Cub Cadet 982
 

There's a 982 for sale near me that I'm very tempted to go snag. Pics below; looks in solid shape. Also comes with weights, 50in mower deck, and snow blower. Runs and drives. Guy's asking $1,600.

Don't know it if has the Class-0 3-pt and PTO though. Was that standard, or was that an option? If it was an option, can that be added later?

From my research, some other questions:

1. I understand the Onan engines are hard to repair due to the difficulty of finding parts. Are there any reliable sources for them, or how have current owners here done it?

2. I'd be interested in brush hogging with it if it has the PTO. So far the only brush hog I could research for it was the Woods M4-2 Billy Goat, which they stopped making decades ago...so practically unobtanium because of the 2000rpm requirement...are there any others?

3. Are non-engine parts and components mostly interchangeable among the red 482, 582, 682, 782 series?

4. If I have older Cub Cadet implements like a 1A tiller are there adapters to make them work with the 3-pt hitch? I suspect the belt drive and gear box running gear required probably won't mount in the presence of the PTO but then again I've little experience with these.

Thanks all!

Optional, and yes they can be added.

Haven't heard of the difficulty issue, but more so the price of Onan parts.

Some yes, and some no.

The IH built Tillers would NOT fit on any Cub Cadet Super.

Cool, thanks!

I'm betting if it doesn't have them then finding them aftermarket is basically predicated on finding another 982 that has them. If that's what I really want then that's probably what I should wait for, eh?

Was it a completely new implement line for the Supers that was incompatible with older stuff? Are mower decks and snow blowers still adaptable? Cause I see it uses the same mule drive.

The Supers, were basically a "CAT 0" implement Tractor. Since the frame is longer than a standard Garden Tractor, the mule drives were longer also. Some implements from the Garden Tractor type would transfer over, but mostly implements specifically for SGT should be sought out and used.

I am beginning to like the 82 series tractors. Were these the last "true" IH built models?

It was an IH design. They produced them until the sale to CCC/MTD in 1980. CCC continued the 82 series until 1984.

Were the CCC machines identical? Did CCC use the same model numbers? If so, how can one tell the difference? Thanks!

Yes, and Yes.

The Factory Code, and all IH serial numbers were <699,999.

So after many exchanges about when to meet up, finally got out to see the thing.

He'd spent $800 to have the front main seal and other gaskets and such replaced, fresh oil and filters, only to have the hydro relief valves leak on him.

Like, it was literally squirting Hy-tran up and out of the holes in the top of the relief valves. At an alarming rate.

This after he claimed to have had them go through the seals on the back end too. What in the hell did that dealership do to make that happen? I'm sure it's just a matter of replacing the valves, but what causes that? Over-filled the hydraulic system? The receipt he showed me confirms he paid for them to mess this thing up.

And the hydro linkages aren't adjusted correctly. Stomp on the brake in reverse and it'll keep going after you let your foot off the brake while in the neutral position.

Engine runs great though and everything else appears in order. 444 hours on the original Onan engine. His father in law bought it new in 1980. Model 450 snowblower and an original, if in very rough shape, IH snow cab.

Those relief valves are ticking time bombs. They go without warning, and spew Hytran out of them. Not a huge deal. They are easy to find, and easy to replace.

The final IH made 982 was serial number 688712.

The final 782, and also final IH made Cub Cadet was serial number 694248. The CCC era began at serial number 700000 and up.

Minus the introduction of the al rear end.

Yeah that's no drama, I used the gentleman on Ebay to swap a set of mine on my 149 and the service was outstanding. Hopefully, that's all it is though, and not something else I couldn't see under all that spewing Hytran.

The hydro being so out of adjustment is annoying though.

That's a bare bones 982 looking at the pic. That will have the Maintenance Minder hour meter, but there is no way of telling how many times it was rolled around. 444 hours is only 20 hours of use a year, but I guess that's possible. It should also have the CI rear with aluminum axle tubes.

The rear cat 0 lift will cost another $400-$600 to add on and another $500-$700 for the rear PTO. Cat 0/2000 RPM implements are hard to find too.

There are several good Onan parts sources out there.
https://onanparts.com/
http://boomersonanparts.com/
Gary's Place in Hope MI

But hey, it's an IH built 982.:beerchug:

That is covered in the Service Manual and can easily be adjusted.

What if I wanted the split brake pedals too? (Why the heck would a garden tractor need dual brakes?)

They're for steering and traction control but I don't really use mine for that. They were optional on the IH built 982's but can be added also.

No I understand what they're technically for, I just can't fathom a situation a garden tractor would need brake steering for. I guess when you have the little one bottom plow on it, but other than that probably nothing else.

Yeah it's bare bones. I'm still gonna get it cause like you said, IH built CC and I'll after-market the 3-pt and PTO once I find an actual implement for it. Should only need the valves replaced and a new paint job. But that's the lie we all tell ourselves getting into a new project.

I guess the steering brakes would work good when pushing snow and you lose traction, I just got my super last year and always forget about that option when pushing snow. Maybe this winter I'll try to remember to check that out. ( last winter the brakes did nothing but kick it into neutral) I adjusted them this past fall, so maybe they'll work a little better this winter. :):):)

Not that anyone asked, but here's the pictures I took checking it out. Not too rough, really.

I hope that hem cover on the edge of the hood has not worn through the plastic dash edge.

It needs one more turf master to match. I love my 984 w/ all 4 new turf masters (mine are actually one step up from TM) :D

I'm actually planning on Ags for the rear and V61s in the front. :cool:

That's a great look on those SGT's. Here's one of my 9's with V61's and Firestone 23* on it.
Attachment 111676

Anyone that is running Onan engines, make sure your machine has this oil filter grommet (gasket) around the opening between the oil filter and engine tins. This keeps the airflow over the right side jug from escaping and forcing it to cool.
Attachment 111677 Attachment 111678

It has :(

Got it home today, finally, after some scheduling back-and-forth with the owner. (He's out of town a lot, but he held onto it for me)

Hytran is low from the leaky hydro valves (Already going to the post office to send to Machtech in the morning). Didn't realize these had a dipstick in the hydro, that's neat! Can I refill it through the dip stick tube or stick to filling it up through the hole in the rear plate?

Headlights won't light up when the key is in position.

Noticed the hour meter runs for a solid 3 minutes after the key is set to OFF.

Hydro control arms and levers don't appear all that worn, at least not nearly as bad as my two 149s, but I have to give the lever a tap into "forwards" to stop it rolling in reverse when I let off the brakes.

Oh, and the greatest heresy: Someone put a John Deere oil filter on the hydro. I will have to appease the machine spirit. Good thing the fluid levels are so low that I may as well replace everything while it's low.

If you are replacing more than a little Hytran, I would fill it through the openings from the removed hydro relief valves. That way it will fill quickly because of the venting. If you fill through the dipstick tube, you will encounter burping, and it's slow going to get it up to the proper level. The capacity is 7 qts. inc. filter.

There's maybe 1/4in registering on the bottom of the dipstick, so I'd say about an inch low. That's gotta be about a quart or two, right? I'm more worried the dealers who played around with it used Hygard. Not that it wouldn't work I'm sure, just wondering if the additives pack in the hygard wont eat up more seals along the way. Well, the fresh synthetic oil was probably going to do that anyway to all the original seals.

The plastic on the dash is worn through on one side. Is that something a little bit of bondo could patch up if done correctly?

I would seek a good used dash. I see them regularly that aren't destroyed or eaten through. You will need to pull all of the knobs, steering wheel, and both gauges to remove.

Hy guard is good fluid and so is the black filter :beerchug:
When Deere used the hydro in their tractors. they specified Hy guard.

That's what goes in mine :biggrin2:

The cool thing is the gentleman I bought it from, just had it serviced, and has the invoice to prove it. So I called the guy who did the work. Says he put in new gaskets and seals from the front crankshaft seal in the engine, to the rear plate on the hydro. The only thing that wasn't done was piston rings, and head gaskets, because those are still fine.

I asked what brand of fluid he put in there, so I could top it off with the same stuff. He said "Gulf tractor hydraulic oil". I can't find that stuff or a datasheet online for it to see what the specs are anywhere. Couple of things that might be what he's talking about, but unsure.

There's a complete 3pt hitch with the rear PTO set up for a 982 available to me. Is there a good write up or tutorial anywhere that shows how to assemble it and what to look for to make sure all the parts are there?

And is there a different hydraulic valve and arm that needs to be installed to independently raise and lower the front implement and rear 3pt, or is that all on the same system?

This link will take you to the manual for your tractor.

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=13226

It will answer all of your questions.

Great find!

The rear cat 0 lift will use a long lift bar attached to your existing cylinder.

Your machine has the iron rear. Check the hitch you are buying to see if it has the aluminum or CI cover. If it doesn't match yours, Xtreme has both typed for sale.
https://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Rea...d%20Parts.html

Here is the manual that has the parts breakdown.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/383%20&%20...%20Install.pdf

Mine's actually serial number 675081, so still an IH machine not CCC. So those manuals are the wrong ones for mine, the rear ends depicted in there don't look like they match what I have, though I assume other than a different looking plate it all goes together the same way? The set up for sale came from an IH machine though. Has slightly bent links and half seized rock shaft. Nothing I don't think a little judiciously applied heat won't be able to straighten out. The gent is being honest about what he has.

I could have sworn I've seen 82s that have two lift levers, one straight and one angled, to adjust front and rear implements separately. The manuals make reference to a single and double spool valve, I assumed that was a hint that there were split-control options.

Some 82 series tractors had an additional dash lever for the front hydraulic connections mounted to the right side frame of the tractor, typically for angling the front blades.

IF....the tractor had two levers, one was for mid-mount deck lift, and the other was for the "front coupler oulets".

:IH Trusted Hand:

from Emanual

Ah ha, there we go! I knew I wasn't crazy! Thank you everyone!


I guess the only part that can go bad on these things is the PTO clutch itself. If that ever fails can it be repaired or replaced with anything, or are working replacements a finite resource?