782 vibration after hearing pop noise.
 

While plowing snow last winter, I heard a bang noise and then started to feel an unusual vibration through the frame and steering wheel of my 782 which is a red IH model. The tractor starts up and moves around like normal but still has the vibration. My first thought was to check the drive shaft and cloth connecting disks, But they looked normal. My next area I thought would check was the flywheel to see if any magnets came loose, so I pulled the motor and now have it hanging from my engine hoist. Does anyone have any Ideas on what I should be looking at.

If your flywheel came apart I don't think it would be able to keep running.
Is it a KT17? Was it still running on both cylinders?

Yes it is a KT 17 series ll. Yes it is running on both cylinders. The magnets are glued to the back side of the flywheel and can break loose but would they jam in there and wedge between the block ? My next step was to pull the flywheel and with winter comming possibly a tear down on the motor. I have never had this motor out. Can you still find parts for this motor

Having a 782 myself, I would re-examine the Flex Disc's, and the Drive Shaft Couplers, to see if something is out of round.

Remove drive shaft and start engine to see if it still vibrates

Good Idea I'll try that and let you know what I find.

The KT17 regardless of series one or two will break connecting rods. Sometimes they will not damage the block or jugs. Pull the heads and see if both pistons move when turning the crank.

You can accomplish the same thing with removing the Spark Plugs and insert a dowel rod into the chamber, to see if it goes Up/Down.

you may be able to see them move just shining a light in the plug hole

Will check to see if pistons are moving and report what I find.

There are several things you can check, trying to find the cause of the vibration.

Check the tightness of the:
Frame to transaxle bolts
Frame to nose/grill bolts.
Fender pan/foot rest to frame bolts.
Any of those being loose can send vibrations into the frame.

Did you check for a driveshaft spiral pin being 1/2 way sheared, or loose bolts at the flex couplings?

Take the spark plugs out, and take the plug wires off. Then turn the driveshaft connector hub on the back of the engine of Hold your thumb over the spark plug holes while manually turning the crankshaft.. If everything in that cylinder is OK-you will have air forcing it's way out of the spark plug hole as the piston comes up the bore. If you have a broken rod/valve spring-you will not have air pushing up on your thumb.

Was able to remove one of the heads and found the piston was not moving while turning the crank shaft so connecting rod must have broke. Would any of you guys even attempt to replace the connecting rod or is this engine not worth saving. I'm not a stranger to engine swaps as I have done them on cars and old bobcats.

This same thing happened to the KT17 in my 682. I opted to replace it with a Magnum 18. A lot of guys go with the Kohler Command engines since they are still available new, and are proven.

If it is the original KT17 series 1, remove it and keep it for a few parts, like the Carb, maybe some bolts/nuts, sheet metal covers.
And if it was me, Id go with the better and later Series II or better yet Magnum M-18.
But they are getting scarce, so a lot of ppl are going to the newer OHV valve engines as mentioned.
The Series 1 just isn't worth fixing IF one could even find parts.
And most times they destroy the block, break the camshaft, among other internal destruction.
As much as I like the opposed twins, the series 1 with splash oiled connecting rod design was a mistake that never should have happened.
It dam near bankrupted Kohler, back in the day. :bigthink:

Mine is a KT17 series ll. I believe that the magnum 18 connecting rod, Pistons and valves are a direct replacement.

I think that they are, but aren't they more or less obsolete?

If it's a good tractor for you it's worth the effort to do the Command swap.

Was looking at the isavetractors site and they are listing those parts.

If you are going to save the KT17 S2, replace the original brittle governor gear. Use either an original cast iron hear from an older single cylinder K series engine, or a new and improved nylon part from Kohler.