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-   -   782 cab!!! (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=58549)

poellot 04-10-2021 11:07 PM

782 cab!!!
 
4 Attachment(s)
I just got the restoration finished. Still working on the 1a tiller, have not started on the Haban thrower or plow yet. Deck is finished as well. Question is, should I leave the cab on all year round?

poellot 04-10-2021 11:11 PM

4 Attachment(s)
I have the front covers as well. In good shape.

ol'George 04-11-2021 07:02 AM

In my opinion, a Definite no, leave the cab to Uber and checker. :biggrin2:
They are hot, noisy, and usually get in the way, one way or another.
I have a 782 with that very same cab, mine is heated and a winter dedicated tractor with a QA42 thrower.
Now if this was a modern sound guard cab, on an AG tractor, that is another story, ---but it is not.
Just my solicited opinion. BTDT others might disagree.
If you are only going to show/parade the tractor, yes leave the cab on as well as the thrower or a blade.
While throwing snow, you will love the cab much!
It is the cats meow, especially if you heat it.:beerchug:

EDIT:
Keep the red canvas out of the weather or it will fade and look like flat orange paint.
The plastic windows will clean up using plastic polish on an orbital, not a fast rotary wheel.
Do you have the wiper? they are very handy in winter..

Hairtrigger 04-11-2021 07:38 AM

The cab can be very awkward when working around a wooded area

Cub Cadet 123 04-11-2021 10:19 AM

If you are mowing, then your visibility will be improved without the cab. It will also allow you to look around as you mow for potential hazards that may lead to safety of others, other people's property and your own equipment. It will also allow you to keep that cab in better shape, and it already appears to be in really nice shape!

BTW: Nice job on revitalizing your 782. It is a remarkable improvement.

Cub Cadet 123

finsruskw 04-11-2021 10:40 AM

Go ahead and scratch the paint all up taking it off and putting it on.
Your call....
You are the one that will have to decide that, what I or anyone else thinks does not matter!!:bigeyes:

twoton 04-11-2021 05:38 PM

i don't know if you should take the cab off or not but the tractor looks great. Nice job! :ThumbsUp:

Getter-Done 04-11-2021 10:43 PM

If you have a Spot to store it ,
That is not in the way,
You need to pull that thing off.
And use 303 protectant on that canvas

Just my 2 Cents:bigthink:

Nice Cab!!!




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poellot 04-15-2021 08:03 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Any recommendations for where to get the decals made? I have a place somewhat locally that might be able to. But it would be easier to just email the pics and measurements of my old decals and have them shipped.

poellot 04-15-2021 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twoton (Post 507912)
i don't know if you should take the cab off or not but the tractor looks great. Nice job! :ThumbsUp:

Thank you, i spent a lot of hours. Every bolt is new grade 8. Every pin was replaced or welded and filed back to proper size.
I went through the engine. It was an m18 replacement in it that seemed pretty low hours by the condition of the pistons and cylinders. But just enough hours that is did not get the valve job at the recommended 500 and got ran past that and burned a valve.
Luckily i found some nos parts to replace them and it is a great engine now.
My main goal was not to make it look good, it was to stop the rust. Remove it and protect the metal. But yes second was making it look nice. I now have a machine that should last as long as i live.

poellot 04-15-2021 09:11 PM

8 Attachment(s)
Because my first goal was making a good working machine. Not keeping it original. I added power steering. I am 6'2" so i raised the steering wheel a little from factory. I almost went to much. I didnt have the cab yet when i did it. The window just barely clears when hinged back.
I used a stainless exhaust pipe for the column.
I wanted an oil pressure gauge. I found one with the ih logo that was nos. I also found an ampmeter with the numbers and ih logo. Also nos. Added a good quality hour meter.
100 percent new wiring. I used closslinked wire. All white. And self laminating labels at the end of every wire so to make for easy fixing in 30 years. I added extra lights under the floorboards. Added wires for lights at the rear.
I also added a 4 pin round trailer plug. 1 is ground. 2 is lights. 3 is power. 4 is voltage regulated ground through a speed controller. The knob is in the position where a 982 had the rear pto switch. So i can run an electric spreader.
The fuel shutoff is now dash mounted.
Cigarette lighter and phone charger on the little cover infront of the seat.
I plan to add lights on the cab.
When its hot out ill be mowing at after the sun goes down. The led lights i used are already bright and dont take to much power.

poellot 04-15-2021 09:15 PM

This is not an ih built. It is a ccc aluminum rear machine. But i like the looks of the ih logo in the grill so i just added it on. I couldn't see a reason not to. I used brass screws to hold the headlights.
I think thats about all. Lol. Yes it was a lot. But worth it. I have already restored the 44a deck. I also have a 44c. Snow plow and haban thrower that will get restoration in the next few years before the rust takes them.

poellot 04-15-2021 09:33 PM

Oh one last thing. I added a dpdt button on the brake so i could wire the safety like the newer machines so it will no longer drive by itself. I must lock the brake to get off the seat.
Brake must be down to crank.
So you need the normal open contacts for that. Then close with the brake pressed to allow the starter to crank.

For the shutdown, because it has the m18, it had the ignition switch changed for the magneto shutdown. So i used a relay.
Wire the relay contacts, common to ground. Normally open to the kill wire.
Then the seat switch gets a Normally closed switch. Ground one side. The other side goes to the second set on the dpdt brake switch.
With the wire from the seat going to the brake you need the Normally closed contacts. Take that to the relay coil. The other relay coil gets 12v keyed from the fuse.
This makes you have the brake or seat or both pressed to run. If you do not lock the brake and get off. It completes ground from the seat switch to the brake switch to the relay, that kills the engine using low current switches without needing to worry about the magneto killing the contacts so fast.
If you used high current switches then you would probably be fine without a relay. But i only found low current options for one that was dpdt and mounted with no physical modification.

My knee gets very close to the hydro lever getting on and off. So i really wanted this to prevent me from a big mishap
I did not use the original reverse switch that shuts off the pto. I look behind me before backing up.

Getter-Done 04-16-2021 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by poellot (Post 508069)
Any recommendations for where to get the decals made? I have a place somewhat locally that might be able to. But it would be easier to just email the pics and measurements of my old decals and have them shipped.

Some Awning and Sign places make decals also.

She is working on a project for me now.

Here is a link.

Link:https://www.awningsplusllc.com/resid...9893-g2013169-



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