CCO rear lift casting measurement question.
 

Hi guys! I've been messing with the idea of making a lift setup for my Original and made these from pictures off the internet. Now, I'm not sure the measurements are exact, as I figured all the measurements from nothing but pictures. #2A is the one I'm most concerned about, the rest I could probably figure by fitting on the tractor if I had to. If anyone could cross check my measurements I would really appreciate it, thanks!

I decided to proceed with the calculations I made, I only ended up adjusting a few, so I had it pretty close. I started by making the top U bracket and the lift bar. The best I could tell the lift bar has a 30° bend that the belly almost touches the gear reduction housing at full lift. The U bracket is 2 1/2" x 3/8" steel. Next I bored a 1" hole in a 4 1/2" long piece of 1 1/2" round stock on the lathe. Then I cut two slugs of 1 1/2" stock to weld to the tube. After welding them on I cut the ends off so the tube is centered. Next I forged the upper arm. More in the next post.

Next I cut off and welded the upper forging on. Then I made some templates for the two plates for the support rib and cut them out. After that I welded everything up and cleaned it up. Finally I bored all the pivot holes out to 3/4" and made the pivot spacers on the lathe. It isn't a perfect copy, but it came out pretty decent. The only thing left is a pin and the lower U bracket.

:IH Trusted Hand:

That looks great, thanks for the upload.
I like looking at what others have done and fabricating things for my cubs.

If the History Channel's program "Forged In Fire" concocted anything other than knives and swords, you could be a sure $10,000 winner.
Nice job!

Truly a work of art. How fun will that be to employ?

Ken

Very nice job!

Great job Ben, that piece looks great. With a forge like that do you make other things too? If so, please post some pics up. I like seeing stuff like that.

Forging is definitely an art from the past. I'll bet you have some interesting items around the shop that you've created!

That is a really good job.

I like what you have built, nice craftsmanship.
I would suggest that you turn your mounting "U" bracket that you bolted to the rear end, upside down.
The way you have it pictured, you are trying to "bend" the bolts when lifting an implement.
Inverting it, you will be trying to pull the bolts out of the rear end, not bend them.
Just my two cents, you didn't ask for.:bigthink:

Thanks, it would be cool to see other things made on shows like that. We honestly use the forge for more practical things a lot, it’s much cheaper for big projects than using the torches.

Thanks, yeah I’ve made some other non cub items, a candle chandelier, fireplace crane and some other items. It’s actually my brother’s forge, I just use it when he isn’t looking:biggrin2:

Thanks for the input ol’George. I actually built it just like the stock design, which I guess has worked for 60 years, lol:beerchug:. To tell you the truth I wasn’t sure about it myself at first, but this is an OEM one from the internet......

Very interesting and well done! Thank you for posting this!

Not remembering what the oem looked like, I tend to over build things or think them out, and when doubt, go heavier or stronger.
And it is a cub, not a large piece of farm or construction equipment, and the fact you copied a proven design, I'm sure it will be just fine.

I never was one to follow the crowd, always inquisitive and thinking/asking questions.
sometimes that is good, sometimes it leads to interesting results! :bigthink:
I do like your project, and every time you use it, a feeling of accomplishment is derived. BTDT :beerchug:

I initially thought the same as ole' George, but in this case the load on the bolts is shear force. The lever being above and being pulled actually forces the U bracket against the diff. If you were just hanging a load off the U bracket (without the lever) then definitely it would be up side down.

Basically the deadweight of whatever you lift will put that amount of shear force on the bolts. The tensile pull on the lever and link will be much greater.

I agree, the way the force is applied should be applied into the rear end and down, not really wrenching on it.

I agree with you ol'George, if I was designing it from scratch I would have run two pieces of angle iron vertically with a cross brace in order to catch 4 bolts. The actual pivot point and lever almost have to remain where they are on a tractor with fenders as altering the fulcrum point or lever length would cause interference in the fender pan slot ( this was one of the biggest challenges I had getting it right, because if I messed it up the lift bar was going to grind in the fender pan, lol). Typically I overbuild things, like this Bush Hog GT I helped my brother with. This was an engine repower (25 HP Kubota), rear end swap and we built the 3 point.

Nice work!