Confused!?!??!?!
 

I've got a 1968 124. Was given to me by a friend. I figured why not for a winter project. After cleaning it all up, I was able to get the thing started by just using jumper cables from another machine to the starter generator. Perfect it runs, time to continue. New fuel tank, bracket and straps, new choke and throttle cable. Well now I install all the parts and now it won't run no spark at the plug or the points. So now I buy new points, plug and wire, new condenser and coil, and new ignition switch as the one tab was broken. And still no spark anywhere. I don't know where to continue now? Please help. Thank you

Did you clean the points, they may be oil on them. Oem switch?

I assume.....your condition is, that the engine rolls over, but will not start.

With that in mind........and as a TEST......run a jumper wire from the Battery positive (+) terminal to the positive (+) terminal of the Ignition Coil. Does the engine start up ???

:bigthink:

I did clean the points, originally that's what got it going the 1st time. I did clean the new ones aswell. Correct I can get the engine to spin, using my jumper cables negative to the generator bracket and the positive to the A side of the generator. I will try the jumper test? Thank you for the help.

So I jumped the + side of battery to the + side if ignition coil, nothing happened?

Does that mean the engine did not roll over ???

Correct motor did not spin, turnover, nothing at all happened.

Do you have a good battery in the tractor?? Hook jumper cables to the battery if its weak, not the starter generator. If still no start then use a jumper wire to the coil as stated and then roll it over to see if it will start.if it starts then remove jumper to the coil and see if it continues to run with the key switch on. Hope this makes sense, good luck

To clarify, you would run the jumper and then attempt to start as normal. The jumper would only be to ensure that the coil is getting power; it wouldn’t start cranking just from hitting the coil with 12v.

Apologies if you’re aware, just making sure :beerchug:

Absolutely.

I guess I should have made that more clear.

:bash2:

Okay a little update. So I checked the battery, and I have 12 volts, good right. Not quite only had 12 volts because I had previously used jumper cables too try and start it. Come to find out last time I ran the mower with the new battery, it was not charging. And therefore drained it enough to not allow enough for a good spark. At least that's what I think was happening. And while pulling and poking at all the wiring I found the ignition plug, has a broken or loose wire in it. So that only works if I keep an upwards pressure on while turning the key. So now I keep the jumper cables attached, pull up on the ignition switch and it STARTS. I was so happy I ran in around the property with 2 flat tires! I guess now I've got diagnose the no battery charging. No apologies needed, I need the explanation. I'm a fixer not a troubleshooter.

Process of elimination, follow the facts. You'll come out somewhere.

You might very well find the Ign switch terminals are also causing the no charge condition.
I'd make sure all the terminal ends and spades they attach to, are clean.
The wire ends are available as is the plug they go into if they are bad.

Its common of those old machines especially when they sit outside.
The switch spades are metal and the wire ends are copper. The metal spades are lightly flash plated, and over time, rust.
This produces resistance in the connection which in turn causes more heat which in turn makes more corrosion.
it is a Domino affect. Take your time and be careful, the old terminals are delicate.

Most just replace the switch WITH THE PROPER ONE! (most important) as some "will fit" switches look the same but are not compatible. :bigthink: