Hyd oil change on GTX 2100-now not moving
 

Changed hydraulic oil and filter on GTX 2100.refilled with 5 quarts of cub cadet oil and filter. Check oil level and just above the fill mark but I knew the filter was probably not full. I eased around the drive way in forwards and reverse and thought all is good! I reinstalled mower deck and rechecked the oil level and about half way between add and full. Started engine and mower would not travel either direction. The deck still raises and lowers and steering seems fine. I may have heard something just a little different sounding when I tried to move forward. Any ideas why it worked for 5-8 minutes and now nothing?

Did you pre-fill the filter before installing ?
Alternate pushes on forward and reverse for a minute or two you may have an air-lock
Oz

What did you use for a filter?:bigthink:

Looking at the parts breakdown for a GTX2100 the deck lift and steering are electric so the hydro has nothing to do with those funtions

Hyd oil filter #923-3014. I did not prefill the filter.

Thanks, but working the forward and reverse did not help. The forward has hardly any resistance to pushing

I have jack the rear end up and find that that there is no difference in rotation resistance whether the transmission release lever is engaged or in free wheel position. Could this lever be stuck in not engaged position ?

Is the transmission release/disengage lever on or off ?
Have you let the mower run for a few minutes before attempting to move ?
It sounds like the hydro is not primed
I cannot think of anything else apart from an air-lock in the filter
This is something to try partially undo hydro filter with engine running and see if you get air or oil leak out , but be very careful please , if air that may clear the air-lock
They do this with some Auto transmissions to make sure they are full , by allowing oil to drain out whilst running

I jacked up rear off the ground. I loosen filter while running and just oil came out but not really any pressure…just an oil stream. No appearance of air bubbles in the oil. I let probably a half quart of oil. I was pushing foot pedals and no difference in flow of stream whether forwards, reverse, or neutral. I wonder if there should have been at least some pressure difference at the filter.

I am beginning to think there is a pump issue.

Were you having any issues before the fluid change?

No issues. It had 247 hours on meter and about 20-30 were from key in on position for a couple days. No leaks, no noises, and pulled fine.

I recently inspected the transmission engaged/disengage button (for lack of a better name) and it can be pushed in with a finger and pops right back out when released. I thought maybe is was stuck in but not the case.

What and where is the aluminum tube that is just behind the filter? It goes upward towards the top of the transmission.

What is the Aluminium line just behind the filter? It routes up towards the top of the transmission but can’t see where it goes.

That is your oil pick up tube.

I believe you have a Hydro-Gear BDU-10 in your machine.

Here is a link to the service manual if you don't already have one.
https://www.hydro-gear.com/wp-conten...N-50327_P6.pdf

Make sure that pickup tube is not loose, cracked or damaged because that will cause the pump to cavitate. Hopefully the dealer didn't sell you HyTran oil for it because that won't work well in it.

I'm thinking maybe your unit is air locked and hopefully you don't have a failed gerotor.

I'm not sure this would work but I wonder if you took a shop vac and used the exhaust side of it to slightly pressurize the differential. Maybe that would push the oil up to the suction side of the hydro pump.

Keep us posted please and good luck.

Oak, Thanks for info. Where would I try to pressurize the differential? I’m a rookie. At the dipstick?

Yep, at the dipstick.

I was able to get a good connection between shop vac exhaust and funnel and dipstick opening so there was a decent amount of pressure. It did not help.

Here is pump model I have in photo

Since nothing else has worked to bleed the air, I was thinking of draining the oil and starting all over. Since hydro gear recommends 20W-50, I will use that this time and at least save $100 from Cub oil in my manual. Any tips to make sure the current oil drains completely? I have several videos about priming that I will follow.

don't know about hydros I have ran off road diesel thru a kt17 to flush gas out I didn't start it but had the drain plug out and poured it in quickly and let it get all out I had tho change the oil in it after a minute or two of running to get the remaining out like I said idk about hydro pumps so try it at your own risk:bigthink:









1985 cub cadet 782d-1985 782-1980 v-twin swapped 782 :American Flag 1:

What oil did you use ? a full synthetic 15w/50w is what I use in my Hydro (same as yours) it doubles the change period and works like a dream
If you start again this time pre-fill the filter

I used the cub cadet drive system oil from dealer because they said it was the correct oil and also in my owners manual. The hydro gear manual indicate 20w-50 for my climate.

I would try to put some pressure on the dip stick hole again.
Use your air gun but you do not want to use full line pressure of #100 ++
Just wrap a shop rag around your blow gun and give it a couple of bursts,
allowing your hand to pop off the hole, moderating the pressure.
and of course with the engine running so the oil is trying to circulate.

I doubt the changing the oil again is going to make adifference.
The fact that you have hydraulic pressure for lift and that it did drive for a bit is troubling,
Because having lift hydraulic pressure indicates the pump is pumping fluid.
I'm not familar with your setup, I'm just thinking logistics here.

Do you have some sort of disconnect so your mower can be pushed around without the motor running and it has been put in the un engauged position?:bigthink:

The 2000 series does not have hydraulic lift or hydraulic power steering.

In the later XT3 series in 2019, Cub went back to recommending just changing the filter and adding trans fluid you lost from the filter change due to air bubble issues with the transmission design. As my 2018 XT3 manual had you change both the fluid and filter.

So changing the fluid again might solve the issue, but this time do the air purging procedure.

Jack the Rear End Off the Ground

With the release pulled out, start the tractor and hit the forward and reverse pedal 6 times on either pedal. Then put the release lever back in and hit the reverse and forward pedal 6 times.

Stop the tractor, lower it to the ground, and you should be good. You can use the same fluid again; just buy a little extra to cover the loss left in the container. :ThumbsUp:

New oil and purge did not help. Mower is to good to junk.

An on line supply store says it has a new hydraulic pump and model matches mine for $232 which is significantly less than every other suppliers. There seems to be a wide range of $680-1700 for the same pump. Based upon my review of this company, they seem OK, but I guess all scammers seem OK.

Maybe by chance you've had some kind of coincidental issue, such as something break on drive shaft between hydro and engine? Or something.........

I'm going to toss out 2 more possibilities 1st you have a broken rotor in your charge pump on the hydro 2nd the plastic barrels in your drive shaft have disintegrated.

Here are 2 links for service manuals for the 2000 series Cubs, they may be of some help.

https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Cub-Cad...air-Manual.pdf

https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Cub-Cad...ansmission.pdf

Thanks so much for the suggestions and manuals. The blue barrels appear in good shape on both ends. I’m guessing I can’t tell about the shaft without removal of pump.
Are there similar manuals for my cub? Model
14W-3GE-010 GTX 2100
Year 2012

I'm thinking you have a failed gerotor. That's a pretty common failure and not that difficult to replace. I'd call Hydro-Gear and confirm what you need. There is an auxiliary filter on the cover and I'm thinking you will need a 1 or 2 shims for the new gerotor. I thought I had a failed gerotor at one time so pull the old one off before you order any parts. Take lots of pics to make sure you get everything put back correctly. Hopefully it didn't shatter and send fragments into the system. Good luck and keep us posted one what you find please.

https://www.hydro-gear.com/

What would the recommended method be to remove the drive shaft to allow room for the hyd pump to be moved forward for removal? Is it easier to unbolt the engine and move forward or some other method to get the drive shaft out of the way?

Make life easy for yourself and just remove the whole rear axle assembly. Read the service manual.

What Sam said or just remove the 4 bolts that hold the engine base plate to the frame. You may just need to move it a little bit to get the shaft out. At this point I would replace the drive barrels too while the shaft is out.

https://www.amazon.com/WMJNH-Replace...51&sr=8-2&th=1

Unbolt the flange in front of the fan and do the same at the motor end of the driveshaft and it will lift away
Whilst you have the driveshaft out do what Sam suggested and replace the drive barrels at both ends of said driveshaft

The service manual for the 2000 series Cubs only faintly resembles my GTX 2100. So much is different on my model, that this manual does not cover. My brake assembly looks nothing like the one discussed in the 2000 series cub. There has to be a better description available.

Here is a link to the 3000 series. I'm sure it won't be the same but maybe similar.

https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Cub-Cad...air-Manual.pdf

thank you for the series 3000. It has a transmission removal section that is more similar to mine. The brake linkage is different and that seems to be our problem in removing the brake lever rod and transmission. Thanks again for the help. The 3000 series has an easy method of removing the brake arms that mine does not have.

i was able to obtain a service manual for the 2000 series for models year 2011 and newer. This matches my mower. I would include for your future reference but the file size is larger than allowed. If you would like an email with the file, let me know.

I replaced the hydraulic pump with a new one and everything works. I guess the old pump just coincidently broke at just the wrong time. I may dive deeper into the old pump to see what may have worn out.

I just posted the other day i am having the exact same problem, but mine is a 2550 I have done everything you did multiple times and with the same results. I am to the point of pulling rear end and look for a donor.

Good luck. I can’t find a picture of a CC 2650 on the internet so I’m not much help. What hydraulic pump does your model have?