Quick Disconnect and Pin on decks
 

How feasible is it to used a Quick Dis deck on a tractor that's currently pin-on? I know the mule drives are different, but wonder if there's more different than just the attachment method (width of mule drive frames , maybe?)


I'm not sure of the Lore of Mower decks. (Did the attachment scheme come along with the advent of wide frames maybe?)

John

Anything is possible with some flat bar stock steel, a cutting device (saw or torch) welder, tools, and ambition.

:ThumbsUp:

So, I'll conclude that there's a big difference in the associated mule drives and to not investigate that idea! :bigthink:

Not specifically the mule drive, but the scissor part of the lift mechanism that attaches to the front of the deck. The pins have to be removed and the remaining metal reshaped a little bit. Then you have to position the rear q/a hangers and drill new holes to mount them.
I have done this 4 or 5 times. It's not just a change brackets and go mow thing, but it's not rocket science either. This is a 38" pin on that I modified for a Cub 70.

Ironman:

Is that tractor you posted yours ??

:bigthink:

It was. Sold it last November.
Guy bought it for his kid for birthday/Christmas.
He sent me this picture.
Whatta dad, huh?

Regardless, nice job on that tractor. Interesting paint job.

Thank you.
International Harvester Red and Massey Furguson Gray.
This was "before"....

I thought gray was the shade used back on 10-20 series of McCormick-Deering tractors.

Quite a change on the O, IM.

I thought of Massey when I saw it reborn in red and silver too!

About '36 and back they were grey but some got IH red in '35/36
but approximately, it is a good reference.:beerchug:

I dunno, the can reads

I've used that (JD green) it fades unless you use hardener. :BlahBlah:
Even genuine IH iron guard does without hardener.

Ironman, that is one very good looking little tractor!!. I may get in trouble here, but yellow is my least favorite color and white is next. If I was was doing a total resto, I'd pick your color scheme over the Cub original, for sure.

Can you say a bit more about the acetone and hardener in the paint?

The products I used are pictured.
I did two coats,
5 parts paint, 2 parts reducer, 1 part hardener.
I used acetone for reducer because Rustoleum dries slower than you hair grows, acetone speeds it up.
Doing it again, I would probably add another part reducedr to the second coat to get better flow out.

Thanks for the great information. (This should be stickied, as it's buried in a deck discussion but is great info).

I have a 35 gallon compressor and some HF spray guns. One of these days I need to try using them as I've never sprayed anything but with Rattle Cans.

You do really nice work IM and thanks for the info.

Fill that china fright gun with wadder and spray the outside wall of the garage. then progress to a large piece of cardboard observing various spray patterns and air adjustments so you get a feel for the gun's characteristics and how they are modified with the adjustments.
Do understand paint is a lot thicker than wadder so adjustments will be different using paint/primers.
But you will get a feel for the gun and how the adjustments affect spray patterns.
Then shoot some primer on things that are going to be sanded, getting more experience.
It is called a larnin' curve as we all know, and it causes you to get better spraying paint without a lot of runs or orange peel.
one day you will notice you can do a pretty good job without a lot of misstakes :biggrin2:
Do watch video's of techniques on Yall' tube!!:beerchug:

Great info Ironman! I, and I'm sure many others, would be very grateful if you were to do a thread on your procedure. Your results are very impressive!.

Did you prime the metal first?

You're right about the Rustoleum. I used it for the loader build and it was aggravating to pick up a painted piece two days later and get paint on my hands. :bash2:

I used POR 15 on the bucket, the disc frame and the sleeve hitch, so we'll see how that stands up.

Thanks for the compliment and apologies to jbrewer for hijacking his thread.
I have used and like POR 15, but mostly I go with KBS Rust Seal for no particular reason.
I did my 149 frame a few years back with KBS Rust Seal. It was winter time so I brushed it on and it came out like glass.
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/rustseal.html
Primer yes, I like to strip everything to bare metal so I prefer a self etching primer.
I saw this stuff at Rural King and thought I'd give it a try on a project that I am working on now.
It's very reasonably priced and I was pleased with the results.

Ok, now you're making want to find a tractor, redo and keep it as a "Pretty Boy" machine. :ThumbsUp:

I'm going to check if Majic products are available here. Especially the primer.

Thanks George, that's good info. I'm more of a "preserve but use" owner, so some imperfections are fine with me. I'll give that a go next time I do this.



John

Primer:
is is generally recommended that a 2K primer is shot on all properly prepped surfaces first as to lock out all moisture that causes corrosion.
Then proceed with filler, (bondo) and high build filler primers, with block sanding as needed for a finished surface ready for top coat.

Well I'm old skool, and like to apply filler(bondo, kitty hair etc) first because I'm used to using body lead after welding/bumping then applying 2K primer /high build filler primer.
Either way works.
Todays 2K primers do a good job of sealing the surface from corrosion,
and one tries to not scuff through that initial 2K barrier---but it happens as surely as last nights dinner passes today.
After one is happy with the smoothed surfaces you have created, shoot a final wet coat of 2k primer observing the recommendations of applying a top coat within 5 days (ya can go a day more)
do observe your data sheets and the thinner temps, and humidity is NOT your friend, it causes blotching/blushing (flat looking paint) do shoot topcoat on low humidity days in afternoon after humidity that burned off the grass has a chance to dissipate into the higher atmosphere.
Now this all sounds overwhelming, but it Ain't,
------- so does explaining how to ride a bicycle on paper.:beerchug:
DO wear a good respirator not a cheap China virus mask.
The VOC's in the paint are not life friendly.
There are good painter but there are not good OLD painters.
If you can smell the paint through your mask you might as well breathe toxic
poison.
A supplied air hood is really nice or a good charcoal canisters mask with appropriate over filters is good also.
Remember;
the data sheets are there to help you, also remember you have a window on can life of any product that you have mixed hardener into.
and clean up your gun first thing when you are done shooting product.
Take it ALL apart, not just washing out the paint cup.
cheap lacquer thinner works wonders as a gun/cleanup solvent.

Do wear protective gloves when handling product and solvent.
The quickest absorption rate of the human body is the hands/forearms and scrotum.
Don't spill that shit on yer balls!:bigeyes:

I don't know how long a hobbyist will be able to continue to purchase oil based paint before we get shut down unless we have spray booths/water bourn paints.
There are restrictions now, that will only get worse.
But I'll not go into that here.:BlahBlah:

Yeah, pretty soon all the paint we're left with will be the type that is of no value (kind of like with cleaning solvents, wash machines, etc...)

..........and by the way, thank you for that painting treatise. There's lots of good info in there. I appreciate you taking the time to type it up and share what you know.