Cub Cadet 105 Hydrostatic Resto
 

Paralell to working on my 128 resto, I found this 1968 105 Hydrostatic on an ad here in Sweden, and just had to have it.
This one is pretty worn but complete and supposedly ran when parked in the 1980s.

The engine turns over nicely when I run a direct 12V from the battery to the starter.

I thought i will make a thread working on this little tractor as well, since I'm still new to these I appreciate all input I can get.

Some back story!

This Cub was bought by a scrapyard owner in 1968 at HI WAY GARAGE in Newfield New Jersey (anyone know about this place? Doesn't seem to exist today.) and used it up until the 80s.
Then he got a good deal on a new Cub Cadet and parked this one in the back of a garage at the scrapyard were it sat untouched until 2013.

In 2013 two friends from Sweden went to the US with a shipping container to buy car parts and one of them noticed this Cub sitting in the back shop and asked if he could buy it, and he could.

So as the second owner he brought the Cub with him to Sweden in the shipping container and stored it in his garage for 8 years before i bought it.
So now im the 3rd owner of this little tractor! Kind of like to think about how it made its journey from New Jersey to little rural Mellansel in the north of Sweden, bet nobody would believe that when it was brand new in 1968!

Anyway, i started off by getting a new battery for it and noticed it wont crank via the key, but when i route a cable directly from the positive terminal to the starter it cranks, although a bit slowly i think.
The mower deck spins all the time as well, i guess I'm supposed to be able to disengage this somehow? But i don't really get how.

After a new spark plug and some filing on the breaker points i now have a nice spark as well! I tried to get it to fire on starting fluid but nothing happens.

I will try checking all the cables next so that i can get it to crank via key and make sure I have sufficient power everywhere. And maybe do a compression test, but i really want to disengage the mower deck first so i get sufficient spin on the engine.

Can I find a wiring scheme somewhere online? Is there some kind of starting safety switch on these? I tried pushing the brake down etc. but still nothing.

That's a nice little history from where the tractor came and where it is now. I'm not familiar with Newfield or the scrap metal yard as it is nearly couple hours South of me.

It will be nearly impossible to start the hydrostat tractor with the mowing deck engaged, especially in the freezing temperatures. If you can't disengage the PTO by pulling back the PTO handle located on the right side of tractor near the steering wheel, for now I suggest you remove the belt that runs from PTO to mower deck. Heck, if it was me, I'd even remove the mower deck because it winter season. The PTO could be frozen up from rust or maybe you have worn or missing parts (PTO button, link rod, etc....)

Manual for you tractor: https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ead.php?t=4642

Wiring diagram link:
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=35

I need to add that im not in fact sure he was a scrap yard owner when he bought the thing new, or if the scrapyard is/was located in newfield either.

And also scrap yard is maybe the wrong word, salvage yard is maybe more correct? A car scrapyard.

Now back to the tractor, no the PTO handle does nothing, its a little bit siezed by rust as you say. I can move it at the front if i bend it with a screwdriver so it probably just needs some lubrication.

But yes its probably a good idea to remove the entire mower deck, that will surely need some tlc as well. And i found the procedure in the manual, seems very easy!

I also need to remove the handle to raise and lower the mower deck and try to dissasemble and lube that up since the little pin that locks it in different positions is all siezed up.

Thank you for the links! I will be sure to update here.

And another question, where is the neutral safety switch located?

Great stuff! I notice a Scout in your picture too. I bet it's not so easy to find those parts in Sweden either.



As others have said, take the deck off and get it out of the way while you fix the engine. It's a bit of a wrestling match but you should be able to get it off in 10 min. Just take a bit of the tension off the belt (front, below the "radiator" housing is a tension nut. Give yourself a bit of slack then remove the drive belt. You'll either have two spring latches or pins to next remove to get the deck to drop down, then wrestle it from under the tractor.

The PTO in front is likely stuck. It's a fairly conventional pressure plate/disk so you'll know how to get to freed with the help of the manual. Do not leave the "clutch pedal depressed" with no load on the belt tho or you'll likely be replacing the PTO button (throwout bearing) before you need to though :-)

Sounds like you need to debug the electrical path from the switch to the solenoid . Remove the battery to get to it . I'd guess that the switch itself is dirty/faulty. If you're handy with schematics (see manual section) it's pretty easy to determine if the switch is working or the wiring is faulty. Electrical connections can get intermittent after a few decades of sitting.


I'd lay off the starter fluid , but instead use a squirt bottle to shoot a little gas down the carb throat while you're in test mode. Check to see if you're getting gas from the tank to the carb ... that's often a problem source. Change the oil and make sure part of the rod doesn't come out with the decades old oil. Ive never bought a cub yet with an intact safety switch so I can't help you there. Removing it, while obviously popular, is one of the things we can't talk about here. I'm sure someone knows .


And thanks for the pictures! We love pictures AND project sagas!

Yes i have two Scouts, and one C series Travelall. Luckily most parts are easy to come by for the Scout, the C series is more troublesome. But we have quite a lot of Internationals in Sweden so used parts is attainable.

I removed the mower deck today! It was very easy, took maybe 5 minutes, mostly because the release pins were a bit siezed.
With the mower deck removed and more cranking speed it actually fired!

Then I removed and cleaned the fuel tank and the little glass fuel bowl wich resulted in a massive fuel leak from the glass bowl when I fueled it up, so the gasket is probably dried out.
I tried looking for a new one and I have found a new glass bowl and a new top part but no gasket? Is there somewhere I can buy this?

I also determined that the solenoid is faulty and causing no cranking by key, so need to buy a new one.

The gasket for the sediment bowl often is perished once the bowl has been removed. You may be able to find an O-ring that will fit, but be sure it will seat up inside the inner flange of the top receptacle. If not an O-ring, try any tractor supply store in town, and take your sediment bowl with you. The ring is a fairly common fit, as that type of bowl was used on many Cub, Ford, Porsche, and even Belarus tractors in the past. Suggest you buy your trans fluid there too, and replace that as I've found it has been a long time since anyone has touched the trans fluid in these machines.

For the solenoid, before you spend your money, use a 14Ga or larger jumper wire from the plus + side of the battery and touch it to the small terminal of the solenoid to energize the coil inside. If the coil pulls in, the starter dynamo will turn.

Alternately, you can use a voltmeter and measure the voltage of the small terminal to ground for ~12VDC with the start button pushed in. If you have voltage there, and the solenoid does not pick and close, or it picks but the starter does not move, it may be corroded internally and will need replacement.

For the solenoid, unless you want to be period and restoration correct, you may use any 12VDC three pole solenoid, as the case supplies ground, and the ignition voltage is supplied through the key and ammeter. You may use a four pole, but the "I" terminal will not be used.

Any of the solenoids like this will work:

https://rlpartssupply.com/meyer-3-post-solenoid.aspx

bra sökning!:beerchug:

I tried to find an O-ring that fit with no luck, but i found a brand new sediment bowl at a tractor parts dealer in Sweden online so I just bought that. My screw was quite rusted anyway, and the top half of the thing looked very crusty as well so a new one is probably the best way to go.

For transmission fluid, i read that the IH issued fluid is Hy-Tran, which doesn't seem to exist anymore. Is there another similar fluid that works good?

I did jump the solenoid, that's how I found out it was broken and needed replacement. I found a new solenoid from a Wheel horse that looks exactly the same as the Cub one so I ordered that as well!

Does anyone know if the headlights are the same on any other garden tractor or anything that might be easier to get hold of over here? Neither of mine work, but I have power to them. They are sealed beam right?

:beerchug:

They are a standard #4411 sealed beam head lamp (12V -35W).

Sealed beam lights are not very common over here, but i found a set in Denmark for cheap so i ordered them! They were only 30W but i think itll be ok!

There are 4411 LED replacements that have more Lumens and use less amperage. My son ordered a pair for his 2072. He likes them.

:beerchug:

Sounds like you are getting well sorted out there.

For the fluid, any of the hyd fluids with the spec MS-1209 or MS-1210 will work. Ask the tractor store for compatible to CASE Hy-Tran or Hy-Tran plus. Check the label for "meets MS-1209/1210 specification" or similar and that will work.

If you jumpered across the heavy terminals of the solenoid, you did not test the coil pick, or the wire from the starter button. I hope that you have operational starter when the solenoid is replaced. My instructions would validate both the starter button, and the wire from batt + all the way to the solenoid.

The starter buttons on these old tractors commonly corrode and do not contact when pushed.

The 105 does not have a starter button, rather a 3 position key switch. Only the Original, 70, and 100 had a starter button from factory :bigthink:

The test is still valid from the + of the batt to the small terminal of the solenoid. Will test the primary wire, and the "start" position of the key switch to solenoid.

Edit to add; will also check the operation of the Neutral Safety Switch. If the solenoid picks and cranks the engine, there is a fault from the B+ of the keyswitch, to the wire for the Neutral safety, and the wire from that to the solenoid.

:beerchug:

I'll second the neutral safety. You can easily bypass the switch temporarily to test function of the solenoid, by taking a small piece of wire, stripping the ends, and sticking each end into the connector that connects to the switch. It is very common for the thin metal tab that pushes on the switch to snap off with age. Would recommend replacing it though, because safety is very important especially on these old machines with very few safety mechanisms.

Where is the neutral safety switch located? I tried looking around the brake pedal but i cant seem to find it :Huh: although i admit i didnt look very enthusiastically lol.

I will probably get some parts tomorrow so this weekend im going to have a go at it again and see if i can get it to start, and also try to fully dissasemble the engine for my 128.
I cant get the pulley off so i can put a puller on the flywheel, so i need to fabricate a puller for the pulley today. Lots of pulls there lol.:biggrin2:

There seems to be very little pictures of the neutral safety switch online, I have a couple 105 parts frames at home so I can get pictures of where the switch is located later.

If you follow the brake pedal down under the machine and find the shaft it attaches to (you'll need to remove the mower deck if you haven't already) somewhere towards the middle of it you should find one of these tabs, or the remains of one. If its not there at all then there should be a single roll pin there that holds it in place. This is the tab that I mentioned will break.
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i....jpg&usqp=CAU\

Once you find it, to the front of it (I think, it could be to the rear, its been a while since ive climbed under my 107 and looked at the setup) but you'll see the switch. It mounts to a sort of frame crossmember that the steering gearbox also mounts to. The switch looks sorta like this:
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...0.jpg&usqp=CAU


lastly, which pulley? Is it the drive cup/pulley that mounts to the flywheel side or the basket pulley that belt drives the starter/generator? You mention that it prevents you from removing the flywheel. The drive cup can get a bit stuck but I believe all you need is a sort of screwdriver to slowly pry it free.

As for the basket pulley on the other side, they do get difficult to pull off and there are a couple ways to remove them without damaging it. Jeff in PA (a sponsor on this site) sells a puller specifically designed to remove the basket pulley, or you can go a different route and drill a pair of holes close to the center of the pulley, so that you can use a standard puller on it. You never want to use a 3 jaw puller on it because the metal is thin and you will easily make the pulley unusable.

I suppose your PTO could also be what is stuck though :bigthink:

Not sure this will give you any better idea then just crawling under there
but here is a look at the switch attached. The tab is broken on this one as well
so it is not functional but is still in place. Might look a bit different as its
off a 125 but I think it's similar

KenAttachment 109495

Attachment 109496

Attachment 109497

Ken

Well thank you Ken for those photos :beerchug: saved me from having to get down on my back in the snow :biggrin2:

I went out and took a couple pictures on my parts frame 105 that show where it is without looking from underneath. Directly behind the engine, if you remove the plate that covers the tunnel underneath the dash tower you can see the back of the button, right next to the steering gearbox. Then, looking from the space where the lift lever is (with the lift in the max. raised position) you can see the front of the switch as well as the tab that actuates it, except in my case it is snapped off.

Attachment 109498Attachment 109499

Thank you for the pictures! Now i should be able to find it :biggrin2: I'm going to do some work to it tonight, i still haven't received neither the sediment bowl, solenoid or headlights. But I'm going to continue with the electronics and work some on the 128 engine.

This is the pulley that's stuck, I have made a pulley now so hopefully it will pop loose tonight.

:beerchug:

I got the pulley loose with my homemade pulley puller! It was pretty siezed on.

What thread size are there where you put the puller on the flywheel? I need to chase the threads there, and the imperial system is not my strong side lol :biggrin2:

Small update, i got the headlights and the sediment bowl yesterday, deliveries seem to be reeeeally slow right now. Probably because of all the christmas presents the postal service needs to handle.

Still trying to find out the thread size on the flywheel, i really need to chase those threads..

5/8"-18 tpi

Are you talking about the two small tapped holes on either side of the center keyed bore on the flywheel?

Those little holes are tapped 5/16-18.... The crank 5/8-18

Exactly, the small holes where i can attach the puller. Thank you, i will get a tap today!

Ive got all parts delivered now, gonna try to do some work to it tonight.

After a long winter of snowmobiling and working on cars i finally got to working on the 105 again.

Last night i crawled underneath and checked the neutral safety switch, and it was there all right. Pressed it with my thumb and voila, cranks with the turn of the key!
But there was nothing actuating the switch on the shaft from the pedal, looking at your pictures there is a "arm" that presses the switch when you press the pedal but that does not exist at all on mine :bigthink:
So i bypassed it for now.

I then replaced the sediment bowl, carburetor, the rest of the ignition system and lastly changed the oil in the engine.
It fires now but it wont stay running.

Do any of you know the part number for the oil filter for the hydraulic system?
And also, does anyone happen to know what thread size the attachement screws for the headlights are?

The Hydro Filter is 923-3014.

Suitable Filter Replacements are........see: Filters

On the head light, there should be two bolts(screws) that protrude from the mounting panel, for each headlight. The thread size is 10-32 (#10 size x 32 threads per inch).

Check your email account, as listed in your profile.

Glad you got if fixed and that it was such an easy repair!

I'm a big believer in the "98% of small engine problems are fuel problems" statement. Especially with these old metal fuel tanks.

R Bedell: Thank you!

Jbrewer: Thanks! Yes i share that belief with you but this seems odd.
Now it won't fire att all, not even with starting fluid. I have great spark and obviously fuel (starting fluid at least) but it won't fire at all.
I tried to do a compression test but I read that the kohlers have a Automatic Compression Release valve so doing a test is not easy. I got a reading of 60 psi but that doesn't really say anything does it?

Did you check the timing? I'm wondering if you tampered with it in replacing parts and such.

Regarding your compression test... The requirements:
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10

To set timing by feeler gauge:
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14

Or, more accurately:
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ead.php?t=4405

No i only adjusted the breaker points. I will try and set the timing and see if that fixes it. Thanks!

If you adjusted the breaker points, you've adjusted the timing! What did you adjust the breaker points to?

Oh okay lol, i didnt check the links yet. I set the points gap to 0.5mm, just a little less than 0.020".

I will try setting it with a multimeter later this week and see if that helps.

Otherwise, is there a way to do a proper compression test on a Kohler?

I got some garage time today after all, i tried setting the points to about 0.017" instead. And after some cranking the engine actually tried to fire so I guess I'm closer to the timing the engine likes.

I was going to set it with a multimeter but couldn't for the life of me find the damned sight hole!! I'm probably just stupid, but could anyone point me in the right direction?:BangPC:

You can set the timing anywhere between .015 to .020 inches (.38 to .51 mm). Pick the spot where the engine runs the best.

:IH Trusted Hand:

Till you figure out they camouflaged those sight holes they can be a bit
tricky to spot. Take your time even if it takes several tries and make sure
your points open at the precise time you see the S line in the sight hole.
Then that variable will perfect and not part of the ignition equation.
Here is a look at the sight hole. Right under the rear bolt holding your
starter/generator. Hidden behind the little yellow plug.

KenAttachment 110100

Attachment 110101

I tried to pry on that little plug but couldnt get it loose so i figured that was just an embossment in the metal, lol :bash2: Thank you! Then i will try setting the timing that way to be 100% sure.

Tonight i tried setting the timing to 0.020" (really 0.020" this time) and did the multimeter check, and it was spot on! Reinstalled spark plug and it just would not fire.

Pulled spark plug and checked spark, nothing. Turns out I got a little debris on the electrode so the plug would not fire. Cleaned it up, reinstalled and sprayed some starter fluid in it, and it fired right up!

Also it drives both forward and backwards, which is nice!


Now it will idle but not perfect, I probably need to adjust the carb some (Chinese knockoff). What screws are what? I read that there is an air mixture adjustment screw as well as an jetting screw, but not which is which.

Found instructions for and did a baseline adjustment today and now it runs very good!!

Drove it for about 2km on road just for fun, lol.

Now im just waiting for some parts from CCS and then it will be ready for summer use, and I will continue with the 128.

Then the 105 will get some love again next winter.

Great, glad you got it on the road. Sometimes I have to take one of mine
to the mailbox just to get some work for them.

Ken