K321 head and tin assembly
 

I posted this to the forum before and never got a definite answer. Assembly drawings DO NOT help

I need to know how to assemble the head and cowling on top of my k321 like the gas tank mount etc.

Mine has head studs which are still in plus a few head bolts. I need to know where any spacers go. I found 4 spacers. I think I have everything needed to put back together. A picture would help.

You make NO mention of the Tractor Model you are working nor the complete Kohler Model either.

:Huh:

Tractor. 147. Engine K321. Engine number mentioned twice in thread

A accurate and complete Kohler model number would be like this: K321-60226. This fine tunes and can accurately answer your question(s).

Its K321 A. Looks like 2257311 maybe

Hope these pics help ! this engine has all bolts ,but if you got studs usually there would be a spacer over the stud to fill the void in the head then your tin baffle would sit on top of the spacer then the washer and nut ! these studs would all be out in front of the fuel tank mount which sits on top of the large blower housing ! :beerchug:

So if I understand correctly my engine has 5 studs and 5 bolts. My studs are all on the blower housing side.(So I need FIVE spacers??) The stud nuts are torqued along with the head bolts AFTER fuel tank mount is in place?.

Pictures of what you have such as the top tin and muffler shield would help.

I've not seen studs on the fuel tank mount unless someone changed something , pics of your tins and head would help as Lew indicated .I believe the most studs I've seen in a head is maybe 2 or 3 but that doesn't mean someone couldn't add more ?

I will get a pic but correction. I have 4 studs and 5 bolts and 4 spacers

All 3 of my 1x6 1x7 tractors have studs on the fuel tank mounts... in total 5 studs, 3 for the tank mounts and 2 for the heat shields.

If the rain stops for long enough tomorrow I'll go take apart the top of my k321 in my 147 and get some pictures of my setup for you.

Pictures, as promised. Sure hope these help because I dont really want to go back out in the cold and rain to do this again.

So this is the setup of my 147. 5 head studs and 4 head bolts. 3 head studs to hold the gas tank mount and 2 studs to hold the heat shield. I realized as I took these photos that I never bolted the gas tank mount down due to needing to pull it off again, as you can see by the 3 studs without nuts on them.

Attachment 109253Attachment 109254

With the heat shield removed... I did not pull the tank off, hope that doesn't hinder anything
Attachment 109255

Here's a head stud pulled, with all its spacers. As you can see, first is the 3/4" tall spacer, then a large flat washer, and then the nut. The 2nd nut is for holding the heat shield/fuel tank mount.
Attachment 109256 Attachment 109257

This is a head bolt. No spacer is used, just the large flat washer.
Attachment 109258


At this point I discovered something strange. I went and grabbed my probably junk head that was overheated and warped, and I noticed something. This head was on an engine that had all head bolts, no studs. The places where you put the bolts are much taller on it than the head on my 147's k321. It essentially has those 3/4" spacers made right into it. Since you say you do have studs, I assume you don't have this style head, but still found this interesting.
Attachment 109259 Attachment 109260

Although they don't fit down into my junk head, this does a pretty decent job showing how everything mounts in order.
Attachment 109261Attachment 109262

And lastly, just to show that I indeed have the same exact head bolt/stud numbers on my other 2 cubs, here's the 106:
Attachment 109263Attachment 109264

And the 107:
Attachment 109265Attachment 109266

I really hope this shows you what you were looking for and gives you the information you need.

Well I suppose any combination would work ,as long as you got the head securely fastened, the right length bolts/studs ,the tin in the right spots and enough spacers to take up the voids ! I do know I have to remove the gas tank to retorque the head bolts !
:beerchug:

Well that sure makes things a whole lot clearer 107. Great explanation.
Time to tuck this thread in the might need that someday file.

Ken

107 thank you for all those pics. Its too dark to take a pic tonite but I will get one here tomorrow evening. Think I got mine figured out. Missing one spacer and I BELIEVE the head bolt nearest the oil fill tube is a longer bolt as it holds the tin down.

Hey, no problem, always happy to help out! That is part of what this website is intended for after all! :beerchug:

One more small thing. I need the torques for the head and oil pan bolts. Tks in advance

That data is in the Service Manual.

:IH Trusted Hand:

After the manual said soak the head gasket in water I don't find it to reliable.Anyways I found them. Tks

The head gasket soaking used to be the normal procedure, however since the manuals were printed 50 or so years ago, new designs of head gaskets have been made that are a lot better than the old old ones, and they do not require soaking in water.

Head bolt torque is 30 ft lbs, start at 10 or 15 and work your way up to 30 in increments of 5. Be sure to do this following the correct tightening pattern, which can be found in the service manual.

I do not know the specific specs on oil pan bolt torque.

I found the pan torque around 25 to 30 lbs.

The rod bolts say 280 inch. That converts to about 23 to 24ft lbs if its ok to do that