800 clutch driver help..
 

OK, finally got around to the clutch on this machine..2 questions..the clutch driver has what's left of a bearing in it..not sure what to buy..the manual said from #612808 and above use IH-126205-C1(pilot hub assembly, bushing?)..mine is #575,XXX..also , I believe there should be a teaser spring in there(but, it's missing)..I don't think this has ever been apart..is it possible for the teaser spring to NOT be included?..a few pics ..let me know if more are needed...thanks

Well, first you need to take it the rest of the way apart. You'll need a new bearing, teaser spring (it's in there, it'll be obvious when you finish taking it apart), main spring, and possibly a driveshaft. You'll also want to get a new friction disc, and probably a pilot bushing for the clutch driver.

Thanks Matt..is that the correct # for the bushing??

Uhh...I'm not sure...I've never had a gear drive QL...it probably is, but if you could post a pic of the drive cup on the motor, that'd help.

Matt..hot off the press..does this help?..

I still don't know...hopefully, someone with a QL gear drive will chime in...

You will also want to get your clutch plates resurfaced, they get cupped over time and only contact a small area of the clutch plate. Lay a straight edge of them and you will see.

I am not sure on the # of the clutch driver bushing either, that is different than a nf or wf clutch driver for sure though.


Go to Brian Millers site and go to the clutch section. He has it explained very will with some pictures also. Here is a link.

http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/index.htm




Randy

The S/N range of the 800 did not go above the 612808 that requires the hub assembly with the pilot bearing, but the 1000 and 1200 which uses the same parts did. IF your clutch drive disc does not have any cracks in it and is good to use, then you can use item # 21 in the parts manual, P/N 126 361 C1, Bushing, ball, to replace the bearing in your disc. If the drive disc is cracked or broken, then you will have to order the hub assembly because the current replacement disc do not have the bearing in them and the hub has to be used. The teaser spring should be inside the collar in front of the throwout bearing.....and is probably broken and needs to be replaced anyway. If you have to replace the drive disc, you want to sit down before asking the price..

No millers performance links on OCC

wow, an old old thread here. I got a computer bug by going to that Miller site, it killed an ancient Windows '98 PC(lol) at work. A guy had linked to it and I clicked it, was a page talking about carbs on Kohlers. It took over the pc, had cyrillic words etc.-it was a Trojan or worm from Russia I guess. Go there at your own risk.

Ya but what I said is for other reasons

Most of us know the reason, can you tell me the reason you decided to post in a 5yr old thread?

I'm curious too. Been a few dead threads resurrected recently. :bigthink:

I know, Nick. I just don't see any reason to bring up that name ever on this site. Especially since he already knows.

For some reason CubCadet129 seems to be obsessed with digging through every old thread on the site and then commenting on them. He's a young newbie and feels that by posting he will make an impact is my guess, I don't know but I wish he'd stick to the recent stuff. :beatdeadhorse:

Oh, that's who I think it is?

Yes, stay away from him and his site.:TwoCents:

Pretty sure we all dug around in old threads when we first got here, many of us probably commented on a couple of them too. I probably did. It's a common new guy thing.

Thanks for the heads up on bad links, I don't dig out old stuff unless someone links to it and I don't remember whatever they are talking about. I am a curious son of a gun and will click a link before thinking at times. I am getting better though, but this Cub stuff makes the brain loose control sometimes, like other stuff did at 16!!