122 Repower thread
 

What model driveshafts are common to the 122? Just the manual transmission narrow frames?

Thanks!

(edit: My original question was is 122 and 123 driveshafts the same... I'm adding this in here so that Fin's answer makes sense!)

Nope.
2 different animals!
2 different driveshafts as well
122 is a gear drive whereas the 123 is a hydro, the very 1st Cub to sport a hydro as well
No rag joint on the 122

Thanks Fins.

It was a dumb question but I've never been into a narrow frame manual trans before. I'm about to though!

Might as well make a thread about this. I'm swapping motors around and redoing the clutch in one of my numerous scruffy cubs. I'll be moving a really nice running 301 into it, and might as well redo the clutch while I have the engine out.
https://i.imgur.com/M4NW8KG.jpg
Of course, it's not going to give in easy. Here's one of the grill housing bolt/nuts. It's seen a bit of rust in the past, oh...50 yrs.

Some more work:

Engine is out. As seems common , there's some cracks under the engine mount on the frame.


Will replace driveshaft, pressure plate, TO bearing, teaser spring when I do the engine swap.



The hoist was a good call. Makes power washing underneath pretty easy.


Work continues....


https://i.imgur.com/StvUoiQ.jpg






https://i.imgur.com/b0G9CzT.jpg

I see an Oops pedal!

You do indeed!

So far, no inadvertent wheelies.... :-)

I should have known nothing on this tractor would go easy. I'm not sure if the flat head stove bolt was an International idea, but as soon as I saw there was no standard bolt head, I knew this would be trouble.

It was.




https://i.imgur.com/5iUsvxc.jpg


It was , since the square shank had rusted away. Out comes Dr John and my surgical angle grinder.













https://i.imgur.com/Q7OP4d6.jpg




More careful surgery:


https://i.imgur.com/fmEOmTc.jpg


...and I can pop the bolt out.




1 hour later........................


Back to it....waiting on parts.

There is a reason that type of bolt, slotted carriage, is used there bud.
You will find out once you drive/steer it across a bunch of uneven ground if you don't put one like it back in there.
.
.Hint.....it has to do with the drag link.

So it's an "oops" bolt chosen by engineering! I wonder if IH manufactured that bolt or sourced it externally (with that slotted head, there's no opportunity to mark it with the normal IH nomenclature. ) Gotta wonder if they had that specially made. Not going to find that bolt in the bins at ACE. :-) I'll jack up the front and see what the interference looks like with the axle in various configurations. At least the carriage bolt rusted its flats off before the frame did.

There's another "oops" bit of engineering on the other side of the frame where the nut is welded as it's impossible to get to the nut with the engine in place.

Having worked in design engineering my whole career (electronic, not mechanical, but the rules/conventions are the same) I can hear the discussions between engineering and purchasing at the time ... (you want me to source WHAT kind of bolt??? Are you kidding me?)


Got the cracks in the frame welded up and ground flat. Those two rear bolt holes seem to often crack from the accumulated 50 yrs of torque and vibration. I built some oversize "washers" out of 3/16" steel strap to fit under the frame to spread the load over a 2" area of the frame rather than the existing half inch area that the bolt head provided. I got some replacement bolts that are 3/16" in longer to compensate.



Next up: Clutch rebuild. Pull engine from 123 and install in 122. Install other engine back in 123.

watch for stress cracks around engine mount holes in frame. pound for pound the 122 is top self in my opinion. I only have three.

More work on the Craptastic 122
 

Waiting for parts and for Ophelia to move northward. I got the headlight pane out without snapping any of the studs, which took some time. As always, there's significant rust here too. PTO button has been used up.


https://i.imgur.com/6BT62Rd.jpg


Kroil and patience got the light panel nuts off . Some were no longer hex shaped :-)


https://i.imgur.com/PKOpfgt.jpg



https://i.imgur.com/ab4GN1x.jpg

One source for the truss head screws https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/40923617

Thanks for the link!

One with a hex drive would be sweet .... I've been searching.



EDIT: Local hardware store had one!

DIY clutch spring tool.
 

Next up: Clutch.

Turns out if you have a Black and Decker Workmate , some all thread and an eyebolt, you have a clutch disassembly tool:


https://i.imgur.com/XrXLpWK.jpg


This worked really well, and I was able to remove the top pins quickly and without drama, remove the spring tension by loosening up the eyebolt/all thread. The existing holes in the workmate worked perfectly for this. I put a small notch in the workmate joining surface with a saw similar to the one that's about 2" to the left of the driveshaft. It was really nice and stable even through the pounding it took to remove the Spirol pins.



https://i.imgur.com/aw6pKUy.jpg


It was a fun diversion, now back to cleaning parts before assembly.


PS: Whatever paint was used on the clutch fork is fantastic. It's the only non-rusty part on the whole tractor.

Waiting on a pilot bushing and some large Spirol pins for the driving plate.

After 60 yrs in this tractor, those Spirols didn't come out without a struggle.

Nice day to work on cubs!

• Pressed out old pilot bushing and pressed in new.
• Took tank off replacement engine and removed head bolts to get tin off, Mud daubers had wadded up half of the head fins and grass was wadded in a couple others.
• Noticed piston has 010 stamped in it. Someone's been in here and done a cleanup bore and new piston
• replaced missing side tin
• installed new head gasket and torqued head

And of course....cleaned parts.............................

Clutch fork probably epoxy paint. if replacement powder coating. Looks like you having fun enjoy. You might wanna check your brakes to.

Not sure I want "mission creep" to extend that far!

Last two machines got sucked into the mission creep. But i ended up working in different area,s that i said good enough & paint. Clutches , Ross steering, & PTO,s at first a challenge but with practice & patience its worth the trip. oh, revive a mower deck always chore of its own.

STILL waiting on spirol pins....................... donor 123 is back together and working.

Need help
 

Does this clutch assembly look right? I'm asking as with this assembled this way, I can still slide the disk around between the plates some. I'd have guessed that it would have been clamped securely between the slotted plate and the other fixed plate. Input appreciated . The description in the manual doesn't give details like the direction of the long snout in the TO bearing (which I have towards the front of the tractor), etc.

Starting from the BACK end of the driveshaft I have


Pin
Heavy washer
Spring
Washer (large diameter)
Throwout bearing (flat side)
Clutch lever
Teaser spring (against snout and of TO bearing
Washer
Slotted plate/pin
Disk
Plate
Pin



https://i.imgur.com/Sl0Q4Ao.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/ElMoneV.jpg

Got it.
 

I figured it out not long after posting.

In a rare burst of cosmetic work, I painted the driveshaft (it's new) and the fit between driveshaft and TO bearing was tight enough to prevent it from sliding easily.

Now fixed and disk feels very solidly clamped when the clutch is released and clutch works smoothly.

It really helps to stand the cub on it's tail while doing this (I have the engine hoist helping to keep it upright if I get too exuberant , but it's The Easy Way.


I have, but did not yet install those anti-rattle springs. Are these worth putting on? Hope not as I didn't


It was a bit like pig wrassling but I got the engine in and the clutch feels really smooth. Hope to get it buttoned up tomorrow. Getting the three drive pins and a new driveshaft and new pilot bushing all lined up and meshed together took some patience. I had the pin out of the clutch pivot to help align the driveshaft/pilot bushing as I lowered the engine. Glad I had the engine on a chain as I'm not sure I could have done this single handedly without it.

Clutch adjust probs
 

OK, everything's back in and mostly together.

To recap, I've replaced


Clutch disk
TO bearing
driveshaft
Pilot bushing



and cleaned everything up after an engine swap.



I can get the correct balance between brake and clutch, but when I press the clutch down fully, the driveshaft does not stop spinning when the trans is in neutral. The slotted disk spins.



If I engage the clutch (clunk!) then the driveshaft stops rotating. I made sure to lube the pilot bushing and test fit it with no problems.



If I have the engine off , when I engage the clutch I can see the assemblies separate as they should.


The disk I installed is a solid fiber material, with no steel piece. I did NOT install those spring pins on the new spirols in the drive plate. The new disk is thicker than the old one, which didn't surprise me, as the old one is 55 yrs old but I wonder if this additional thickness is responsible for the clutch not fully releasing? I'll loosen the engine bolts , move the engine a hair and see if lining things up better helps any

Clutch now working fine. Whew!

Not that much diff but most of the drive train is replaced
 

Always ratty, now runs great with a smooth clutch and a fresh engine and wiring.





Before:


https://i.imgur.com/d1r1Vj6.png
https://imgur.com/a/IOspKen



After:

https://i.imgur.com/v7pZ4z8.png

https://imgur.com/a/w3BLq06

Been a couple of months now, and I have to say that other than Allen's Original , this is the smoothest clutch/driveline cub I've driven . What a difference from the normal junk I drive.


I'm motivated to update the driveline in my O

The 122 is a wonderful model. This model was very popular in my area for many years. My first tractor I "rebuilt" was a 122. It was very strong and reliable, not to mention, educational. Oftentimes, my dad would use this tractor instead of his 1000 to move a giant flatbed trailer he had at the time. Two things that were improved upon with subsequent models was the "Quick Attach" set up (and no more pin on deck nonsense) and a deep dish style steering wheel (Quick turns while wearing gloves always knocked the throttle back). I not sure if any of the old pictures from 1979-1980 have survived. I'm glad you are having fun with the tractor! :beerchug: