is used/the tube is not sealed.

Still if you lucked out on everything above, chances are the engine being 30 some odd years old will need a rebuild