149 Getting spark only when turning key off
 

Hi everybody,
I replaced my solenoid (thanksTyler C), now then engine turns over without jumping. I pulled the plug and noticed that the only time I got spark was when I turned the key off. I don't have the V/R hooked up. Could that have something to do with the problem?
I'm encouraged that I at least I have spark. But I need advice as to what might be wrong. Thanks in advance

tt

Spark only when turning key off
 

Sounds like the points are not opening.

Cadet Farmer

Tim:

I would have to say...
(A) That the Ignition Switch is defective
(B) That the tractor isn't wired correctly.
(C) That there maybe non Cub Cadet Parts installed
(D) That some wires are rubbing together that shouldn't be.

Click on this link to make sure you wiring is in order.... Wiring Diagram

149 getting spark at wrong time
 

I rechecked the static timing and the points are opening and closing.
The wiring diagram Rolland provided the link for looks to be the same as my service manual. Wiring looks right. From the schematic it would appear that the V/R should not affect the ignition circuit, but I'm not real slick with the electrical end of this.(haha-obviously). I can't put the V/R back in yet because I can't find the right kind of fusible link that looks like solder. The stuff at auto-parts stores is insulated copper. this should be another thread.

Back to your suggestions. I took the ignition switch out of my 127, put it in the 149 with the same result. Got a single spark when I turned the key off. The engine did turn over. The coil and condenser were also cannabilized from the 127. The only thing I can come up with is maybe having a drop of solder reconnect the fried fusible link. Suggestions welcome.

Tim

Just a thought but it sounds to me like you maybe have a bad ground. I would go through the machine and clean all ground wires. Electrical circuits can do some funny stuff not being grounded properly.

What fusible link.....??? Where is it in the Diagram...???

Firing of the Spark Plug
 

My thoughts are,
We know that when the points open, thereby removing current from the primary windings in the coil, this causes the secondary windings in the coil to discharge and fire the plug.
So I am thinking that something is supplying current to the primary side of the coil even when the points are open, (such as a short across the points). Then when the key switch is turned off, thus removing current from the primary coil windings, the secondary windings discharge and fire the plug.

Cadet Farmer
(please excuse me if I am sounding like a shop teacher again)

I went through the same exact issue, the only time it would fire was when the ignition switch was released after turning over/attempting to start. My issue was the ignition switch combined with the wiring harness. The plus on the ignition switch are pretty much junk on aftermarket ignition switches... they don't correlate to the wiring diagram, then when you try to trace these down it only adds to your problems. I OEM ignition switch, and wiring harness is a must when troubleshooting electrical spark/crank/ignition problems.

That being said I did see you salvaged know good working parts from another mower... you also need a meter to trace/troubleshoot problems. This is the way I do it, and I assure you nothing is more frustrating than troubleshooting electrical/starting problems on garden tracter.

That's fire suppression talk!!
 

I'm curious as to what that is too:biggrin2.gif:. Fusible links are used in fire extinguishing hoods, they are fused together with solder.

I have a 1450 that does the same thing once in awhile. I have to reach around and move the connector around that plugs into the switch .

One of the wires/terminals are bad. Something else i need to fix !!

Does anyone know if the big plastic connector that plugs into the switch can be purchased new ?? The terminals inside it also ??

Have you tried running a wire directly to the + side of the battery to + side of the coil and then looking for spark.

There isn't a fusible link in a 149 that I'm aware of.

Is it possible that your battery doesn't have enough poop to turn the S/G and make fire at the same time???

You REALLY need check your wire loom and get the V/R hooked up before you go any further, either that or disconnect all the wires to the engine and S/G and wire it like you were starting the engine on the ground. And then see if it runs or not. In any event if you want this thing to ever get anywhere, sooner or later you're gonna have to... Check your wire loom and get the V/R hooked up...

Photo of Fusible link?
 

The attached photo is of the inside of the VR. On the right you can see the gap in the solder like material. This happened when I hooked up the VR with the B and F reversed (an earlier post). a guy at Radio Shack said that this was fusible link. Like solder with a copper strand running through it. They didn't have any. I don't know where to get some. That's why the VR isnt hooked up.

Looking at the schematic I don't see why the VR is needed to start the engine.

The battery measures 12.38 V. Turns over fairly fast.

I'll try bat. + to coil+ in the morning.

Tim

This is what is takes to start up a Kohler,,,,,, Diagram

Darrell:

Is this what you are looking for....??

The little beast is alive!!!!!!
 

Ok Roland, you can stop tearing your hair out about the fusible link(I still need to find some.)

Anyways, I installed the VR with a drop of solder completing the link(after unwinding one of the little twists where it attaches at the top in order to make the gap smaller). With sparkplug removed but still hooked to lead, I got repeated sparking. Hooray! Put all back together. No spark. I had taken off the breaker points cover last night and it turns out that the lug on the wire to the points was shorting out on the points cover. Took care of that and she popped and then caught and filled the barn with blue smoke.

As my grandfather would have said "I'm happier than a pig in s***".
Now I have to set the mixture and idle which will be pure fun. This is the first time that I've heard a single Kohler run. No smoke at all now. This is too cool.

I want to thank all here for answering all of my questions as well as the questions of others that have been so informative.

Now I have to get front tires mounted on the painted wheels,paint the hood and front end white and I'll get to drive a a CC for the first time.

Thanks again

Tim

That's awesome, Tim! Glad you got your cub going! Isn't it a great feeling! :ThumbsUp:

149 manuals
 

Wild Bill,
I have all of the original manuals.(Service for chassis, engine, and owners).
That's part of the reason it started right up after I found the short.
Now I have to do all the adjusting (toe-in,idle,hydro etc.) What's not in the manuals I can find here. Thanks. Back to the barn.

Tim

Good job!
 

Glad to here you got'er going! I know the feeling.....Now your hooked on these IH Cub Cadets! hehe! Good times!