Snow: Ags and tri-ribs --> turfs and chains
 

I've been off the forum for a few years while stationed overseas. However we're moving to Maine and it's time to plan for how to clear the driveway.

I restored a 149 a few years ago and put ags, wheel weights, tri-ribs and chains on her. When we had a foot of snow she was having some traction issues. I couldn't control the steering in the front and the rears spun and scratched up the driveways.

I'm thinking about going to turfs, as wide as will fit. My wheels are pristine with a new paint job. Should I find a new set of wheels (where would I buy them?), or just take off the awesome looking tires I have, but are pretty useless since I don't go into a garden with it?

For turfs, what sizes do I need?

Usually narrow front wheels(like you have) with the 3 rib tires are the best people say for snow removal. As much as turf tires don’t look as cool they give you the most ground contact and chains really enhance their abilities. If you are looking for different front rims I would check out ******** Marketplace and or Craigslist and or eBay.

The ****** are where I typed in f. A. C. E b. Oo. K. Weird. The website didn’t like that I guess.

I had to dig through my photos (my tractor is in storage), and it looks like I have the narrow 12x7 wheels. I'm running Carlisle Tru-Power 23x8.50-12 ags. I'd like to hunt down a pair of 12x8.5 wheels so I can run 23x10.50-12 turfs.

I think the model humber is 734-3013-0499. Any know for sure?

If Tri-ribs are better in snow than turfs, I'll just keep what I have up front. They worked pretty good until I got into some really deep stuff on a steep driveway.

Update- I just scored a set of 8.5JA wide wheels on eBay. Now to hunt down some turfs. Then to find out if my chains will fit (they're a little loose on the 8.50 ags) or if I'll need wider ones.

I use Carlisle All-Trail II tires on my 169, size 23/10.5/12. I wanted something with deeper lugs than the more common and less expensive turf tires since I do garden with the machine. I've been very happy with them and like the look as well. I live on a very steep hill and without chains it does better than I thought it would when we built the home and moved in. I do generally run two-link chains in winter so I can back uphill with the blower raised. The chains have to be tight so they don't rub on the inside by the battery box. I have loaded the tires with RV antifreeze, put on a set of IH wheel weights, and have added probably a hundred pounds hanging off the back. That is a bit overkill, and it does ok without the extra hanging weight, but I really hate the scratches on my new pavement and this pretty much stopped that.

In my experience, wider rear tires are counter productive on snow and ice. Great for flotation on soft ground, but narrower tires work better in the snow.

If you already have chains with crosschains at every other link and still need more traction, you need more weight on the drive wheels. I've had Turf tires on the rear, and I've had Ag tires on the rear, I found that it didn't make much difference when you have chains on.

I added a carrier on the rear of my 125 to carry a sprayer tank, but in the winter I put about 200 lbs of iron on it for plowing. It has worked very well.
2 years ago, I added more cross chains so it now has a cross chain every other link. The increase in traction with the extra cross chains was significant.

Following this tangent, how do I put a weight rack on a 149?

This is how I mounted a rack on my 125, I realize that 149's are different and this won't translate directly to a 149, but maybe it can give you some ideas.



*** I had intended to post a pic of the setup on my 125, but for reasons I don't understand, It will not post my picture. Weird, because it worked fine before.

Sorry, but I don't know how else to help you without a picture.

Snow Tires
 

I have these tires on front and rear of my 149 with snow blower. I have Rim Guard in rear tires. No tubes in rear tires and each rear wheel weighs right at 100#. Add 50# weights on each wheel and it will not need chains unless on ice. I have a steep driveway and have no problems unless it has ice. Rear tires are 23/8/12. I believe I bought them from Miller Tire but not sure. Thank you for serving and have a great day.
Bob

Do you have a sleeve hitch for your 149?



I bought a Craftsman weight rack and weights pretty cheap and adapted that to sit on the sleeve hitch. Since then I added a top bar to hold an additional 160# of JD suitcase weights. My tires are filled (an easy home job) one set of CC wheel weights and a home made wheel cover weights.

With all that the AG's still suck on ice. But I have a loader on it too.

Thanks for the photo Mr bob.

And I don’t have a sleeve hitch. Are they available anywhere or is it going to be a barn find to get one?

You have hydraulic deck lift, but I can’t tell if you have the lift at the back. If you do then a sleeve hitch would be handy anyway. Can be bought used or new. Mine is home made. Ignore the red cylinder, you won't have or need that. Just more home made stuff for extra lift.

I finally figured out my Picture Posting issues. Computers! :angry:

This is a pic of my 125 rear carrier that I made about 15 years ago. It carries a sprayer during the summer and iron weights in the winter for plowing traction weight. It's mounted using the same bolts that hold on the fenders. I was initially doubtful they had enough strength, but in 15 years have had no issues.

I don't think you can do one the same way on later models, but this is what I did. It has wheel weights plus the carrier with about 200 lbs of iron (plus me on the seat) and chains and it will still spin sometimes.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...Dave/125-1.jpg

Since this pic was taken, Ag tires were installed on the rear, additional cross chains were added and it now has a cross chain on every other side link. It also has had a hydraulic lift added to replace the strongarm lift.

Here's a photo while I was doing the restoration. I don't think I have any sort of rear lift.

No, you don't have the rear lift. You could get it all but for just adding weight then probably easiest is to bolt a platform to the back. Set the platform on the hitch then put a brace (flat bar or chain) on each side from the platform to the two large holes near the top and back of the frame. Run a bolt through the platform and the hole in the hitch to keep it from sloshing around. Just a couple layers of 3/4" plywood will be adequate.

I leave the tiller gearbox on my 169 year-round and made a weight rack that pins into the bottom factory holes and hooks over the top factory pins up above. The fellow that owned it before me added brackets to the bottom of the tiller gearbox for extra strength, so it attaches through quite a few bolts to the diff case. I think you'll either have to fab something up or else find a vendor like Extreme Motorworks that sells something that would work for you.