PTO Removal video
 

Took my PTO off today , made a short video . My daughter held the camera in portrait , real pain finding software to rotate it to landscape .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7O4FE1tE_AM

In the service manual it shows 3 spring clips that are placed between scalloped dish and friction plate pg 2-44 Illust 2-63. I do not have them . Anyone know what they do . Is this why you here chatter . I do not believe I have them on my other motor in my 123 either.

Thanks for the video
 

I wish that I had seen that before I pulled my PTO off the first time! Good documentation.

Well produced.I give it 5 Cubs.
Those little clips are a pain to put in but it is do able.do you have a manual or instructions on rebuilding a PTO?
I do believe Matt G did a write up on his website on pto's.

Great video! I could not for the life of me get 3 of those clips in so I just went with 2 180 degrees apart. Why does just 1 throwout finger always loosen up?

That's a great video. Please make sure you make another when you put it back on. When I bought mine the PTO was sitting in the seat, so after I rebuild it, I need ot figure out how to put it back on.

Wish i saw this earlier. I thought one of my throwout fingers came loose but the disk part that has the fins or whatever broke apart on me. Luckily i Found a pto rebuild kit for it.

Great movie, I have it bookmarked if I ever come to a problem of that sort,

Thanks for your time,:beerchug:

Nik

THIS SITE ROCKS,

Spring Clips ?
 

Thanks for the compliments on video . I just love this site so many people already have helped me here Matt G and Yosemite Sam to name a few. ( pay forward )
Check out the " K301A /basic wiring " thread . Yosemite helped me with the wiring .

So what purpose do the 3 clips serve ?

Pulse301 , It is easy to put back on , everything should be all cleaned up and threads for set screws are rust free. Just reverse the process. and use rubber mallet to seat PTO back on bearing all the way . Friction disk should be recessed into scalloped dish so no longer flush . with outside edge of dish. Download the service manual . Mine was sitting just outside video frame on ground as reference. Meant to show it but forgot.

The three clips are the anti rattle springs. They supposedly save ware on the friction disk tabs. The Idea being that the tabs are already up against the basket when you engage the PTO instead of hammering into place.
I have always got one of my kids to hold the first one in place while I put the other two in.

Anti Rattel Springs
 

Those springs live between the clutch lug and basket pully lugs. I had to insert mine with the springs setting outside the clutch plate...pressing down on them and inserting directly into basket pully. I ended up removing the cast front end rather than pull the motor again to do this installation. Got all 3 in with no complaints!

Great video. I'm having alot of difficulty removing the set screws. I soaked them in Kroil for several days but they still will not buldge and i'm affraid I will srtip them if I apply more pressure. Can I put heat (oxy/acetylene) on the groove of the pully/PTO to remove them? It's my last resort but i'm worried I may mess up the metallurgy on a high RPM part or am I thinking about it too much? First post here guys, I have a 129 i'm thinking about restoring and this motor has been apart for years... Joe

I know mine were not going to come out untill I took a .30cal. bore brush using a drillmotor and swab'out the hole, blow out hole to clean. Then maybe the screws will work their way out, depending what screws your on.

Hub Man
Thanks for sharing this video. I have a 104 that I have to remove the clutch and keep putting off and now it doesn't look so difficult.

I had to drill and re-tap one of mine, and another one had already been bored out by one of the PO's.. who knows in 40 years which one performed that service? At any rate.. used a helicoil kit in the bored out hole... my biggest complaint about the PTO are the "locking" nuts that attach to the pressure plate screws.. mine ALWAYS work themselves loose.. I'm thinking nylocks next time.. it's sort of a pain to pull the whole assembly just to reattach those silly nuts... and yes.. I have two of them (primary and "locking") on each screw...

I suspect you might be doing something wrong, because two nuts locked together should not vibrate apart. I've done at least half a dozen of these things and never had this happen. You have to tighten the two nuts against each other (and tightly) or they'll loosen. I don't think the nylon insert in one of those locknuts will live long, as the PTO clutch gets hot from the friction of the belt and proximity to the muffler and engine.

I used your method to clean inside the holes but I used a .223 bore brush instead:biggrin2.gif: I soaked the holes again with kroil and still nothing, in my experience Kroil is the best penetrating oil on the market and still nothing so I used heat and they came right out alas I had to use a little force and patience, but they did finally come out. Thanks for the Tip. Now I have to figure out how this one part comes off the crank shaft, but i'll start a new thread so not to Hijack this one anymore.

The nuts for the pto's are made just for them so don't toss em.I think you can still get them from cub cadet.

Really? They look just like ordinary 1/4-28 jam nuts, which are what I've bought and used in there on several occasions.

It's the bolts that are special. But some times the pto can get hot Matt is right Nylocks won't work. You could use the all metal nuts but It's pretty rare that the IH system fails If properly torqued

Matt,
This is what a old timer at a cub dealer told me...I think he was just trying to sell me jam nuts for $2.00 a piece hehhehe,but I have used 1/4" 28 jam nuts too and have had no problems.What kind of open end wrenches do you use?seem like they have to be thin..

I took a Chinese 7/16" wrench and ground the open end down to the thickness of the jam nut.

I think your dealer was pulling your leg...the nuts are identical to hardware-store 1/4" NF jam nuts.

OK.. so are the jam nuts any different from a normal nut? I lock them together very, very tight.. but they continue to work loose.. I thought about the nylon and heat as well.. I'm wondering if I have some hardware store nuts..

They are 1/4-28 jam nuts.

Maybe try some blue threadlock.