How do I remove this part? K301 Engine
 

I'm tearing down my engine for a possible rebuild, i'm trying to remove the crankshaft and can't figure how this part, Bushing? Comes off. The last time this engine ran it smoked heavily with a slight knock IIRC, it's been about five years or so. I have included some photos of the piston wear. Also, the exhaust manifold seems to have chipped possibly from overheating making it brittle? I'm thinking I can chase the threads and use a steel pipe instead of the flange, IIRC it used a steel pipe anyway but the muffler is at my shop so i'm not quite sure. You guys will know. Thanks. Joe

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Drill two holes through your basket pulley one on either side of the shaft about 3/4 of a inch out from the collar then you can put a harmonic balancer puller on it with two bolts with nuts and washers on the back. tighten the puller down till it starts to grab Then start to apply heat to the collar then give it a turn on the puller just keep getting it hotter till it starts to come. Don't horse it or you will bend it. They cost $78.
It also helps to put a rag in the cylinder and put the head back on so the motor wont spin when you tighten the puller

Those threads don't look too messed up. if you need to, flip the cutters upside down in a 3/4 pipe threading die and cut the threads on your nipple a little deeper.

I prefer the tap,tap tap,turn,tap tap tap and turn.
Using a brass hammer.
I did it also by drilling the holes,but it still deformed the pulley,maybe I did something wrong.
Or you can take the bearing plate off,put some blocks of wood between the pulley and the block and use a brass or dead blow hammer and drive the crank toward the fly wheel side.?

This may sound hard or a little out there but ive seen it work. I would Soak it with Kano oil or PB Blaster in the set screw hole the shaft. Then take a pair of channel lock an rubber mallet or brass hammer and tap TAP on the shaft It may take an extra pair of hands but Holding PTO and leting the weight of the motor do most of the work and tap on the saft it may come out i would try this before i go drilling holes :bigthink:

Heat the hub with a torch until it glows dull red, then pry it off with a large prybar.

I do have a hydraulic press if that will help me any? I guess i'm just thinking out loud, the pulley would bend if I tried to support it via the pulley while pressing no? I think I will try the harmonic ballancer method, thanks for the input fellas. Joe

Still the heat is the key! I bent my first one, Thats how I know how much they cost. I went back out to the dealer to talk to the mechanic with the bent part in hand and he says you did not heat it enough. He never told me to heat it at all. The last one slid right off with a little heat.

When i finally did get the bent one off, That I soaked down several times with blaster over a couple of days the only part that showed any signs of oil was the keyway. HEAT IS THE KEY!

Drill a small hole in the end of the key and using your slide hammer and a self tapping screw pull the key out. Then you can turn the pulley on the shaft and "work" it off with each back and forth turn.

I tried heat, got the collar a nice dull red and put two prybars behind it and it popped and moved about 5/8 then it wouldn't budge. I put some more heat on it and got it to move another 5/8 or so, more heat but no more movement. It came out enough to stick my press plates behind it so tomorrow I'm going to do some Jerry rigging with some 6x6's on my little 12 ton press, between heat and pressure it should come out. Thanks for your help! Joe

Mr. Paul Funk did a wright-up on this and it was what I used and worked.

the first thing I would do is very carefully clean the exposed end of the shaft of any and all dirt and rust then use heat like Matt said you would be surprised at what a difference cleaning the exposed shaft will make before trying to pry the hub off.There's a video by HUbman about 6 posts back on removing these parts hope this link works http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7O4FE1tE_AM
Leon

Yep, I forgot to mention that; if you clean the shaft before, then it will practically fall off once you get it completely on the clean area of the shaft.

Paul Funk method , link

http://www.cubcadetman.com/content/i...lley&Itemid=53

I wish i had that motor im so good at that kinda stuff i would use heating it as last resort tho It does work good but once you heat it expands and contracts. Meaning once it cools off it will even harder to get off. If you can lift the pulley an tap the shaft it will come off just dont damge the shaft use brass hammer or rubber mallet :bash:

I wonder what happens to the seal when you heat it up like that,I am sure if you were just fixing a damaged S/G pulley you would have to change that seal.

I think I'd want to change the seal if I had it apart that far anyway. A new seal is also much cheaper than buying another basket pulley...

Rocking416-

That doesn't make any sense. It shouldn't be any harder to get off once it has cooled again. The hub isn't going to contract smaller than the original diameter after cooling back off to the ambient temperature.