782D fun
 

So I purchased this 782D 5 years + ago and stuffed it in the ole chicken barn, then I tore that down years ago and it has been sitting outside along with many other machines.:Sorry:
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It's mostly all there except for the right side panel and hood hinges.

I start looking things over and I notice that the engine stop lever doesn't move to the stop location. It feels like something is frozen up. It's the one the screwdriver is pointing to.
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I watched a few vid's on Youtube so now I'm an expert and it shows with all my Harbor Freight tools.:biggrin2:

I pulled the injection pump and found 2 of the 3 pump elements stuck.
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The reason they were stuck is because the plunger (right side part) in the 2nd pic gets stuck in the cylinder causing no fuel to be compressed. Probably from getting gummed up. They were stuck pretty good and I had to lightly tap them out.
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I got all 3 pump elements cleaned and reassembled (pretty easy job). My question I have now is on the timing of the injectors? The (what I call barrels) cannot be removed to replace the O rings because they have tamper proof Torx screws filled with solder so they were not touched. I did not change anything and I see how it can be checked and I will do that. Is this something that should be a concern?
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So after I did all the above work I left the injector lines off to see if the pump was working and guess what????? The freaking starter won't engage the flywheel.:bash2:

The starter cannot be removed unless you cut the mounting plate (from what I could tell) so now I gotta pull the engine and remove the motor mount.:buttrock: Heck Ya, more work!

Maybe build another chicken coop??:Huh:

There is a more barbaric way. Since I strongly feel the OEM starter is mediocre from the beginning, I smashed the nose cone off the old original starter, and installed a much more effective gear reduction unit. Obviously, a hole will need to be made in the mount to clear the battery cable lug on the gear reduction unit.

Thanks 1711. Ya, I did the GR starter and GP upgrade on my 882 and it makes a world of difference. I purchased by accident about 10 years ago a non GR starter that has been on the shelf since then so I will put it on and see if the engine even runs. This one may go on down the road. Time to thin the heard.:biggrin2:

As long as you don't move those other bolts it should stay balanced. The pump shop loosens those and rotates the barrels to balance the cylinders together. It has to be on a calibration machine to do that though.

Update...

I got the injector pump back together, installed and bled. This was pretty simple, don't be intimidated.

Replaced the glow plugs with NGK 2031 (Y-103V).

Installed new China gear reduction starter.

Brazed the leaking radiator.

Engine starts and runs great.:beerchug:

After 2-3 minutes of running, it is in the overheating range on the gauge.:angry:

When I pulled this into the shop I drained what little antifreeze was in it. I then pulled the radiator off for repair, pulled the hoses and flushed both of those and the block with a hose. I got a lot of nasty rust out of the block. Look how this lower hose was clogged with rust and crap.
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The bypass nipple on the water pump was clogged also. Then I found the thermostat was missing. Now I'm pretty sure the PO had an overheating issue too.

Here is where I'm at now. Even with no thermostat in, it still over heats. It's almost like I'm not getting enough flow through the engine. The water on top of the radiator was only around 105 but the gauge was almost to the far right.

I ordered a new "el-cheapo" water pump for some testing to see if my existing impeller has corrosion causing poor flow.(I doubt that is the issue)
https://www.amazon.com/AULINK-15534-...ps%2C97&sr=8-7

I'm also thinking about adding some of this to the cooling system to see if it will help.
https://www.evapo-rust.com/crc-thermocure/

Do any of y'all have any suggestions? TIA

If that hose was clogged with crap like that, the water jacket/passages in the block might be partially/fully blocked too. Wondering if the water pump impeller is intact/turning properly? Sounds like a circulation issue.

Thanks 1711. I pulled the pump when I flushed the block and everything looked normal. I tried to use a small piece of wire to try and clean the impeller but maybe I didn't do it good enough.

I pulled the upper hose off of the radiator, ran that to a bucket and ran the engine keeping the radiator full of water. It did pump some water into the bucket but I just don't see much if any flow hooked up normal. I was also thinking partial blockage in the coolant passages too.

Can you back flush with a garden hose? Alternating flow direction may dislodge some of the bigger chunks. If you pull the pump can you get a snake in while flushing? Often motors will have plugged or are blanked ports that were for auxiliary flow to heaters or forced fluid block heaters

That much scale in the hose would definitely indicate plugged jackets.

The lower radiator hose has a some piping, did you remove all of those? You might have to fill the block with that stuff undiluted and let it sit for a few hours, then flush it out without running the engine.

Yes, when I had the engine out I had all of that removed, flushed and blown out with air. When I fill the radiator I had water coming out of the bypass pipe so water is filling the block.

Might be plugged with a radiator stop leak component of some kind, maybe to the extreme. PO might have tried to “fix” the rad leak a few times that way.

But radiator is only 105 at the top and cool at the bottom. If the radiator was clogged up I would think it would be hot.

The engine block jackets could be plugged with the same gunk and it can form globs with the scale. Definitely sounds like a restricted block. Flushing with a garden hose both ways with the rad out of the system is the best bet. The more volume and pressure the better. A thin spring snake can knock a lot loose to. You might even try a two foot piece of old throttle or choke cable in a drill.

You do not say you had the rady hot tanked, didja?

That's what I'm thinking Ambush.:angry:

Lew, I did not have the rad tanked. I did flush the rad both ways with a hose when I had it out.

I need to check the sensor next. Looks like the T-stat opens at 180*. I used my Fluke IR gun on the water jacket and got nowhere near 180* but I'm sure the iron takes a little longer to heat up.

I put this setup on my 1772 and I like it better because it gives a temp readout. It puts the sensor between the pump and the thermostat. I left the original one in under the hood and they read about the same.
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All good info guys.....Keep sending it and I'll let ya know if we get this thing fixed.

The water pump should be here today so I gotta pull the engine out to replace that. I'm thinking while it's out I may have to pull the head and flush all the water side ports with compressed air and water. Thoughts anyone?:bigthink:

Pulling the head is probably the wise thing to do considering all the junk you found in the rest of the system. Reason says the block will be the same. Not sure how much money or a PIA it is to get the rad tanked, but now would be a good time for that too.

But most of us would likely just change the pump based on wishful thinking. Then be really irritated we didn't clean the block too when we knew we should have. :bash2:

Too bad there isn't an effective chemical means of safely cleaning that, instead of tearing it down. I have used muriatic acid in the past to rid cooling system deposits, but it stinks, and isn't exactly safe.

I agree 1711. I’m tempted to see if I can use a long stiff piece of wire and compressed air but I know there are places I need to get that I won’t be able.
Could a cracked head be my issue? I have no mixing of any of the fluids that I know of.

I suppose it is possible, but not likely. You can pressure test the cooling system, and see if it holds.

You can try a cooling system caustic cleaner that they have for vehicles.
Also try the 2 way flush as others mentioned, that is a no cost thing.
Garden hose pressure is usually over #40 and that should dislodge some accumulation, but I'd bypass the radiator as radiators are not stout enough to withstand that high of pressure.
:bigthink:

I'm going to pull the engine again and flush it.

I know the answer but I'm gonna ask.......If I pull the head can I reuse the gasket just for testing? A cheap knock off is $50-$60, Kumar $65 & OEM probably $100+.

This little sucker is getting to be a money pit.:biggrin2:

Should never have torn down that chicken coop. it could still be resting there.

I'd pull the head, then decide.

I'd flush it before you pull the head.
Might flush out the surprise mouse or debris, nothing to loose!
Hard to flush with head off without blowing chit into pistons
No harm reusing the hd gskt as a test, use copper coat spray on both sides of gskt just in case it might want to leak a bit.
Being a diesel, ya it has high compression but you know that and just trying to find the "cheese" situation, and will replace later.
Edit:
Remembering either Tie otie or Hon doo had a TSB on flushing the heater core or cooling system using a recirculating pump using CLR/lime away.
Mechanic set up a 5 gal bucket and a cheap small recirculating pump.
put the solution in the bottom hose and let the top hose refill the bucket.
Seems like he let it recirculate 1/2 a day and it worked beautifully removing rust/lime
it might have been Eric from south main auto in New York but not sure.

I would not reuse the old gasket. The last thing you want to do with a diesel is suck some coolant into the combustion chamber while running. I've seen diesels go boom when that happens. Better safe than sorry, in my opinion.

I did what Ole George just described on a forty year old four cylinder inboard engine (son of the Iron Duke).

At first I hooked up a 12V marine bilge pump in a bucket of CLR and though after several hours the water was discolored, it didn't seem to be doing much.

Then I took a 110V sump pump, which was way easier to hook up anyway because it used a pipe fitting and it had way more volume. I used some caustic from the hot tank at work and diluted it by half. It's bad stuff. Every hour or so I'd tap on the outside of the block's water jacket and got quite a bit of rust flakes, some pretty big. Back flushed it the same way for a while. I ran the CLR through it again for awhile to get the caustic out.

Okay, here was my setup today.
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I ran the engine and when my bucket temp was at about 140 this is what the gauge shows.
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When I IR scan the block it’s pretty much what the temp is in the bucket.
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Looks like it may be a gauge issue. I’ll change that next.

Maybe make it straight and it will go down.

Those electric gauges are not always accurate, and those in particular seem to have a high failure rate.

Mine had been converted to a mechanical gauge by a previous owner. Fortunately, only the original gauge and sending unit were removed and discarded. If I choose to go back to original, all of the wiring is there.

Is there a Kubota rebuild kit for these injection pumps? What model is the injection pump on a 782d? I haven’t been able to find a tag on mine.

What is wrong with yours?