2072 fuel pump replacement
 

Hi All,

Do i have to remove the intake manifold to remove the fuel pump. It seems to be under it.

Can you get the blades off of a 60" haban if you drive the mower up a set of car ramps?

thanks

What make of engine is in your 2072 ?

:bigthink:

Yes.

Thanks
Its a M20s

You do NOT have to remove the intake manifold to replace the Fuel Pump.

Okay that is good news. If my new one fails what is your opinion on an electric one

Meh.

I normally end up "rebuilding" the old one with pieces of the new b/c the bent arm that rides the cam and actuates never seems quite right on the new ones. At least my experience w/ KT17 Series II and M18.

That sounds like good advice.

I can't get to mount bolts for the fuel pump. It looks like you need to remove a bunch of metal shrouds. I have attempted to do this before and the side covers seem to bolted under the engine. Please advise I purchased an oem pump for 40.00

As seen in the Service Manual on page 11.14.....

The fuel pump is not needed on a 2072 as long as you keep the tank about 1/4+ full of fuel. It will gravity feed to the carb. I ran an 1811 for years without a pump and never had an issue.

That sounds to easy. I live on 5 hilley acres

Yes, that will make a difference if you have a bunch of hills.

I just changed a pump on my 2072 and did not have to remove the engine tins, just the small removable piece above it.

I have used this pump on my 3205 and it works pretty good.
https://www.autozone.com/fuel-system...42s/732036_0_0

Here is probably the best way to go. The video in post #6 is probably what I will try the next time I do one.
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ighlight=facet

Can you rebuild it while still installed in the mower

I faced the same dilemma on the M18 in my 1810 recently. You are correct the easiest way to access the bolts holding on the fuel pump is to remove the engine tin. That's near impossible with the engine in the frame.

I removed the small piece of engine tin that surrounds the fuel pump (I'm guessing you already took that off). The next thing I did was shove some shop towels down the hole around the fuel pump so anything you drop will not disappear into the abyss and end up getting throw around by the flywheel fan. I took a philips head bit from my bit driver set and a 6 point 1/4" drive socket that fit the drive end of the philips bit. Put the 1/4" socket on my 1/4" drive ratchet and was able to fish that into position. One had held the bit into the bolt head and one hand worked the ratchet. It takes some time cause you can only turn the ratchet a small amount at a time.

I tried to get fancy on the reassembly and replace the philips head bolts with hex head bolts but the bolt heads are positioned too close the fuel pump body to allow clearance for a hex bolt socket. I ended up reusing the philips head bolts and reassembling the using the "tool" described above.

Good luck. Remember there is nothing holding the bit into the socket so if you tilt it too far the bit will slide out of the socket when you are getting it into or out of position - that's why the shop rags are critical.

Thanks that is great info. Is the sheet metal that you removed on top? The side piece is not removable.
Can you just saw out a window in the side piece.

Yes the top piece is all I removed. I personally would not mess with the side piece that covers the head for fear it would affect the cooling air flow coming from the fan shroud to the cylinder head. But thats just me.

The fuel pumps can be removed on the M-18/M-20's by removing the small access cover.
I have done it multiple times, just be a bit careful as mentioned.
No need to go hacking an access hole in the cooling shrouds. :bigeyes:
The newer plastic pumps use a rubber sealing ring instead of a gasket making it easier to replace without gluing a paper gasket to the pump.
Do read the instruction paper provided with the new fuel pump, as they are not tightened as tight as the metal pumps are using a paper gasket.

Ok thanks
The shut off for the tank will be here Monday

Did you order a new tank bung too? Some come with them but some don't.

I got a shutoff valve with a ss filter and new grommet
Plus I'm buying 5 gal of non ethanol

A full tank of fuel these days will raise your tractor value by $20 alone :biggrin2:

Well after all this work the mower still runs 30 minutes gets hot and shuts off.
I will install new plugs and check for spark. What should the resistance be on the secondary of the ignitioin module between the two plug wires?
Can this be replaced and air gap set without pulling the engine?

thanks for all the help.

I have a M18 that would run for about 10-15 mins then shut off and would not restart until it was cool. The magneto was the culprit. A new OEM Kohler magneto fixed it. The engine should be pulled to properly replace it. Also, ensure the fuel system is venting.

That sucks! That would be pretty tough to pull the blower housing with the engine in the machine. I'd just pull it out and remove the shrouds and give it a good cleaning. Probably wouldn't hurt to pull the flywheel too and inspect and clean everything behind it too. I know, a lot of extra work but it really isn't that hard to pull the engines out of these things. There is a testing procedure for the mags and everything else in the manual found here. https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ead.php?t=4648

Thanks I have a M20. Can I use the M18 manual?

short answer, yes,---- and you can down load it free if needed.

I'm betting you will find a wad of chit around the magneto coil, never saw one that didn't have an accumulation there.
Also, look behind the flywheel and you will see chit accumulated there in the stator windings also.
Check to see if the "Maggots" are still glued to the flywheel while blowing things clean with compressed air
Treat them good and they will last a long time! :beerchug:

Thanks the ser man is great. The un-noticed mouse nest behind my engine really caused alot of damage. I will be taking an ohm reading soon on the secondary of the magneto. It ran 30 min the other day got hot shut off and then the next day fired right up. I ha ve my 89 F-150 4x4 in the garage now so i will be a few days getting back to you all. Happy 4th and thanks so much for all your help.

Can you get to the magneto easily to clean?

Are your mags any good?

If you pull the engine out, all you need to do is remove the shroud....and if you're that far into it you may as well pull the flywheel. With the flywheel pulled you can clean and inspect the magnets and also do the oil seal for the crank.

I know, that's probably a lot more work but then you can forget about it once it's done.